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Painting A Mini With Hammerite (Brush)


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#1 pbeardmore

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 04:23 PM

My second ever mini I gave a black roof with gloss hammerite. It looked truely dreadful but boy did it provide protection from the big R.
If you can put aside issues with looks (I know that's hard) but on a pure logic and technical basis, what are the down sides to painting a mini with hammerite?
The reason I ask is that I fancy a cheap mini purely for the fun of driving it rather than looks or restoration. After all, once you are inside the car, you cant see what it looks like!

#2 Bungle

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 04:24 PM

would a roller finish not look better ?

#3 Cooperman

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 04:32 PM

The best way to do this if you can't spray the paint on is to use a brushing synthetic paint. As 'Bungle' says, you can use a small roller instead of a brush. Give it 2 coats allowing a few days between coats for it to dry.
Then after about 10 days from applying the final coat rub it down with first 600 grit 'wet & dry' then 1200 'wet & dry'. Then polish it with a good cutting compound such as 'Ferecla', then with a fine compound like 'T-Cut'. Finally polish with a wax polish and it will look as good as a sprayed finish.
That is the sort of method used to paint pre-war Rolls-Royces.

Edited by Cooperman, 01 October 2012 - 04:33 PM.


#4 pbeardmore

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 04:34 PM

OK, thanks for the question, I know its hard but please put asside looks. I know its hard.

#5 Bungle

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 04:48 PM

i used a paint called rustoleum on my camper rollered on and then wet flatted followed by a polish up

Posted Image

if you search the net for rustoleum you should find a lot of info

Edited by Bungle, 01 October 2012 - 04:48 PM.


#6 Skortchio

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 04:54 PM

http://www.theminifo...with-hammerite/

Before cutting and polish:

Posted Image

#7 pbeardmore

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 05:05 PM

if you roller I suppose you use a small brush for the seams etc?

#8 Skortchio

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 05:06 PM

1" Foam brush, aye. A couple of quid for 20!

#9 mini-luke

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 05:30 PM

It'll be a bugger to repaint with celly/2k at a later date without bare metalling it, worth bearing in mind

#10 Ocado Man

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 05:33 PM

Rustoleum combi-colour is the way forward.

This company will mix any colour you like. Just give them the BMLC code & Bob's your Uncle.

http://www.tools-pai...cation._7300MC1

You can spray it on or roller it. White spirit thinning for roller & Combi Thinner for spraying. East peasy. Look at Bungle's thread, he did a fantastic job which inspired me to risk £70 on paint rather than £700 on a spray job at 'mates rates'.

Edited by Ocado Man, 01 October 2012 - 05:35 PM.


#11 Skortchio

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 05:37 PM

It'll be a bugger to repaint with celly/2k at a later date without bare metalling it, worth bearing in mind


Not necessarily, if you use your original paintwork as a base then having it resprayed would only require stripping back to that, assuming the respray was in celly / 2k. I wouldn't suspect waterbased would be reactive but couldn't say for sure.

The other option would be to use a bar coat first.

#12 pbeardmore

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 06:10 PM

So what is wrong with using a brush ? (again, we are not considering looks) surely, a lovely thick layer if Hammerite will give some really good rust proofing, and if I get a scratch, I just paint over it? It takes a leap of imagination but beauty is only skin deep.

Edited by pbeardmore, 01 October 2012 - 06:11 PM.


#13 leroy26

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 06:14 PM

as an alternative to a rat look car it would be fine! i did an old landrover like that and it looked fine completely period so go for it!

#14 Skortchio

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 06:19 PM

So what is wrong with using a brush ? (again, we are not considering looks) surely, a lovely thick layer if Hammerite will give some really good rust proofing, and if I get a scratch, I just paint over it? It takes a leap of imagination but beauty is only skin deep.


It does depend on quite how little you care about the finish. A roller is probably faster in terms of application per coat but you would need at least 3 or 4 coats to provide some level of durability.
With a 10% thin you also end up with a pretty smooth finish, comparable to many factory finishes.

The probaly you will encounter in putting on "a lovely thick coat" is it will take a bloody age to dry, even more so now the weather isn't as clement. From rollering mine a month ago I know that you'll get 2 coats on and dry before 1 thick will be anywhere near the same.
Plus you don't have to worry about runs and drips.

As said that's all academic if you only care about rust prevention.

#15 pbeardmore

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Posted 02 October 2012 - 10:04 AM

OK, well it will look beyond awful, take 3 weeks to dry and add a few pounds weight to the car, but it will never rust, sounds OK to me




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