1844 replies to this topic

[myredmini]

Looking good! Base coat and clear is fairly straight forward to use. The tip with the base coat is to apply it very lightly, you dont want any real build in any single coat, when it is applied and wet it can look patchy, this will correct as it dries. The layers need to build up gradually. This must be fully dry prior to Clear. Most can be left about 8 hours and still have their adhesion properties but any longer you risk the dreaded lacquer peel! You can also nib any small bits out of the basecoat with a very fine wet and dry paper (800-1200) and tack it off prior to clear. The lacquer you need to put on really nice and wet so it will flow on the panel and lay as flat as possible giving a good gun finish reducing the flatting and polishing required. Looking at this project i'm sure you will be just fine with your skills. Also on basecoats solvent basecoat is better to work with than water based.

 

[Petrol]

Thanks Noah, Think I'm going to fit 5X10's with Mini Special arches. I had this setup on my Mini many years ago and didn't have any problems with that. I will also fit a pre MPI rack to increase the lock but will have to reduce the brake disk size. Looks like Minisport 7.9" vented should do the trick with 4 pot alloy calipers. That lot should reduce the unsprung weight a bit.

 

Might look a bit like this

 

 

 

Thanks for taking the time to post that info up myredmini. It's answered all the questions I had about spraying base coat and clear and I'm very grateful

 

 

Funny how things change, the plan was to keep it fairly original to keep insurance premiums down. I can't add Mika onto the insurance until he's 25 so it gives me free reign to build it with as many mods as I think fit. Time maybe to rethink how this build is going

 

 

Pete

[Petrol]

Now I have a bit more experience with the angle grinder, thought I would grind the remainder of the roof skin off. I prepped the roof surround and poured zinc primer into the seam

 

 

Then using a grinding disk, "thinned" the metal to get to this. Pic is from the top of the shell

 

 

Then peeled it back like a tin of corned beef with wire cutters. Note the masking tape to prevent swarf getting into the seam

 

 

What's left is the continous weld

 

 

 

Here you can see where I ground out the weld

 

 

At the rate I'm going, it's going to take about 8-10 hours to sort this. It's also a right PITA to do so the plan is to do a bit every day.

 

Thanks for looking

Pete

 

 

 

 

[Ben_O]

Rather you than me Pete! I think that's the sort of job i would do half hour at a time, probably days apart aswell!!!

looking good though!

 

Ben

[Petrol]

Rather you than me Pete! I think that's the sort of job i would do half hour at a time, probably days apart aswell!!!

looking good though!

 

Ben

 

That’s the best way Ben but I wanted to get it done and all the grinding dust cleaned up - it made a right bloody mess! Once I got cracking and got a feel for the grinding depth it was pretty easy



Used this tool to peel the old skin back



It’s easy to do a half arsed job of this but I wanted to completely remove the old skin. This will allow the new skin to fit properly and avoid distortion. Managed to peel it all off

 

This left the roll welds just proud



Dressed them up and the jobs a guddun



Glad that lot is out of the way

Pete
 

[rally515]

So NOW its rust free ?  , su many places it hides, no wonder mins rust soo much!!

[Petrol]

So NOW its rust free ?

 

I’ve done the best I can having split most of the seams and replaced loads of panels. I haven’t removed the engine steady bracket from the bulkhead X member nor did I remove the steering rack bracket. I couldn’t see any signs of rust behind them but never say never eh? The car will be stored in a centrally heated insulated garage so it’s unlikely to rot away.

I want to spray zinc primer down the A, B & C pillars before I fit the outer sills and roof skin, this will enable enable easy access,

 

. I also plan to rotate the shell on the spit to ensure proper coverage into the seams. I need to fit the scuttle first though to get some paint into here
 

 

To make sure everything aligns properly, I need to trial fit the wings against the scuttle, to fit the wings I need a front panel so I bought a complete front end today. Yep I’m running out of room with all these panels but that’s the way it goes. I have tacked on the upper dash rail for now, it’s another panel out of the way and fitting the scuttle should be less of a faff

 

 

Pete

[Ben_O]

That tool you used to peel the skin remains away with Is perfect for that job. I use one exactly the same all the time for exactly the same purpose!

 

Really getting there now!

 

Ben

[Petrol]

That tool you used to peel the skin remains away with Is perfect for that job. I use one exactly the same all the time for exactly the same purpose!

