1844 replies to this topic

[Carvell]

I'm thinking about just moving the seats in towards the tunnel and back to make sure they don't foul the bins. The steering wheel in my mpi is already a bit offset towards the tunnel and only the handbrake would get in the way but I think that should be ok with the seat moved back. My only concern is how far back I could go before I feel the seat belt is in the wrong place. Just food for thought.

[Petrol]

I used Bilt Hamber Electrox primer on the shell

It cost £900 from Huddersfield spares. The quality can be seen in the pics which isn’t great. A little more attention to detail and it would be 100%.
 

 

 

Door cards need the vinyl cutting

 

 

Finish isn't very good, I could have done better

 

 

 

 

to be honest, I'm tempted to ring Cobra and ask them why the finish is a bit iffy

 

The subframes are terrible so I’m going to remanufacture them. I don't think these are a Cobra product though.

 

Started on the front

 

 

 

Every issue has been mentioned, moving the seats nearer the tunnel reduces handbrake clearance

 

 

Then there’s the position of the seatbelt on the B post. I’m going to have a word with a friend and ask if he can planish the companion bins to give a bit more clearance. I think it’s doable but it’s really tight to get them to fit just right. I did think about buying some second hand Recaro’s and having them re trimmed but the padding and seat diaphragms are often worn. I had some roll top Recaro type seats out of a MK2 RS in my 73’ Mini and they fitted without fouling the companion bins. These seats looked like the nearest to them.

This wasn’t in the original script
 

 

Guess it’s a slippery slope from here and since I’m going for 10” wheels the final drive will have to be changed. Maybe buying a Sportspack was the wrong decision as it’s going to end up a “proper Petrol Special”

 

 

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

 

[myredmini]

Is it the 1k aerosol stuff ? I take it you used 2k over it with no issue ?

 

Cheers

[Petrol]

I have used 3 primers on the shell -

 

On new panels I used 2K etch (no rust)

On areas to be welded I used Bilt Hamber weld through primer

Everything else was primed with the 1K zinc. I have never had a problem with 2K over Electrox zinc primer.

 

Bit more info - Any zinc primer, whilst great at stopping rust coming back is pretty soft. Using it on outer panels is OK but you run the risk of stone chips. A 2K etch is a better product for this providing it's rust free. 2K paint over zinc will offer a good mechanical barrier but a 2K etch primer followed by 2K colour is better. As far as underneath goes, zinc is fine if you intend to use Shutz over it. This will offer adequate protection.

 

For any zinc primer to work properly, you need a good electrical connection, might sound daft but when you get 2 dissimilar metals together (steel and zinc) it creates a tiny electrical charge. This causes the zinc to sacrifice itself and prevents the steel rusting. Using a rust converter is not recommended as it acts as an electrical insulator reducing the effectiveness of the zinc.

 

Hope that helps, any more Q's just ask

 

Pete

[Artstu]

If you'd said 'which seats would you recommend?' I'd always advise buying OE seats, IMO all the aftermarket seats are rubbish in comparison. Something from an Audi or Mercedes perhaps, but too late now, and I suppose not the look you're after.

 

Perhaps a bit big http://www.ebay.co.u...=p2047675.l2557

 

I guess the 2.75 diff will be much better suited to the 10" wheels and suit what you want from the car.

[Petrol]

If you'd said 'which seats would you recommend?' I'd always advise buying OE seats, IMO all the aftermarket seats are rubbish in comparison. Something from an Audi or Mercedes perhaps, but too late now, and I suppose not the look you're after.

 

Perhaps a bit big http://www.ebay.co.u...=p2047675.l2557

 

I guess the 2.75 diff will be much better suited to the 10" wheels and suit what you want from the car.

 

 

I looked long and hard before buying this interior. I appreciate that the build quality of OE seats is superior but more often than not, so is the weight especially with prestige marques. I'm trying to shed as much weight as I can in the goal of building a refined go kart. I also wanted the whole interior to match.

 

Jase, I saw your thread about replacement seats but most OE seats won't go far enough back for me -  It's tight inside a Mini and not many seats will clear the companion bins to offer leg room for the taller driver.

