10 replies to this topic

[C.44]

Hi all, I'm looking for the correct steps and (final) torque specs for a 1275 A+ MPI head. The torque FAQ in this forum says 55nm but the Haynes manual says 68nm. Can anyone shed some light on this?

[jaydee]

When toruqeing cylinder head nuts (in the usual spiral pattern) do it in stages, 30lbs 40 lbs 50 lbs. Warm up the engine, let it cool down, then retorque it (one nut at the time in spiral pattern slacken it off by 1/4 then torque it up to 50lb)
Those nuts going only between rocker post and cylinder head are at just 24lbs.

[Fast Ivan]

34nm then 68nm.
I normaly then heat the car up and re-torque to 68nm.

[Cooperman]

Torque up on initial fitting using the correct sequence to 30 lb.ft, thre 40 lb.ft. then finally 50 lb.ft. Set valve clearances accurately using 'rule-of-nine'.
Run engine through a few heat cycles, or drive for around 100 to 200 miles, then loosen each nut in turn by 1/2 a turn and re-torque to 50 lb.ft. Just do one nut at a time, but still in the correct sequence.
Finally re-set valve clearances again, check coolant level and 'jobsagoodun'.

[Fast Ivan]

I shall be updating my procedure henceforth Cooperman

[C.44]

Thanks all, didn't get around to actually torquing down the head today just yet. Still had to put the block on the gearbox, put the timingcover and clutch + housing on. Eventually i just ran out of time but i'll have a bit of time tomorrow afternoon (i hope). Thanks for all the help so far =)

[Cooperman]

Thanks all, didn't get around to actually torquing down the head today just yet. Still had to put the block on the gearbox, put the timingcover and clutch + housing on. Eventually i just ran out of time but i'll have a bit of time tomorrow afternoon (i hope). Thanks for all the help so far =)

Good luck with the job. If you are fitting a copper-faced gasket, AF460, lightly smear it with engine oil before fitting and tightening down. If using the black BK450 gasket don't use any oil on it.

[C.44]

Thanks all, didn't get around to actually torquing down the head today just yet. Still had to put the block on the gearbox, put the timingcover and clutch + housing on. Eventually i just ran out of time but i'll have a bit of time tomorrow afternoon (i hope). Thanks for all the help so far =)

Good luck with the job. If you are fitting a copper-faced gasket, AF460, lightly smear it with engine oil before fitting and tightening down. If using the black BK450 gasket don't use any oil on it.

Thanks, i'm indeed using the BK450. I've heard of headgaskets (not on the a mini engine though) lightly being cover with coppergrease but oil is new to me. What's the story behind that? Seems to me it only weakens the materials (unless it's a MLS gasket).

[jaydee]

They wrote the oil thingy on some manual, now dont remember which (rover??)
Fit them dry, surely with NO grease and with mating surfaces (block and head) clean and de-greased.

[Cooperman]

The BK450 must be fited dry to absolutely clean surfaces. With the old copper-faced gaskets it was common practice in the 50's and 60's to lightly smear the faces with engine oil to ensure the gaskets slid into position when torqued down. That was sort-of passed down from an earlier generation of technicians and I just learned from that generation. It may be witchcraft, but it's always worked for me. It may well not really be necessary but, as they say, it's hard to break the habits of a lifetime.

[C.44]

Headgasket has been fitted (clean) and torqued down. Hopefully i'll be able to drop the engine back in tomorrow =)