1844 replies to this topic

[Petrol]

Cut all of the pipe support tabs off, I suspected there might be rust behind. I wasn't disappointed

 

 

Drilled the holes for the new brake pipe brackets and started to tidy up a couple of areas on the floor before it's stonechipped. One thing led to another and it's turned into a full on prep job

 

 

I don't know how much stonechip fills in the way of imperfections but if it's right before it's sprayed on, it should be OK

 

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Dickyp]

Very nice, liking this project a lot. I want back into Mini ownership for a "pet" but the condition of yours really is putting me off!!

[Petrol]

The later models are worse for rust. At least with all the seams split and a full on shell resto it should last for a while.

 

 

You say you are going to schultz the unerside? Why not Use UPOL Gravtex stone chip and paint gloss over the top? Heard schultz breaks down over a few years causing moisture ingress etc.

 

 

 

Good idea though it might be worth a mention that not all stone chip is the same.... I have had disappointing results from Gravitex over the years, poor adhesion and cracking / flaking to name just a couple. You can't over paint over any type of schutz though. For example 3M (the best by far) do an 08861 which is an asphalt based product but cannot be over painted. It works out at about a fiver a tin and is widely available on ebay.

 

This is what you can over paint though

 

 

 

At £13 a tin, it ain't cheap but it's the best stuff. I bought 3L from their website - 3M direct. I also bought a couple more tubes of 3M seam sealer. I have tried em all Sika flex, Tiger seal etc but the 3M stuff is the best I have used. Whilst on the subject of best, once the shell is sprayed in Tahiti blue metallic basecoat, I will be using Max Meyer 2K clearcoat. It's important to use a quality clearcoat as it has UV inhibitors to prevent the basecoat from discolouring

 

 

.

 

[Dickyp]

Have you guys looked at the Teroson stuff? I used to work for them and they have supplied the cavity wax, underbody stone guard and seam sealer to VW group for decades. Good range but I guess you would think I'd say that!!

They also a phosphate wipe so you can do localised panel prep, these are used for when panels are repaired and go through ecoat.

Keep it up as you are tempting me further to make a purchase!!!

[myredmini]

I cant say I have used the 3m stonechip. Only gravitex. I am yet to buy stonechip for my mini so interested to see how this stuff lies. I have never personally had issues with adhesion but time will tell on that I suppose. Keep up the hard work.

[Petrol]

Have you guys looked at the Teroson stuff? I used to work for them and they have supplied the cavity wax, underbody stone guard and seam sealer to VW group for decades. Good range but I guess you would think I'd say that!!

They also a phosphate wipe so you can do localised panel prep, these are used for when panels are repaired and go through ecoat.

Keep it up as you are tempting me further to make a purchase!!!

 

Thanks Dickyp, I have never heard of the Teroson stuff but have had a look into it. Part of the Loctite group, a name that we are all familiar with. It looks like good stuff and if VW are using it, it will be a top notch product. Looking at this MPI shell, it seems to me that there are 2 main reasons why it's so bad - Lack of protection inside of the seams and a severe lack of coating underneath. By filling all of the seams with zinc, proper seam sealing and spraying the whole shell in 2K paint before I even start with stonechip / box section wax, it should last. I guess only time will tell.

I cant say I have used the 3m stonechip. Only gravitex. I am yet to buy stonechip for my mini so interested to see how this stuff lies. I have never personally had issues with adhesion but time will tell on that I suppose. Keep up the hard work.

 

Thanks myredmini, I used gravitex on a nissan about 5 years ago and still have the car. Unlike this build which is a bit more full on, I sprayed gravitex on newly prepared paint and over existing underseal. Everything was properly prepped by scuffing the original underseal and flatting back the new areas but it's cracked and flaking off. It seems like it's dried out.

 

From what I can gather, having spoken to people I know with bodyshops, the 3M stuff should be OK

 

Pete

[myredmini]

Ah. Depending on the underseal and paint it went ontop of then this can be an issue. 2k paints are fine if well cured. Underseal can cause alot of issues. Best to strip that off first.

[Dickyp]

[quote name="Petrol" post="2931207" timestamp="1384124559"][quote name="Dickyp" post="2930244" timestamp="1384018387"]
Have you guys looked at the Teroson stuff? I used to work for them and they have supplied the cavity wax, underbody stone guard and seam sealer to VW group for decades. Good range but I guess you would think I'd say that!!
They also a phosphate wipe so you can do localised panel prep, these are used for when panels are repaired and go through ecoat.
Keep it up as you are tempting me further to make a purchase!!!
[/quote]
 
Thanks Dickyp, I have never heard of the Teroson stuff but have had a look into it. Part of the Loctite group, a name that we are all familiar with. It looks like good stuff and if VW are using it, it will be a top notch product. Looking at this MPI shell, it seems to me that there are 2 main reasons why it's so bad - Lack of protection inside of the seams and a severe lack of coating underneath. By filling all of the seams with zinc, proper seam sealing and spraying the whole shell in 2K paint before I even start with stonechip / box section wax, it should last. I guess only time will tell.

