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Steering Rack Gaiters & Hub Torque


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#1 88MKQ

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 05:55 AM

Combining questions from two issues. Replacing the steering rack boots and rotors/pads simultaneously on my 88 Designer and ran into a few ??'s

Is the rack supposed to be greased or oiled? I read in the orange Leyland book about injecting 1/3 pint of SAE 90 from the drivers side gaiter. There was grease on removal. I want it lubed but don't believe it's wise to mix the grease and oil like that?

And when I tighten the driveshaft nut after replacing the rotor, what's the torque supposed to be? Can't find anything on that. How tight should that nut be?

Thanks in advance!

Clay

#2 Artful Dodger

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 07:15 AM

They are greased. I suppose the oil is just a maintenance thing. But I would always re-pack them with LM grease if I felt that it was gritty.

And at the top of the problems questions and technical section there is a torque settings
thread:). Everything you need is in there

But it's 150lbft. :)

Edited by Artful Dodger, 15 October 2012 - 07:18 AM.


#3 88MKQ

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 03:31 PM

AWESOME! OK thanks! I'll grease them up then. 1/3 pint of oil on only one side didn't make much sense to me.

I did make an effort to find the torque setting before asking, but apparently failed miserably if there's a whole thread for it. :shy:

But still, thanks, mate!
:D :D :D

#4 Cooperman

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 04:15 PM

The rack should have a total of 1/3rd of a pint of EP80 or EP90 gear oil, but a good 40 grade oil will do as well. You only add oil if a gaiter has split or if the rack has been stripped or partially stripped for maintenance.

The hub nut should be about 150 to 180 lb.ft torque, but the term 'very tight' is OK so long as it also fitted with the split pin (should that be 'cotter pin' for you colonials!?). Use a big flat washer under the nut first, do it up really tight, then take the nut off anf fir the coned washer, the retighten very tight and fit the split pin.

#5 jime17

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 05:12 PM

The rack should have a total of 1/3rd of a pint of EP80 or EP90 gear oil, but a good 40 grade oil will do as well. You only add oil if a gaiter has split or if the rack has been stripped or partially stripped for maintenance.


Hi sorry to hijack the topic but am about to change my rack gaitors too. Is multi purpose grease no good? I'm concerned about filling my ear with oil while trying to pour it in and keep it in whilst doing up the straps. Grease would be easier a grease gun. But don't want to use if no good

#6 Cooperman

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 05:24 PM


It is supposed to be oil as it needs to run along the rack, lubricate the pinion and lubricate the inner track rod ends inside the gaiters. You can't get grease in without dismantling the rack and even then you couldn't be sure it was lubricating the correct parts.
If you jack the car up really high on the driver's side and slip the gaiter partly off the end of the rack at the top of the gaiter you can squire the oil in with a long spout oil can. That's why 20w50 or straight 40 grade oil is Often used as it flows better than gear oil.

#7 88MKQ

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 08:46 PM

@Cooperman, yes, they are typically called "cotter pins" here. ;D

So wait, then is greasing the gaiters a bad idea? Since both gaiters were completely off, do I just need to top up the oil?

#8 Cooperman

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 08:50 PM

It's the rack and pinion which needs to be properly lubricated as well as each end. So oil is the correct lubricant and it's really not that difficult to put in so long as you jack the car right up on the driver's side.
You really do not want to risk a rack that is not properly lubricated.

#9 jime17

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 10:17 PM

Is there nothing 20w50 can't do?

except go in my auto mini's engine apparently so the book says anyway. ;-)


Is that a third of a pint each end by the way? or can you pour in two thirds in at one end and it will flow down the rack and even itself out?

Edited by jime17, 15 October 2012 - 10:21 PM.


#10 Cooperman

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 10:29 PM

From memory, and I'll look it up in the original BMC Workshop Manual tomorrow, it's a total of 1/3 pint and it goes in from the driver's end of the rack. It flows through the rack, but I've always put some in the gaiter at the other end as the end rack bush looks as though it prevents easy fluid passage. Just don't overfill it or at full lock it could possibly blow the passenger side gaiter off due to internal pressure. Best oil is EP80 gear oil.

#11 jime17

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Posted 16 October 2012 - 06:20 AM

I guess getting the cable ties really tight is all the more important with oil or it won't stay in long.

#12 Artful Dodger

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Posted 16 October 2012 - 12:52 PM

i have only ever rebuilt mini steering racks, only ever used LM grease. dads been a mechanic for 40 years, rebuilt MANY a classic car rack sing grease, never had a problem :P

to be honest they so well made that as long as there is lubrication and corrosion preventative it doesnt matter what it is :P

and we only ever used the correct metal cables for holding on gaters, you get them from tool suppliers and have to get a tool to fit them. it makes them really tight too and actually grip the gater. we have found that if the gaters have any form of lubrication on them before a cable tie is put on, the tie just slips off after a while :P




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