1844 replies to this topic

[zony]

Glad he suffers with the same problem as mine. The horrible piece of sponge on the bulkhead!

 

Can anyone tell me how he keeps his air filter bracket that colour and how do you make the plastic areas (air filter box) shine like that.

[Ben_O]

Glad he suffers with the same problem as mine. The horrible piece of sponge on the bulkhead!

 

Can anyone tell me how he keeps his air filter bracket that colour and how do you make the plastic areas (air filter box) shine like that.

I would have thought by what Pete said that he has been keeping those bits clean and polished from new.

I used to use WD40 on plastics under the bonnet and that gives a real good shine when wiped on with a cloth

 

Ben

[Petrol]

Glad he suffers with the same problem as mine. The horrible piece of sponge on the bulkhead!

 

Can anyone tell me how he keeps his air filter bracket that colour and how do you make the plastic areas (air filter box) shine like that.

 

The air filter bracket is zinc plated then goes through a passification process (this gives it the golden / yellow colour) The reason they passify the zinc coating is to harden it - zinc is a soft metal. As with any metal coating, it will only last if it's dry stored. This car has been dry stored all of it's life. As far as shining up black plastic bits goes, the best thing I have found is Auto Glym vinyl & rubber care but I am a long way off using that!

 

As far as the sponge on the bulkhead goes, I'm ditching it. I also ditched the concourse route long ago and decided to go for best build quality which hopefully will make my car last. That said, I take my hat off to the owners of the original examples out there.

 

This car was in a pretty bad shape when I bought it so hopefully with a "proper Petrol" treatment, it will last

 

 

Pete

[Petrol]

Started on the OS flitch

 

 

I have also cut out the fusebox mount from inside the car. I'm fitting front speaker pods that I bought second hand. The fusebox will be mounted on the side of the OS pod

 

 

Chooped up the original metal support to strengthen the inside of the pod

 

 

This is the front of the pod made from MDF. I removed the original vinly which was stapled on

 

 

The sides were screwed in with wood screws. I want to use stainless cap bolts for a better finish. I drilled out the holes bigger and filled them with polyester resin. These will be drilled and tapped to take the stainless bolts

 

 

As with any rebuild, parts can be expensive. I took advantage of Minisport's stock clearance and bought this top tint screen

 

 

 

And wheel nuts

 

 

 

Bloke in the shop said "I guess the car is nearly finished"  Yer right!

 

 

[jaydee]

Keep it solid blue looks much better! 

Hats off to painting a whole car on the drive, i get dust on fresh paint even in the oven 

[Petrol]

Ever had one of those days?

 

I only wanted to shotblast a few parts and paint them. Started the compresser up and the belts were slipping, 2 hours later it was sorted.

I was running low on blast media but started on the shock absorber top mount....

 

 

It's that bad it's perforated

 

And this

 

 

 

Threads are weak. Oh joy, I need some new ones

 

I gave up and bought some more blast media, ordered a load of stainless / HT nuts and bolts and had a right good clean up. Been here before and when things go wrong, it's best to change tact and do something different

 

Pete

 

 

[zony]

Keep up the good work Pete, don't get down hearted. Trying to get mine through the MOT to use it for the summer before I do a complete front end rebuild. MOT due next week, I am replacing knuckles , bottom arm bushes and Ball joint dust covers that I changed a year ago. Don't know if its the quality of parts these days but top and bottom ball joints are so rusty. Been on the car for 200 plus miles. Very peed off. I hope the MOT guy has I good day when I take it in. Might give him a Mars bar.

[Petrol]

Good luck with the MOT

Thats how these jobs go - ups and downs. OS door step didn't fit so I had to cut it

 

 

 

Looks OK now

 

 

 

 

 

Pete

[Petrol]

Made a start on the OS floor

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Found it better to drill a small pilot hole when drilling out spot welds. Large drills tend to wander

 

 

 

Battery cable support came off intact

 

 

Behind it was bare metal and of course, rust

 

 

 

[rally515]

Ahh, nice to see the brown stuff still exists, i was getting rather bothered by the lack of this common colour we all have

 

Really need to learn the gentle ways of drilling of spot welds instead of hammer and a wood chisel and then grind haha,does it take much longer in time scale ? and i,ve always been bothered by the fact i will more then likely drill straight through and leave a graping hole to fill.

