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Mini Cooper 998 Screamer Nut And Bolt Rebuild


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#331 Petrol

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Posted 04 September 2013 - 10:23 PM

Its the same stuff Ben - PU adhesive. Thanks very much for posting the data sheet up which was very interesting. I noticed they recommend applying adhesive between the door crash bar and the door skin, think I will do the same as it will stiffen the door skin up and reduce drumming. PU adhesive has typically 25% flexture so it's not going to transmit vibration / noise

 

More work on the front floor, stripped most of the zinc primer I applied off with thinners. I only used this for temporary protection as the car was outside.  Next job is to spray on 2K etch primer followed by 2K gloss.

 

0502_zpsf5381804.jpg

 

Boot floor (another) trial fit

 

0496_zps9662f3a5.jpg

 

Decided to weld the rear valence assembly including all the stiffeners to the boot floor off the car

 

0497_zps1e990d90.jpg

 

It's a bit complicated how it all goes together so I will post up some detailed pics.

 

 

Underneath, would be uber cool to have a gloss paint job like this but I want it to last so it’s going to have a good dose of Shutz

 

0499_zps77c427b1.jpg

 

Amp will be fitted here. It's great to be able to drill all the holes before spraying the shell.

 

0500_zpsa94abbe8.jpg

 

 

Pete


Edited by Petrol, 05 September 2013 - 07:58 PM.


#332 Petrol

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Posted 06 September 2013 - 09:34 PM

Welded the valence to the boot floor. There are 4 layers, it goes like this.

 

0503_zpscbe8733c.jpg

 

Other side has the wheel arch braces.

 

0504_zps2daadf74.jpg

 

Dash mock up. I want to make proper brackets for the dash as it's a friction fit with plastic tapered wedges. I also want to mod the centre console so it bolts in. Finish will be a combination of gloss black paint, carbon fibre, black vinyl and stainless cap screws.

 

0505_zpse75102e2.jpg

 

Colour scheme was inspired by this rocker cover

 

920.jpg

 

Pete

 

 

 



#333 AndyFrenchMan

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Posted 07 September 2013 - 03:36 PM

I really like your dashboard! Can't wait to see it finished.

 

Can you take a picture of the back of your speedometer ? Thank you :).

 

Regards.



#334 myredmini

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Posted 07 September 2013 - 03:49 PM

You say you are going to schultz the unerside? Why not Use UPOL Gravtex stone chip and paint gloss over the top? Heard schultz breaks down over a few years causing moisture ingress etc.

 

:thumbsup:



#335 Petrol

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Posted 08 September 2013 - 09:38 PM



I really like your dashboard! Can't wait to see it finished.

 

Can you take a picture of the back of your speedometer ? Thank you :).

 

Regards.

 

Good idea with the stonechip and overpaint :shades:

 

Back of speedo pic

 

0506_zps3256478a.jpg

 

Hope this is OK. If you need any more let me know

 

Pete



#336 Petrol

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Posted 10 September 2013 - 09:32 PM

Boot floor welded in

 

0507_zpsa67d8e16.jpg

 

Spot welded most of it but had to plug weld the rear seat upright. Penetration on the plug welds

 

0513_zps32644f42.jpg

 

Forced zinc primer in the seam where it meets the back panel

 

0509_zpsdf84cfac.jpg

 

Same with the heelboard

 

0510_zps587ff5ab.jpg

 

 

All this zinc makes a bit of a mess :D

 

0511_zps6bb39fc0.jpg

 

I was a bit concerned about welding the rear seatbelt mounting to the boot floor, thick bracket to thin sheet and all that but was pleased with the result

 

 

0512_zps386df6ba.jpg

 

Thanks for looking

Pete



#337 Petrol

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Posted 14 September 2013 - 09:45 PM

Bit more done, seam seal and paint

 

0514_zps452e494d.jpg

 

 

0515_zps2b598350.jpg

 

0516_zpse0262f48.jpg

 

0517_zps6c3c67a8.jpg

 

 



#338 Petrol

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Posted 18 September 2013 - 10:04 PM

I’m struggling fitting the rear wheel arches due to alignment / gap problems.….