 

Really getting there now!

 

Ben

I’ve had that tool about 20 years and it’s been invaluable on this build. I bought it for crimping these pipe clips on an Opel Ascona 400

 

 

I wanted to fill in the LHD wiper holes in the scuttle, rather than run the risk of buckling it by welding, decided to use this stuff



Scuffed the back up



Then applied the chopped matting fibreglass

 

Sanded the top so it's not quite flush



I’ve done this before on a tailgate when I replaced a spoiler and had to fill in the original holes. It’s lasted 7 years without any problems so on a fixed panel like this, I’m confident it will be OK

Pete
 

[Nossedout]

goodluck with the build! i am truly left in awe with the quality of the work! 

[Petrol]

goodluck with the build! i am truly left in awe with the quality of the work! 

Thanks for the kind words Nossedout but everything so far has been relatively straightforward. Whilst the rust has now gone, it’s time to focus on panel fit and finish. I have fitted panels before but never done a full on shell refurb like this. Doubts of shell straightness have been raised by a few of my friends as it’s had so many panels fitted but so far I can’t see a problem.

Panel fit is another issue though - I can’t cheat and run a welding rod down the door skin to close the gap – the doors are finished and all the seams are full of zinc to prevent rust. It’s going to be a challenge to get the front end sorted and all the shut lines right.

Update on progress so far, I opened the seams on the B pillar to get rid of the rust



After a good shotblasting, they were zinc sprayed and closed

 

Planished back using a brass block



Trial fitted the front end tonight and it looks OK though I could do with some more mole grips!



I’m going for subtle mods like removing these tow eyes



With something like this



Hopefully this will be a theme that runs through the whole car.

Pete
 

[Petrol]

Doubts of shell straightness have been raised by a few of my friends as it’s had so many panels fitted but so far I can’t see a problem.

 

 

 

Thought I better check it, the only dimensions I could find were these



I levelled the shell using the floor X member as a reference with a decent quality (Stabila) spirit level. I then checked the front X member across the bulkhead and they were exactly the same. Both of these are original. I then checked for level across the rear arches which have both been replaced, again they were true as was across the roof frame at various points. I also made diagonal measurements from the X member to heel board / various points on the shell and its within about 2mm. I’m sure it’s as good as it gets so any concerns about shell straightness were unjustified.

I really need to get my act together and fit all of the panels; outer sills / scuttle / weld in the dash top rail are next but I took the easy option and lashed some paint on the rear ¼ panels. I don’t want any ripples or blemishes where the panels have been welded in. Had a bit of buckling where the rear ¼ wraps around the B pillar



After a good flatting back it’s easy to see the low points

Same where it’s joined across the C pillar



As you can see, I put that much paint on it was just about running, building up minor imperfections with 2K paint then flatting back is better than using filler IMO

Just to add, this is the finish on a Magnum front panel and will need quite a bit of prep work before it’s fitted.



Pete
 

[domdee]

I think this is a good technique!!!!^^^


 

What a bag of S@#T That looks^^^ I bet it wasnt cheap either

[Petrol]

 

What a bag of S@#T That looks^^^ I bet it wasnt cheap either

 

IIRC the complete front end was £160. To be honest the quality of some of the Heritage panels I bought isn't much better. The scuttle probably being the worst but I guess the press has had a thrashing  Looks to me like it's been repaired and this is reflected in the quality of the pressing. There's also some pretty bad burrs and even rust under the e-coat. I have a smiley for what I think of Heritage panels but best not post it up

 

The bottom line is nothing seems to fit straight on. I bought this car because it was pretty much unmolested. It's had a door skin and some plates on the outer sills but that's it. The panel fit was poor but I guess that's just Mini's. I just hope I can get the new grille & surround to fit better than when I bought it

 

 

Put some rivnuts in for the mirror and sun visors

 

 

Clamps from ebay, cheap and cheerful but good enough to clamp panels together

 

 

Sportspack arches are being replaced with smaller ones, thanks to Phil for these. The questions is, using a 5" X 10" rim and a 165/70 tyre, will I be able to fill these smaller arches like this without bump steer / tramlining? Pic is using a 13" rim as it's all I have at the moment.

 

 

 

Thanks for looking

 

Pete

[Noah]

It all depends on the wheel, for example a 5x10 'exacton' mini special wheel will do, as they were designed to be run on cars with drum brakes.