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Mini Cooper 998 Screamer Nut And Bolt Rebuild


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#1486 Petrol

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Posted 18 May 2018 - 10:39 PM



Ta - just bought a set, not too dear at less that £2 each.

 

Those are what I bought. GraemeC, I would appriciate it if you could post up what socket size fits the nuts. I don't have much in the way of imperial sockects and am stuggling to find the right size.



How are you going to go about mounting the dizzy shield? I'm the same not being a fan of the ones that fit to the rocker cover. 

 

I used stainless cap bolts through existing holes in the front panel.

 

flQdkdG.jpg

 

Bumpers are on. There are massive problems with the fit of aftermarket bumpers but I'm happy with this

 

PkvMSWj.jpg

 

1FIbMVK.jpg

 

Still lots of things to sort out on the engine / gearbox front. You have no idea how tired I am of being suppied with inferior quality parts. The bottom line is, I won't fit fit them.

I have upped my game now and despite ordering very expensive parts from major players, they have let me down with failed deliveries. Sorry for the rant but why is it like this with Mini's?



#1487 timmy850

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Posted 19 May 2018 - 12:54 AM

I think the problem is that the mini is very much still a cheap classic car, and many people will buy on price alone. 

 

Then again, I had a 1978 Mazda and there was absolutely no aftermarket or manufacturer support at all...



#1488 Artstu

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Posted 19 May 2018 - 07:48 AM

11/16 is the size, a bit of wiggle room at that, I guess if you refined the finish a 17mm socket would fit.



#1489 Jase

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Posted 19 May 2018 - 07:51 AM

Are you going to fit any protection film to your paintwork before you take it on the road?



#1490 GraemeC

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Posted 19 May 2018 - 11:39 AM

11/16 AF

Actually a good fit Artsu at just 1/2 thou under. Presumably made from 11/16 stock.
17mm is no where near as they measure up to 17.45mm

#1491 Artstu

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Posted 19 May 2018 - 12:27 PM

11/16 AF

Actually a good fit Artsu at just 1/2 thou under. Presumably made from 11/16 stock.
17mm is no where near as they measure up to 17.45mm

 

I must have some worn sockets then. 

 

edit to add, the 17mm socket on my wheel-brace fits over the nut by quite a bit, clearly the tolerance is way out then on my brace.


Edited by Artstu, 19 May 2018 - 02:00 PM.


#1492 johnR

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Posted 19 May 2018 - 12:28 PM

Might have been a photobucket problem.

 

This is a duplex kit from Minispares

 

151dARr.jpg

 

Whats going on?

Help!
Please!

Pretty please!

 

Pete

What was going on there? - that chain was way too long!



#1493 Petrol

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Posted 19 May 2018 - 09:11 PM

I think the problem is that the mini is very much still a cheap classic car, and many people will buy on price alone. 

 

Then again, I had a 1978 Mazda and there was absolutely no aftermarket or manufacturer support at all...

 

I'm not buying on price. I just want decent quality parts that fit and are suitable for purpose

Are you going to fit any protection film to your paintwork before you take it on the road?

 

I have used Chemical Guys Jet seal and 5050 wax on some of my other cars and I rate it. My Nissan was parked outside untouched over winter and the dirt fell off it when I washed it in spring.

iUjgSLy.jpg

 

 

11/16 AF

Actually a good fit Artsu at just 1/2 thou under. Presumably made from 11/16 stock.
17mm is no where near as they measure up to 17.45mm

 

Thanks and I know what you guys mean about the wiggle factor. Some sockets can be a bit of a sloppy fit

 

Might have been a photobucket problem.

 

This is a duplex kit from Minispares

 

151dARr.jpg

 

Whats going on?

Help!
Please!

Pretty please!

 

Pete

What was going on there? - that chain was way too long!

 

 

Yes, another load of hassle. The chain was supplied by Minispares. I contacted them and sent it back. Then, after little communication from them I had to chase it. They told me they couldn't find the part number on the invoice..... bla bla bla..... ZZZZZZ I bought it as a timing chain kit which has a different part number. Doh!

 

I have a replacement now

 

v7WgiXs.jpg

 

Massive progress on the engine build today. I have fitted the fuel pump blanking plate.

 

a4UoL5K.jpg

 

That's it for now. I'm waiting of others to make progress. The rest of the car is finished short of a few minor details. The way it's going I doubt it will be on the road this year.

 

 

Pete

 

 



#1494 johnR

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Posted 20 May 2018 - 05:34 PM

That first chain was nearly long enough to go round twice - Quadrex?!!

#1495 Petrol

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Posted 02 June 2018 - 10:41 PM

Wellseal on one side of the oil pump gasket.

U4BKoit.jpg

This helps it stick to the block and ensures a good seal

ZxAbkBr.jpg


Loctite on the bolts. I'm not using tab washers and it's important to make sure the bolts are not too long otherwise the pump won't seal.

