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Wheel Bearing - Grease Or Not To Grease?


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#1 minisilverbullet

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 05:34 PM

Currently a bit confused over whether I should grease the centre of the wheel bearing assembly, the bit which is in contact with the drive shaft.

#2 Artful Dodger

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 05:37 PM

you press grease into the actual balls and race on the wheel bearing. push in as much as you can and actually force it in between the balls. but if you are talking about the inner race where the bearing touches the drive shaft it will not hurt.

more is better, less is worse with wheel bearings. if you get what i mean :)

#3 minisilverbullet

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 05:39 PM

you press grease into the actual balls and race on the wheel bearing. push in as much as you can and actually force it in between the balls. but if you are talking about the inner race where the bearing touches the drive shaft it will not hurt.

more is better, less is worse with wheel bearings. if you get what i mean :)


I get that, though as it is a friction surface.....

Taken from MRA minis webpage

4) Now fit the CV joint into place, there is no need to grease the CV joint shaft, you want as much friction between the inner bearing parts and the CV shaft as possible as any slippage here will cause issues and increase the wear rate.
5) Now fit the outboard inner bearing section again try to keep grease out of the CV shaft to bearing area.

#4 Jordie

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 05:40 PM

grease the bearing as much as possible. theres a knack to feeding the grease in one side until it comes out the other, this means the bearing is correctly packed all the way through with grease.

I grease the shaft a little and slide the hub over, fit castle nut etc and then add some extra grease before fitting the grease cap. Due to motion of the components, i suspect the grease will find its way around everywhere anyway?

Jordie

#5 RawlinsGTR

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 05:46 PM

In a short answer, no.

It doesn't matter if you get a tiny bit of grease on the CV shaft, some people like to put a tiny amount on that they they can slide the hub onto it. Then they clean it up as best as possible once the hub is on.

Otherwise, just ensure you grease the rollers in the cage fully and properly :)

Edited by Dog., 21 October 2012 - 05:50 PM.


#6 minisilverbullet

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 05:51 PM

Another (maybe stupid) question.

Do I fully assemble the hub with both bearings, seals, oilseal etc and then slide it on.

Or to I wait with everything after the spacer until it is on shaft

#7 tiger99

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 05:54 PM

Grease on the shaft does not matter at all, and may assist assembly, and disassembly later. It is VERY IMPORTANT that the inner race does not move on the shaft, and that is accomplished not by lack of grease but by torquing up the nut properly, following the specified procedure EXACTLY.

The same applies to the drive flange, it must not fret on the splines, and of course is covered by the same torquing procedure, but if you do not grease the splines it may be difficult to remove.

#8 tiger99

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 05:55 PM

Assemble the hub fully, on the bench. It can be fitted to the shaft at the same time as fitting it to the car.

#9 RawlinsGTR

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 05:56 PM

Another (maybe stupid) question.

Do I fully assemble the hub with both bearings, seals, oilseal etc and then slide it on.

Or to I wait with everything after the spacer until it is on shaft


Fully assemble the hub. It's easier that way.

Then go through the correct procedure of ensuring that the hub is seated properly on the shaft. (I assume you know of or have read about this procedure?)

#10 minisilverbullet

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 06:17 PM


Another (maybe stupid) question.

Do I fully assemble the hub with both bearings, seals, oilseal etc and then slide it on.

Or to I wait with everything after the spacer until it is on shaft


Fully assemble the hub. It's easier that way.

Then go through the correct procedure of ensuring that the hub is seated properly on the shaft. (I assume you know of or have read about this procedure?)


Do you mean procedure with the flat washer before I fit the conical split washer?

#11 RawlinsGTR

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 06:18 PM

Do you mean procedure with the flat washer before I fit the conical split washer?


Yup :genius:

#12 minisilverbullet

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 06:21 PM

SO i also grease the spines, Any type of grease do for this?


And another....(sorry guys I want to get this right)


Now fully built up. Outer races fully seated. inner races fully packed (i have sore fingers from working the grease in to prove it)

The spacer between the two outer races, should this be loose? obviously it will move side to side, but should it have space to move up and down

#13 L400RAS

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 06:24 PM

The spacer between the two outer races, should this be loose? obviously it will move side to side, but should it have space to move up and down


Yes mate, it will appear loose. It may need "lifting" with a screwdriver to allow the hub to slide onto the shaft. Once you have seated the bearing correctly ie flat washer as you know, it'll be fine.

#14 minisilverbullet

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 07:32 PM


The spacer between the two outer races, should this be loose? obviously it will move side to side, but should it have space to move up and down


Yes mate, it will appear loose. It may need "lifting" with a screwdriver to allow the hub to slide onto the shaft. Once you have seated the bearing correctly ie flat washer as you know, it'll be fine.


Even the up down (vertical play) will be taken up.....

There is a good 5mm gap ay the moment. Is that normal?

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#15 RawlinsGTR

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 07:38 PM

As long as both outer races have been fully seated in the hub, then that gap is fine.

Are the outer races in as far as you can get them? Flush against the inner lip in the middle of the hub?




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