1844 replies to this topic

[MiNi'D]

I guess you have a few too many pictures in your photbucket library hu? :)

 

I can't see any of your pictures but I would love to ;)

[Petrol]

I ran out of bandwidth so have upgraded the account

 

Got the engine bay in primer

 

 

[zony]

Can't wait to see the front end go on. Good work man.

[Ben_O]

Mine is gone at the top of the bulkhead where yours had Pete, but I can't manage to find anything here that I can cut one off of.

Did you get your bit from a breakers yard?

Might have to have a ring round of breakers on the mainland and see if I can o get one when i'm over next time.

Hmmm, wonder if anyone on here has a shell that they would be willing to cut that bit off and sell me. I'll have to put a request in on wanted section.

 

Good luck mate

 

Ben

[Petrol]

Can't wait to see the front end go on. Good work man.

 

That could be some time off

 

Mine is gone at the top of the bulkhead where yours had Pete, but I can't manage to find anything here that I can cut one off of.

Did you get your bit from a breakers yard?

Might have to have a ring round of breakers on the mainland and see if I can o get one when i'm over next time.

Hmmm, wonder if anyone on here has a shell that they would be willing to cut that bit off and sell me. I'll have to put a request in on wanted section.

 

Good luck mate

 

Ben

 

I got mine off a local guy. Try sending HarrysMini a PM.  This is his thread

 

http://www.theminifo...982-city-shell/

Edited by Petrol, 26 June 2013 - 06:16 PM.

[Petrol]

Seam sealed around the engine bay. I used Sikaflex straight on top of the Electrox zinc primer. There's no need to go mad, Rover might have skimped on paint but the seam sealer was slapped on big time.

 

 

I don't like the idea of dressing seam welds back for the "invisible look" on structural areas. Doing this can result in sanding the sheet metal thinner and obviously weaker.  I'm sanding back with a flap wheel as close as I can, then shot blasting, priming and seam sealing. The reason for the seam sealer is two fold. It looks neater and significantly reduces the risk of rust - edges are difficult to get any paint thickness on. Think of trying to spray a razor blade edge. Seam sealing the repaired areas overcomes this problem.

 

 

Talking of looking neater, the bottom of the bulkhead has some hammer rash where I split and treated the seams

 

 

This won't be seen when the car is finished, I'm going to fill it though as a friend of mine who owns a bodyshop is going to spray the shell. He would give me some real stick for that

 

 

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

[Petrol]

Hi my name is Kelt and i owned this Mini for about 6 years . I sold it about 7 years to a guy in Cearphilly its good to see it is still soon to be back on the road i bought it from Bristol minis when it was a year old 

if there is anything you need to know you can get hold of me on my email [email protected]

 

Kelt very kindly sent me a pic of the car when it was about a year old

 

 

Interesting to see the sunroof. I guess these shrink with UV.

 

Have to say it's great to talk to a previous owner, it just adds to the interest

[shough]

Pete,

Any chance you can restore my MPI when I finally buy it???
:)

[Petrol]

Pete,

Any chance you can restore my MPI when I finally buy it???
:)

 

This is my last refurb. Iv'e had enough

 

Sprayed the engine bay

 

 

 

[Archived4]

WOW. Beautiful. What's the colour? Is it solid or metallic?

[Petrol]

WOW. Beautiful. What's the colour? Is it solid or metallic?

 

The paint I'm using at the moment is Tahiti blue but a solid.  The plan is to get the whole of the shell done in the solid, then flat it back for a final full paint job in mettalic Tahiti blue.

 

 

Pete

[zony]

Pete, I love you.

[chrisj]

Great job on the engine bay pete!

What's your technique for spraying?, do you do the edges/corners first then the straighter areas?

Chris

[Petrol]

Hi Chris,

 

I often spray 2 - 3 coats on the edges first, then leave it to go tacky. I then do the edges again followed by the flat areas. It's difficult to get a decent paint thickness on edges / corners and I have found this to be about the best. On areas that you can't see, like the subframe it's a good idea to remove any sharp edges or even sand a small radius along the edges. This improves the surface area and as a result, paint thickness. I have also brush painted edges before spraying the part. This is probably the best way to get a proper coating on.

 

Pete

[Petrol]

Went to a classic car show today and met a guy with a mint original condition MPI. Have to say it was great to see an unmolested example