1844 replies to this topic

[domdee]

I can see you starting a craze with these buttons! Very smart

[Petrol]

How LNG has it taken to get to this stage

 

15 Months so far

 

Those latches are a bloody good idea, shame they don't make a slightly smaller version.

 

Are you looking at the right ones? These are what I bought

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I can see you starting a craze with these buttons! Very smart

 

Not cheap but they are made from billet alloy. I also looked at aero catches but they looked a bit big

 

 

 

 

 

The seams between the scuttle and front wings were left open from the factory. If you just fill the gap, even with flexible seam sealer the paint will crack. The problem is the wing moves but the scuttle doesn’t. I wanted to fill the seam as I think it looks neater and more importantly, will help keep the rust at bay. Tack welding the wing lip to the scuttle will prevent the movement and allow the seam to be filled.

 

Shell is upside down in the pic

 

 

 

 

Pete

 

 

 

 

[freshairmini]

This project thread really is brilliant. Basically a guide on how to restore your mini RIGHT!

[Petrol]

Glad you like it freshairmini. That’s what forums are for, sharing information and techniques. This is my first full on shell rebuild but now that the fabrication is more or less done, I’m a bit more in my comfort zone.

It’s funny how things change though. The plan was to rebuild it more or less stock with Mika to teach him. He’s now in Honda S2000 land (don’t blame him for one second) so it’s down to me to build something….. I have decided to build what I consider “the best of Mini” What I mean by that is, I will be using what I consider the “best parts” Mini’s were built from over the years, for example –

Steering column on the MPI has proper bearings
MPI heater box is the lightest and has 2 speeds, it also has a higher heat output
MPI indicator stalk is better and also includes the headlight switch
Wiring will be simple without all the ECU / alarm nonsense. Airbag and seatbelt tensioners will also be ditched.
Engine will have a pre verto cluch – lighter

Weight is everything so with the combination of the MPI shell (thinner steel and more rigid than previous models) Sunroof gone that weighed loads, 10” lightweight wheels and less unsprung weight with alloy 4 pots and Minifins, it should be an interesting combo.  If I get the gearing right, it might pick it's feet up a bit.

Back to the shell, bonnet drilled for the pins
 

 

Hinge brackets removed from the bonnet and holes cut to gain access to the back of the pins

 

 

Made these up for the pins, note the fold to increase rigidity

 

 

Rivnuts for the headlight bowls

 

 

 

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ben_O]

Looking good my friend!

[phil hill]

Hi Pete

 

Did you have to re-shape the wing cut-outs to allow you to use the rivnuts for the headlamp buckets ??  I've checked mine out and it looks like some of the bucket holes in the retainer ring will foul the cut-outs on the main wing front.  

 

Oh and these are Heritage wings too............

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Phil.

[Petrol]

Cheers Ben.

 

Hi Phil, Yes, I cut the wings out using this rotary file which left the retaining rings intact

 

 

 

 

Pete

[freshairmini]

Question about the rivnuts, do you not get problems with reactions between the contact of the two dissimilar metals because the rivnuts are ali and the body steel?

[Petrol]

I used zinc plated mild steel rivnuts to prevent any problems. I also painted them with zinc primer and riveted them in wet.

There's a product called Duralac which is used in the marine industry. It's a jointing compound which prevents electrolytic corrosion between dissimilar metals. It's Ideal for stainless bolts into mild steel / steel bolts into alloy. Another alternative is to use an anti corrosion wax like Dynax UC which is a clear film wax.

 

Hope that helps

Pete

[phil hill]

Cheers Ben.

 

Hi Phil, Yes, I cut the wings out using this rotary file which left the retaining rings intact

 

 

Pete

Ok.  As mine is already painted I may have to resort to old-fashioned rivets then, much to my dismay !!

 

Thanks Pete.

 

Phil.

[Brams96]

Pete - Looking good, as usual ;) What rivnut gun are you using? I'm looking to get one but don't want to waste money on one that's not going to last. I found THIS one on ebay, do you think it's ok?

[phil hill]

Pete - Looking good, as usual ;) What rivnut gun are you using? I'm looking to get one but don't want to waste money on one that's not going to last. I found THIS one on ebay, do you think it's ok?

Sorry to hijack, but that looks like the one I have.  It's ok, the 6mm mandrel I have is a bit worn but still works.  It's a lot like a rivet setting gun to operate, you need a reasonably strong grip to get the rivnuts to set, specially in the larger sizes and if using stainless rivnuts, and it's important to keep the gun square to the metal.

 

Phil.

[Brams96]

Cheers Phil, has yours lasted a long time?

[phil hill]

On and off use for about 6 years, so yep not too bad.

 

Phil.

[Petrol]

Phil, why not use stainless bolts and stainless nyloc nuts for the headlight bowls? Better than rivets.

 

I bought a rivnut gun similar to the one you linked to Brams96....

 

 

 

I'm not saying it's the same brand but mine didn't last long. As you can see in this pic the mechanism burred over

 

 

I have since bought one of these and the build quality is much better

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item461a45c29e

 

 

Pete