 

This is where I'm at

 

NS seat goes to the back of the X member

 

 

 

 

 

Clears companion bin.... just

 

 

Handbrake access looks like it's OK

 

 

It's tight but think I can sort it

 

Pete

Edited by Petrol, 09 January 2014 - 10:59 PM.

[Ben_O]

Those seats look amazing Pete!

 

I know what you are saying about the quality of the seats and door cards, but i have found that alot of Mini parts original or other are of a quality that can be improved on. I just think it's disgusting what they charge. You should expect better for all that money.

 

Mind you, once they have been petrolised they will be the best damn fitting seats in any Mini!

 

Cheers

 

Ben

[Petrol]

I'm doing my best Ben The Vinyl might tighten with heat but will sort that when the interior is fitted.

 

Sub goes under the NS seat

 

 

I wanted to use something a bit better than hardboard for the speaker pods

 

 

Cut a sheet of foam filled plastic to size

 

 

Bolted it on

 

 

 

Then using a 3KW fan heater, warmed the sheet until it was flexible and bent it to fit

 

 

Welded a bracket on the flitch panel to support the bottom

 

 

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

[Petrol]

Made a new centre console using an old one as a template

 

 

Modded it to give more room around the clutch and to allow hot air into the footwell

 

 

Improved fit around the pipes

 

 

 

[Petrol]

Finished the seat subframes this weekend. Cut off the tilt mechanism

 

 

Since I have lowered and adjusted the angle of the seats, the rear support bar was a bit out

 

 

Sorted this by bending the bar

 

 

 

Rivnuts in the back of the X Member

 

 

Frames in place and the adjustment should accommodate most drivers. The seats are quite a bit lower to help with the C of G

 

 

 

 

 

I'm trying to drill every hole before the shell is painted. Thinking of everything is a tall order though

 

20mm hole in the OS companion bin for the line audio / speaker cables (amp is in the boot)

 

 

Holes drilled for the spit blanking plate

 

 

That was my weekend

 

 

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

[chrishil1]

Hi Pete. Just a word of warning. I've seen after market seat brackets like that damaged the rear floor over a period of time. Leaving the floor bowed. Especially on heavier seats. One of the reasons I try to avoid after market seats. Maybe worth welding a bar across the tunnel to the inner sill on both sides? And fabricate your seats to sit on them? Just an idea. Looking good though. Chris

Edited by chrishil1, 19 January 2014 - 11:38 PM.

[Petrol]

Hi Chris, thanks for the heads up. A friend of mine is a stress analyst in the aerospace industry, I'll get him to have a look at it

 

Hinges have been re manufactured and are considerably better. Just to weld the bolts in and cut the heads off

 

 

Stainless bolt for the hinge pin

 

 

Tapped into the bottom.

 

 

Finish in the hinge is pretty good resulting in a longer life . I reamed this very tight then sanded the pin down in a pedestal drill to suit

 

 

Sanded a flat on the pin to create a void. This will enable the hinge to be greased.

 

 

Pin size comparason

 

 

 

And the studs

 

 

 

 

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

 

[evansisgreat]

This is a great bit of advice. I was gonna chuck my hinges because they sheared and buy new ones; but it makes much more sense to re-manufacture and improve my current ones. Mini 2.0

[Marco1972]

Great work on the hinges Pete

I'd get a patent on them ASAP. great idea


Mark

[hd_andy]

Hi Pete,

 

Really amazing work.  Seriously impressive, like a few other people, I have only just finished reading the whole thread.  

 

Very inspiring and thanks a lot for putting the time and effort in to share your work.

 

At the risk of making you repeat yourself I just have a query on the use of zinc primer

On new panels I used 2K etch (no rust)

On areas to be welded I used Bilt Hamber weld through primer

Everything else was primed with the 1K zinc. I have never had a problem with 2K over Electrox zinc primer.

 

 

How is it best to apply the zinc primer - presumably directly to bare metal, but does it key ok to bare metal, you don't see the need for etch primer?

 

Is the zinc primer as effective on top of old paint or on top of etch primer?

 

Thanks a lot, and I look forward to more updates

 

Andy