1843 replies to this topic

[BishopMaverick]

I didn't buy enough rust treatment stuff - I thought it's only a Mini - Yer right

Knowing what I know now, I would get

Deox Gel X2 @ £9.17 each
Deox C X1 @ £12.20
Electrox zinc paint X2 @ £29.95 each

Xylene is also required to thin the Electrox. So as a ballpark about £100. Not expensive on the grand scheme of things. I am guessing I will spend more than that on stainless nuts and bolts, then there's the hose clips... the list goes on!

If there is enough interest on this forum, I might be able to get some discount on the Bilt Hamber range of rust treatment products

Pete

Just a quick question... The Electrolux, just as good in rattle can form or wait till I've got my compressor?

I would be interested in a discount from these guys... I can see there would be a lot of interest on this forum

BM

Edited by BishopMaverick, 18 April 2013 - 12:01 AM.

[Petrol]

Rattle cans are great for convenience. Forcing Electrox into seams needs a bit more pressure than an aerosol can provide. I often use 60 psi (4 bar) to force Electrox around spot welds in seams. With a tin, you can control the viscosity.

I have asked about discounts

[BishopMaverick]

In that case I will wait till I've got the right tool for the job and get a few tins in (of Electrox) cheers for the advice

Nice one, keep me updated

BM

[Petrol]

Mailed Bilt Hamber, should have a reply next week

Achieving the factory look on skinned panels can be difficult. The main problem is where the lip folds over the frame. By the time you have seam sealed it, it can look messy. This is what I have done

This is the door frame, lip folded over and seam sealed. I mixed up some 2K paint and brushed on several coats - about 15 mins between coats



Looks a right mess but flatted back and sprayed the results are not bad, this is the boot skin



I didn't bother welding it, just used sikaflex here



Inside of boot lid is now finished short of final metallic paint & lacquer



More paint to the dash, water had rippled it quite a bit but it's sorted now.



Progress is slow but I'm happy with how it's going

Pete

[Petrol]

Dash mockup, I wont be using the Mpi magnolia gauges as the casings are plastic. The bulb holders also melt. These will be replaced with black and chrome old skool smiths gauges. The plan is oil temp, oil pressure and clock in the dash, with volts and vacuum in the center console



Did a bit of work on the inner sill today and it's ready to fit, holes drilled for plug welds and large 20mm holes for Electrox / Dynax injection. Also split some seams up the A pillar to find more rust - Oh Joy! Just need a decent couple of days weather and I can crack on


Pete

[Wilko]

Looks great.

We bought a 99'T Sportpack from Mini Technique a couple of years ago. Just waiting for some restoration work now. A couple of bits where the rust is getting the better of the car but I am hoping it is not too much deeper down.

Picture: http://www.theminifo...ost__p__2154320

From fairly nearby, I will be keeping an eye out for the car when you are done.

[Petrol]

Looks great.

We bought a 99'T Sportpack from Mini Technique a couple of years ago. Just waiting for some restoration work now. A couple of bits where the rust is getting the better of the car but I am hoping it is not too much deeper down.

Picture: http://www.theminifo...ost__p__2154320

From fairly nearby, I will be keeping an eye out for the car when you are done.

Don't think it will be on the road this year but feel free to pop in for a brew if you're passing. I'm in Wilpshire. The problem with Mini's, especially Rover (and no doubt Heritage) assembled shells is the lack of rust prevention in the seams. A bright metal welded shell lasts about 10 years before it's holes galore. Modern cars are E-coated, also known as electrocoat. Austin used a process called rotadip way back when. Does anyone know anything about this and how it worked? I have a link to a vid showing the process if anyone is interested.

Full steam ahead with the shell now, door step lip shotblasted and primed with Bilt Hamber etchweld in preparation for the inner sill



A pillar seam split, yep it's rusty



Bottom of companion box shotblasted and sprayed with etchweld



Shotblasted the bottom of the B post



Then sprayed thinned zinc primer in to penetrate the seam



Not sure yet if the rear 1/4 panel is coming off, did this just in case I leave it on

This is where the floor meets the X member. I drilled 4 spot welds out to get rid of the rust under here



Then shotblasted inside of the X member



I plug welded the 4 spot welds back up and sprayed zinc primer inside of the X member

Then tacked the sill on



All plug welds have been flooded with zinc including the the companion box and X member.

Thanks for looking

[Petrol]

Bilt Hamber can give 10% off Electrox aerosols if there's some interest.