16ba9HU.jpg


Oil pump bolted on.

QVB5mKP.jpg


I don't like to fit paper gaskets dry, so again it's wellseal for the engine plate gasket. Wellseal is very thin and doesn't harden.

cUJohN4.jpg


ipoqEhT.jpg


Then I fitted the MED engine plate

0bufZqh.jpg

There were, as usual, a few minor problems but the end float on the camshaft and primary gear are now within spec. I have checked the LCA (lobe centre angles) on the cam and the scatter is approx 5 degrees which is pretty aggressive. I'm not using a vernier pulley to set the cam timing but an offset woodruff key. It's best to measure this at the valve when the head is on to compensate for any losses in the valve train. I will sort this later.

I'm also starting to build the gearbox. The gear kit is NOS which is much better than a lot of new stuff from China but I need a few more parts before I can start assembling it.
1TNuyXa.jpg

I'm on the final throws of this build and it's still proving quite a challenge as I have been let down by many.
I have said it before on many forums but if you want a job doing properly, do the research, learn how how to do it then do it yourself. It's the only way to get things right.



Pete
 

 



#1496 BusheyTrader

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Posted 04 June 2018 - 07:53 PM

 
Still lots of things to sort out on the engine / gearbox front. You have no idea how tired I am of being suppied with inferior quality parts. The bottom line is, I won't fit fit them.
I have upped my game now and despite ordering very expensive parts from major players, they have let me down with failed deliveries. Sorry for the rant but why is it like this with Mini's?


It's a problem throughout the classic parts movement. Sub standard parts. There's a rubber gearbox mounting common across many 70's Triumph classics. The aftermarket stock from specialists are as hard as granite and transmit rampant noise and vibration in to the cabin. There's no alternative. I was told my gearbox must be f****d. I adapted a Volvo 740 mount for my TR7V8 following someone's example on the Dolly Sprint forum - sorted.

If more of us reject and return sub standard stuff and say we're prepared to pay a bit more for pukka items, maybe it will improve?

#1497 Nino

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Posted 07 June 2018 - 11:46 AM

Hi pete.

 

just did a follow up, as it has been ages, since ive been on here.

- still an incredible top quality build !



#1498 1330RG

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Posted 12 June 2018 - 04:34 PM

Do you apply wellseal to the other side once the gasket is on the block? Im always suprised that no one seams to use loctught gasket sealents? I always used them on my forged starlet engine builds instead of gaskets.

#1499 hhhh

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Posted 12 June 2018 - 05:48 PM

loctught gasket sealents?

 

Is that the Scottish version of Loctite gasket sealants? I like them except for the slight messiness of cleanup outside the castings, but their other properties make that a minor inconvenience. They provide an excellent seal with no risk of oil gallery plugging and relatively easy removal on disassembly.



#1500 Petrol

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Posted 15 June 2018 - 10:41 PM

 

 
Still lots of things to sort out on the engine / gearbox front. You have no idea how tired I am of being suppied with inferior quality parts. The bottom line is, I won't fit fit them.
I have upped my game now and despite ordering very expensive parts from major players, they have let me down with failed deliveries. Sorry for the rant but why is it like this with Mini's?


It's a problem throughout the classic parts movement. Sub standard parts. There's a rubber gearbox mounting common across many 70's Triumph classics. The aftermarket stock from specialists are as hard as granite and transmit rampant noise and vibration in to the cabin. There's no alternative. I was told my gearbox must be f****d. I adapted a Volvo 740 mount for my TR7V8 following someone's example on the Dolly Sprint forum - sorted.

If more of us reject and return sub standard stuff and say we're prepared to pay a bit more for pukka items, maybe it will improve?

 

 

I won't buy from the regulars anymore. I bought an "upgraded" pre verto clutch release bearing from Minispares and what they supplied is a joke. It's rough as a bears arse. I also have a bag full of brand new Minisport gearbox bearings which will be going in the bin. Don't waste your money guys, its all cheap crap that won't last.

Hi pete.

 

just did a follow up, as it has been ages, since ive been on here.

- still an incredible top quality build !

It's quality parts that I'm working on now

 

 

Do you apply wellseal to the other side once the gasket is on the block? Im always suprised that no one seams to use loctught gasket sealents? I always used them on my forged starlet engine builds instead of gaskets.

 

I use wellseal on both sides of the paper gaskets. There are many types of gasket sealants but the last thing you want is an excess.
It's best to replicate what the factory does... If they don't use a liquid gasket, do the same!

Like I said, wellseal is thin and it will assist in sealing thin paper gaskets

 

I haven't posted much up recently due to gearbox "assembly problems"

I now have the gearbox back and after sourcing a few good quality genuine MOWOG parts it will be built soon


Edited by Petrol, 15 June 2018 - 10:46 PM.





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