1844 replies to this topic

[Petrol]

I’ve Lots do before the final paint job

 

I want to make some better brackets to achieve the best possible fit of the dashboard. I might end up welding them to the bulkhead so this has to be done before the scuttle is fitted. I would also like to replace the heater control –

 

 

I’m hoping to use something small so I can fit it in the dash. The heat controller from a Honda S2000 looks like it would fit the bill but I assume it’s electrically controlled so I would need the associated heater valve. I'm reasonably proficient wiring this lot up and if anyone has any suggestions as to what might fit the bill, I would appreciate your help.
 

Thanks

 

Pete
 

Edited by Petrol, 17 December 2013 - 11:42 PM.

[Petrol]

New brackets for the dash, just need to tidy them up

 

 

 

Bolted through the bulkhead

 

 

Stainless cap screws through the front. I’ve made the dash a tight fit against the top and lower rails, I can shim it out with washers if required during the final build

 

 

 

Found this for the heater control, need to know the dimensions of it though

 

 

Pete

 

 

 

[evansisgreat]

Maybe one of these will work?

 

http://www.carbuilde...eater-valve-kit

 

http://www.carbuilde...alve-controller

 

Wildcard?

 

http://www.carbuilde...eater-valve-kit

[Petrol]

Maybe one of these will work?

 

http://www.carbuilde...eater-valve-kit

 

http://www.carbuilde...alve-controller

 

Wildcard?

 

http://www.carbuilde...eater-valve-kit

 

I like the look of the wildcard slider jobbie. This would fit very nicely in the center console just below the heater diverter lever. Thanks very much for the linkys

 

Started on the scuttle which is taking some time to get the shut line tight along the bonnet. It also looks like the profile on the MPI A pillar is slightly different to the replacement Heritage panel which will take some fettling. This is where I'm up to

 

 

 

Decided to de badge it

 

 

I also want the bonnet to be removable and am thinking of fitting some Aero Catch bonnet pins to the back, looks like I will have to chop the bonnet frame to fit them. I guess this build is going the whole 9 yards now

[Petrol]

Had to tweak the scuttle like this to improve the fit against the bonnet

 

 

Gap is much better now, sorry pic isn't too good

 

 

NS door trial fit

 

 

Shut line is pretty tight considering it's not had a welding rod down it

 

 

Ran into a problem with the hinges though. After removing the rust, there's not much left on the threads and you can see how loose the nut is

 

 

I only nipped em up and the threads sheared Gonna get some new ones

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[domdee]

nice bit of 'tweaking' there haha. improvisation at its best!

 

are you going to leave the door gap?

[hennasxi]

This thread is totally inspiring for us MPi owners (and all!!).   On the hinges front, I have just bought some W&P aftermarket ones, and they seem very loose on the pin, unlike the originals which you can hardly bend.   Not sure about them yet - intend to fit them over the next couple of weeks.  Can you still get OEM hinges anywhere new?

[Archived4]

This thread went the whole 9 yards when it started. Now it's walking the whole 500 miles!

Edited by Smiler258, 20 December 2013 - 09:00 AM.

[Marco1972]

Hi Pete

You can get the replacement bolts from smithys bits in stainless steel save you replacing the whole hinge

Keep up the excellent work.

[Petrol]

nice bit of 'tweaking' there haha. improvisation at its best!

 

are you going to leave the door gap?

 

No, I really need to even it up but need to sort the hinges out first

This thread is totally inspiring for us MPi owners (and all!!).   On the hinges front, I have just bought some W&P aftermarket ones, and they seem very loose on the pin, unlike the originals which you can hardly bend.   Not sure about them yet - intend to fit them over the next couple of weeks.  Can you still get OEM hinges anywhere new?

 

Minisport sell OEM hinges but at £160 a set it's rip off money. I looked at a set of non genuine ones but the quality was more like something from a garden gate! I've decided to re-manufacture the hinges I have...

There are 2 problems with the hinges, the studs that go through the flitch panel aren't big enough and the roll / cellock pins  cause the hinge itself to corrode, probably due lack of lubrication. To address these problem's, I'm planning on replacing the roll pins with 8mm stainless bolts. The hinge will be reamed out to suit the bolt and also tapped to stop it falling out.

 

 

I have ordered some HT bolts to replace the studs, the plan is to tap the hinges to ensure correct location then weld them in. I need to find someone to do the welding though. I have 2 sets of hinges and am planning to do both sets.

 

 

 

This thread went the whole 9 yards when it started. Now it's walking the whole 500 miles!

 

LOL yeah but the budget seems to have gone up 500%

 

Hi Pete

You can get the replacement bolts from smithys bits in stainless steel save you replacing the whole hinge

Keep up the excellent work.

 

Hi Marco,

 

The bolts are the ones that fit into the door. Smiffy's stuff is top notch, I've bought a few bit's from him and will be buying a lot more.

 

With the doors on the back burner for now, it's back to the scuttle. 20mm hole drilled in the bulkhead 

 

 

This will make it easier to get some paint / box section wax inside of the closing panel

 

 

 

It's possible to gain access over the top of the inner wing but this will make things a whole lot easier. The hole will be plugged with a blind grommet.

 

Pete

 

[Archived1]

Great Idea with the hinges!

 

Dont mind if I steal "borrow" that Idea so you?

Edited by Elf is a mini, 24 December 2013 - 04:17 PM.

[Petrol]

Great Idea with the hinges!

 

Dont mind if I steal "borrow" that Idea so you?

Not at all, that's what forums are for, sharing info

 

These are the bolts for the hinge pins

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300943418375

 

These for the studs

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1439.l2649

 

Just waiting for this reamer to arrive

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1439.l2649

 

A neighbor who has a lot of experience at this kind of work has offered to give me lift. I was thinking of using a pedestal drill to align everything but he reckons he can do it with a pistol drill I'll get some pics up of the progress.

 

Merry Xmas everyone

All the best

 

Pete

[Archived1]

thanks pete 

[dfraser]

Hi Pete, I feel compelled to respond to your thread. Just read most of it over the last couple of days... Awesome level of detail and a kick up the backside to those who might be tempted to settle for 'that'll do'!  I've just restarted working on my Brother's 1998 MPi after stalling it due to work priorities, and your detail and advice will undoubtedly influence my project.  I have a minted 99 MPi which has only seen water for washing!  An excellent reference point and inspiration.

Thanks for your openness and sharing of your knowledge - none of us who consider ourselves experienced should be closed to learning from others.

Will follow your progress with added interest!

David

[Petrol]

Hi David, thanks for your response. I'm trying to do it once and do it right. I would love to see some some pics of your MPI so post em up I like things that are minted

 

I've not been sat on my arse over Xmas, got the floor more or less finished and have welded in the scuttle closing panels

 

 

 

Also done quite a few trial fits just to make sure everything is right. This is one example... The MPI boot floor has a stud to support the injection pipes. Since this was missing on the replacement I bought, I drilled the floor to add a bolt

 

 

I took advantage of the sales and have spent quite a bit on new stuff including Minifins, New radiator, all new panel seals, chrome outer door finishers, complete bearing kit for the gearbox, Centre bearing strap etc etc. Long way to go but progress is good

 

Happy New Year everyone!

 

Pete

Edited by Petrol, 02 January 2014 - 12:06 AM.