Mini Cooper 998 Screamer Nut And Bolt Rebuild
#136
Posted 02 March 2013 - 09:03 AM
I haven't caught this thread before but gald the re shuffle has brought it to my attention, great work, lovely attention to detail.
Graham
#137
Posted 02 March 2013 - 09:15 PM
#138
Posted 07 March 2013 - 10:58 PM
As you can see in the pic, I have also made a start on the flitch panel and am also working on the rot up the A pillars
Pete
#139
Posted 13 March 2013 - 10:31 PM
It's not as bad as I thought
The only welding on the shell I have seen so far are a couple of patches on the outer sills. There are no signs of accident damage / repair either. Seems like it's a pretty original shell.
Pete
#140
Posted 14 March 2013 - 11:34 PM
Outer sill rolled back
Floor pan X member to sill mounting point needs some fettling
Got to the back end and rain stopped play
Need to have a think about this lot as the inner sill fits inside the heel board......
I have never done a full on shell rebuild and it's proving interesting
Thanks for looking
Pete
#141
Posted 15 March 2013 - 07:38 PM
#142
Posted 15 March 2013 - 09:32 PM
Keep it up, Darren
#143
Posted 15 March 2013 - 09:58 PM
#144
Posted 21 March 2013 - 07:02 PM
#145
Posted 21 March 2013 - 10:43 PM
NS front and middle inner to outer sill supports can be salvaged
Split the seam on the middle support. Deox C will get rid of the rust
Dashboard top trim was a mess
Replaced with this, thanks to Phil!
Replacement dash top rail is from an early Mini, drilled to accept the trim
This replacement roof skin should be here soon
When work on the shell was started, it seemed daunting, I was overwhelmed with the task ahead but by spending many hours reading, I am feeling a lot more confident now. I don't want to cut much more out of the shell, so the plan is to cut the minimum of the heal board out to enable the inner sill to be welded in. This will give the shell a lot more rigidity and enable me to move on. I am also planning on cutting the genuine heal board I have in half so I can repair one side at at time. Bit hampered with the weather at the mo, roll on spring and summer evenings when I can crack on!
As always thanks for looking, comments always welcome and glad some of you have picked up a few tips
Best,
Pete
#146
Posted 26 March 2013 - 10:41 PM
Washed them in hot soapy water to remove any grit then polished the scratches out with this stuff
It's fairly easy to polish scratches out of plastic
Removed the plastic coating off the dash with a heat gun and scraper. Then brushed on some thinned 2K black paint on. This will allow the paint to penetrate the grain and prevent peeling
Filled the hole for the headlight leveling switch. I'm not bothering with these. Should make it easier fitting the headlights into the replacement front wings too
Clock surround had the same treatment, the yellow stuff is stopper. The plan is to spray it gloss black
Roof skin arrived today
Huge thanks to Scott on here for packing it up really well
TMF - FTW!
I just wish the weather would pick up so I can get cracking on the shell
Pete
#147
Posted 26 March 2013 - 10:42 PM
#148
Posted 28 March 2013 - 09:08 PM
Glovebox lid flatted back
Applied resin and allowed it to go tacky. Then laid on the carbon
Same with the clock pod
Taped the back up to prevent it peeling whilst the resin was curing
This gives you an idea of what it will look like
Pete
#149
Posted 29 March 2013 - 06:52 AM
Edited by Brams96, 29 March 2013 - 06:52 AM.
#150
Posted 30 March 2013 - 11:45 PM
I should be sorting the shell out but ended up messing about with interior trim....
Glovebox lid
Bit of this
And some of that
Feeling guilty about the lack of attention to the shell, I have bought a load of panels from jandksupplies on ebay. With the longer nights coming, Hopefully I can crack on with the shell.
As always, thank's for looking and all comments welcome
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