 

So whats next on the agenderr for repairs/de-rusting after the sill Petrol ?

 

Great work as always

 

Cheers

Cliff

[Petrol]

It probably took twice as long to drill the spot welds out carefully. It should mean that re assembly will be a lot quicker and easier. Been there done that with the chisels and it takes ages to weld and dress all the splits up. A stich in time and all that.

 

Once the sills / floor / heelboard are done it's on to the complete boot floor and both arches. Then it's both rear 1/4's followed by the new roof skin (not looking forwards to the grinding the old one off)

Last will be a new Heritage scuttle and complete front end. Doubt I will get that lot done this year.

 

Thanks for the kind words Cliff

 

Pete

[rally515]

Wow, im genuinly looking forward to seeing the roof job haha, will take up alot of welding i presume unless you,ve got yourself a spotwelder to get in those gutters and do the job a lot quicker.

 

I'l buy a load of spotweld drill bits and have a good go at doing the job properly then, saying that...I,ve been wondering as to what you do when you drill the welds out, its bound to leave an indentation in the metal because of the pointed angle on a drill bit so do i skim some weld in these area befroe re-spot welding my new panels in ? or are these drill bits different and im just being an idiot haha

 

Sorry to e clogging up your thread again, think i,ve done this questioning thing twice now , i just like to give my 2p as they say and take a little bit of knowledge at the same time as no doubt later on down the line somewere i'l be doing this haha

 

No worries pete, im happy to give you the appreciation you deserve, theres a load of build thread knocking about on here and other forums but very few go into so much written detail and finish with a top notch job....Keep up the insperation Pete

 

Right i'l shutup now, sounding like a ruddy perve

 

Cheers

Cliff

[Petrol]

Wow, im genuinly looking forward to seeing the roof job haha, will take up alot of welding i presume unless you,ve got yourself a spotwelder to get in those gutters and do the job a lot quicker.

 

I'l buy a load of spotweld drill bits and have a good go at doing the job properly then, saying that...I,ve been wondering as to what you do when you drill the welds out, its bound to leave an indentation in the metal because of the pointed angle on a drill bit so do i skim some weld in these area befroe re-spot welding my new panels in ? or are these drill bits different and im just being an idiot haha

 

Sorry to e clogging up your thread again, think i,ve done this questioning thing twice now , i just like to give my 2p as they say and take a little bit of knowledge at the same time as no doubt later on down the line somewere i'l be doing this haha

 

No worries pete, im happy to give you the appreciation you deserve, theres a load of build thread knocking about on here and other forums but very few go into so much written detail and finish with a top notch job....Keep up the insperation Pete

 

Right i'l shutup now, sounding like a ruddy perve

 

Cheers

Cliff

 

 

I have a spot welder but will have to mod it a bit to get into the tight gutter seams, that's why the roof skin will be the last job on the shell.

Good question about drilling out the welds. There are 2 scenarios here. When replacing an old part like the battery cable support, I will just plug weld it on as the weld will fill the indentation in the floor made by the drill. If I am spot welding new to old I will weld up any indentaions made by the drill. The reason for this is to prevent any voids which could be the start of rust.

 

Hope that helps

 

Pete

[rally515]

Thankyou Pete, glad i asked the pro's how haha

 

Cheers again

Cliff

[Petrol]

Pro? Yer right

 

Don't forget you can always grind out spot welds to leave the panel behind intact. This is how I removed the heelboard. It's being replaced so it doesn't matter if has deep grind marks in it. Takes a bit longer than drilling but saves welding the drill holes / indentations up.

 

 

Ground that out in 29 degrees of heat in full sun. Had a bit of a sweat on!

 

Pete