I cant say I have used the 3m stonechip. Only gravitex. I am yet to buy stonechip for my mini so interested to see how this stuff lies. I have never personally had issues with adhesion but time will tell on that I suppose. Keep up the hard work.

 
Yes started with Loctite so have plenty of knowledge of the magic pixie potion!!

Well at least your build is prepping me for the future if I ever get my hands on one.

[Petrol]

Ah. Depending on the underseal and paint it went ontop of then this can be an issue. 2k paints are fine if well cured. Underseal can cause alot of issues. Best to strip that off first.

 

I mailed a friend some time ago about this underseal jobbie and this was his reply...

 

"If you do use stonechip then paint over it - use 3m or another good make. I used some cheap crap on a Golf a few years ago and I might as well used emulsion paint - it was very brittle, flaky and was prone to shrinking leaving a finish like crocodile skin. I will ask Bob what he recommends"

 

This is the red Nissan I did with the Upol

 

 

 

I also did a blue Nissan 6 years ago but used 3M

 

 

 

 

 

 

I also still have this car but there has been no shrinking, cracking or flaking at all. I can only put that down to the quality of the 3M stuff.

 

You mentioned 2K paints being well cured and this is very important. It takes ages for 2K paint to fully cure especially if there's body filler behind it. What happens is the filler absorbs the solvents in the paint and "maps out" leaving a step or ring around the edge of the filler. That's why I'm filling and painting the panels as the shell is being built; to give the paint time to dry.

 

Dickyp - I'm just trying to get it right so I don't have to worry about tin worm later down the line though I do worry I'm going a bit OTT

 

Pete

[myredmini]

Very true i have seen that happen on cars that have came into my work. Mapping on panels etc. On my cars I tend to do the filler work and priming then leave to settle prior to flatting and final prep for paint, just to allow everything to cure and shrink as it inevitably will. That 3m stuff looks really good!

[Petrol]

Very true i have seen that happen on cars that have came into my work. Mapping on panels etc. On my cars I tend to do the filler work and priming then leave to settle prior to flatting and final prep for paint, just to allow everything to cure and shrink as it inevitably will. That 3m stuff looks really good!

From my experience, 3M only make quality stuff so I trust their products and I have never had a problem with them. Mapping on panels is a right pain but as you say, it's best to leave to shrink.

 

Hit a bit of a milestone today on the shell as the last of the seams has been blasted.

 

 

Now the shell is rust free (I think), it's time to fit the scuttle, upper dash rail & outer sills. Roof skin will be the last job.

 

Couple of pics

 

 

 

[chrishil1]

Hi Pete, looking good. Lets know if you want to
do a deal on the 13's as I've got some genuine 12"
Rover minilights if that's the way your going.

Have to nip round in mine soon, as my welding and
Mot will be in a month or so if I can get this sill on.
Chris

[Down&Out]

Just read this whole thread. Fantastic work, proper inspiration for when i finally get round to welding my minis up. Shall be following this in future!

[Petrol]

Hi Pete, looking good. Lets know if you want to
do a deal on the 13's as I've got some genuine 12"
Rover minilights if that's the way your going.

Have to nip round in mine soon, as my welding and
Mot will be in a month or so if I can get this sill on.
Chris

 

Hi Chris,

Would be great to see your Mini, feel free to pop round anytime. Not sure what I am doing with the 13's at the moment but ultimately I will need 2 sets of wheels and tyres for this car - One set to drive it and another for winter storage.

 

 

Just read this whole thread. Fantastic work, proper inspiration for when i finally get round to welding my minis up. Shall be following this in future!

 

Thanks Down&Out, I'm trying to go the extra mile to stop the rust coming back and it's proving to be very time consuming. The other thing I didn't realise when this project was started, was how labour intensive panel replacement is. Fitting a new panel on a modern car if fairly easy but on a Mini, it's more like custom fabrication!

 

To enable me to work on the shell through winter, I have sheeted up the garage (read as office) so I can get some paint on

 

 

I'm still sorting the seams out - with the shell upside down I poured Electrox zinc paint into the seams between the inner sill and door step

 

 

Again with the shell upside down, filling the seam across the top of the front panel with zinc was easy

 

 

 

The original plan was to have the shell finally sprayed in a booth but have decided to give it a go myself. Never done a full car in metallic basecoat / clearcoat so that should be interesting.

 

Pete

 

 

 

[Noah]

I would go for tens, don't run the wheel arches and have a narrower wheel. Ie; a 4.5" wheel.