 

0518_zpsedd25754.jpg

 

0519_zpsf3df8a0d.jpg

 

 

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Underneath

 

0521_zpsd342f204.jpg

 

 

My main concern is the alignment of the shocks. How critical is the position of the arch? If anyone could help me out I would appreciate it. Just to add, the boot floor is Heritage and the arches are Magnum.

Cheers

Pete
 

 



#339 myredmini

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Posted 18 September 2013 - 10:05 PM

I would think the issue is in the arch panel if the boot floor was accurately fitted :thumbsup:  



#340 Petrol

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 10:24 PM



I would think the issue is in the arch panel if the boot floor was accurately fitted :thumbsup:  

 

The boot floor fitted pretty accurate, everything aligned up to within a couple of mm. I appreciate that Magnum panels will never fit as good as Heritage, but genuine panels come with a hefty price tag. My main concern was the suspension geometry, particularly the angle of the shock relative to the radius arm. Panel gaps are cosmetic and can easily be sorted but suspension alignment is pretty important on this build. I have now sorted it with a bit of adjustment; the distance between the top of the shock mounts is within a couple of mm from the dimensions taken before the shell was stripped.

 

0522_zps62553b4c.jpg

 

Next job is to fit the new rear ¼ panels. Cleaned off the celly based primer with thinners, then sprayed the inside with Electrox zinc and the outside with 2K etch primer. Note the fan which helps reduce curing times.

 

0523_zpsbd0d198b.jpg

 

Pete



#341 Archived4

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 10:35 PM

Wicked work. And I'm sure BL tollerences were more than a couple of mm from the factory.

 

And from what I've read/seen on here about wheel arch repairs is people get them at the desired angle, measuring from the boot floor, and use a spirit level to make sure they sit right. Can't think of other measurements needed to get it true?



#342 Artstu

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Posted 22 September 2013 - 10:04 AM

Truly amazing work Pete. I came across this earlier and thought how much easier it would have made the cleaning up of your shell.

 

http://www.shockmans...aning-look-fun/



#343 rally515

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Posted 22 September 2013 - 12:22 PM

Truly amazing work Pete. I came across this earlier and thought how much easier it would have made the cleaning up of your shell.

 

http://www.shockmans...aning-look-fun/

 

Wow thats amazing haha, definatly would be easyer, less messy and more enjoyable, wonder if t works on rust ? :lol:



#344 Petrol

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 09:30 PM



Wicked work. And I'm sure BL tollerences were more than a couple of mm from the factory.

 

And from what I've read/seen on here about wheel arch repairs is people get them at the desired angle, measuring from the boot floor, and use a spirit level to make sure they sit right. Can't think of other measurements needed to get it true?

 

Thats all about you can do.



Truly amazing work Pete. I came across this earlier and thought how much easier it would have made the cleaning up of your shell.

 

http://www.shockmans...aning-look-fun/

 

That is ace  :shades:  I want one!

 

Thanks for the comments, cut the rear 1/4 off

 

0526_zpsd950fe87.jpg

 

Arch closing panel, bit complicated this lot as it welds to the inner wing stiffener, companion bin, rear arch and rear 1/4 panel

 

0524_zpsdf0f3cd4.jpg

 

Panel trial fit

 

0525_zpsddbfe547.jpg

 

 

Pete

 

 

 

 


 



#345 Petrol

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 06:33 PM

Original plan was to use a Mini Spares template to drill for the sportspack arches

 

0527_zps4bcf032b.jpg

 

 

Tried it on the original panel and the holes didn’t quite line up. Decided to use the old panel as a template

 

0528_zpsad47223e.jpg

 

0529_zpsdd84ff91.jpg

 

It was worth the effort as the holes line up perfect

 

0530_zps3d6555a6.jpg

 

 

Pete

 






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