Seam welded the inner sill on





For comparison, other side look like this



Pete

[BishopMaverick]

Bilt Hamber can give 10% off Electrox aerosols if there's some interest.

YAY, I'll get in on some of that if it's sortable

Good to see your making good progress with the project... It seems your splitting seams on panels that will remain in the shell (hope I've followed that correctly) if so how are you going about splitting them and then sealing them? Hope it's not too daft a question.

BM

[Petrol]

Bilt Hamber can give 10% off Electrox aerosols if there's some interest.

Good to see your making good progress with the project... It seems your splitting seams on panels that will remain in the shell (hope I've followed that correctly) if so how are you going about splitting them and then sealing them? Hope it's not too daft a question.

BM

Yes, you have followed that correctly and it's by no means a daft question. I'm using a very blunt screwdriver to split the seams whilst leaving the spot welds intact. Then I am shotblasting inside of the seam with a fine glass blasting media. Once the rust has gone, I am brush painting zinc primer inside and closing the seam whilst the paint is still wet. To close the seams I am using pliers or mole grips.

Rust starts in seams and one it starts, it spreads. I am trying to get to the bottom of it but I guess only time will tell if I have sorted it. This Min (it has no name yet) will live outside so it will be interesting to see how long it lasts. I also have some other ideas on rust prevention but need to get the shell painted before these swing into action.

Pete

[BishopMaverick]

Yes, you have followed that correctly and it's by no means a daft question. I'm using a very blunt screwdriver to split the seams whilst leaving the spot welds intact. Then I am shotblasting inside of the seam with a fine glass blasting media. Once the rust has gone, I am brush painting zinc primer inside and closing the seam whilst the paint is still wet. To close the seams I am using pliers or mole grips.

Rust starts in seams and one it starts, it spreads. I am trying to get to the bottom of it but I guess only time will tell if I have sorted it. This Min (it has no name yet) will live outside so it will be interesting to see how long it lasts. I also have some other ideas on rust prevention but need to get the shell painted before these swing into action.

Pete

Perfect answer, nice and clear I was rather wondering about whether you were removing the spots and re welding. However how easy is it get the screwdriver into the seam? also screwdriver itself thin, large or something inbetween? (again sorry if its a daft question, I just don't fancy making anymore holes in my shell with a large blunt screwdriver )

Look forward to seeing more ideas from a fellow rust worrier!

BM

[Petrol]

This is what I use

 

 

Split seam shotblasted

 

 

Electrox zinc paint brushed in

 

 

Seam closed with mole grips

 

 

 

The original plan was to keep the NS door step and grind the old sill off

 

 

 

Struggled with this so went for plan B. The Magnum panel was rippled around the curve so I cut it down

 

 

Welded on

 

 

Lip was too wide for the trim

 

 

Sanded it downs so it sits flush

 

 

Spot welded on

 

 

Painted the door skins

 

 

I put loads on to get any imperfections out.

 

 

These will be left for the paint to harden before a final block sand and metallic paint

 

Thanks for looking

Pete

Edited by Petrol, 27 April 2013 - 05:55 PM.

[BishopMaverick]

This is what I use

 

 

Split seam shotblasted

 

 

Electrox zinc paint brushed in

 

 

Seam closed with mole grips

 

 

 

 

Thanks Petrol, that's just the quick guide I needed and I think I have just the tool too   !

 

Keep up the good work, always make a great read... and I normally learn something as well!

 

BM

[Petrol]

Thanks for the kind words BM and only too pleased to help

 

The way the shell should be assembled is

 

Inner sill

Flitch panel

Outer sill

Heel board

 

The shell could take some time to fabricate and since it's very difficult to get zinc paint around the welds where the outer sill meets the inner sill, I'm hoping to fit the heel board before the outer sills. If this works out, I can fit the outer sills last and then spray box section wax inside after the shell has been sprayed. Bit of a jigsaw? Yep but you can't start spraying box section wax until the shell has been painted. Hope that made sense but it took me a while to figure that lot out.

 

Cut the flitch panel out and shot blasted

 

 

Forced zinc primer inside the seam and etch weld through applied here

 

 

 

New flitch panel prepared

 

 

Best,

Pete

 

 

by the way, is anyone else interested In Bilt Hambers offer of 10% discount on Electrox aerosols? It's not worth it to set a discount code up for 1 member

 

[BishopMaverick]

By the way, is anyone else interested In Bilt Hambers offer of 10% discount on Electrox aerosols? It's not worth it to set a discount code up for 1 member

 

 

I could stick a thread on TMF+ they love a bargain discount

 

BM