
Painting A Mini With Hammerite (Brush)
#1
Posted 01 October 2012 - 04:23 PM
If you can put aside issues with looks (I know that's hard) but on a pure logic and technical basis, what are the down sides to painting a mini with hammerite?
The reason I ask is that I fancy a cheap mini purely for the fun of driving it rather than looks or restoration. After all, once you are inside the car, you cant see what it looks like!
#2
Posted 01 October 2012 - 04:24 PM
#3
Posted 01 October 2012 - 04:32 PM
Then after about 10 days from applying the final coat rub it down with first 600 grit 'wet & dry' then 1200 'wet & dry'. Then polish it with a good cutting compound such as 'Ferecla', then with a fine compound like 'T-Cut'. Finally polish with a wax polish and it will look as good as a sprayed finish.
That is the sort of method used to paint pre-war Rolls-Royces.
Edited by Cooperman, 01 October 2012 - 04:33 PM.
#4
Posted 01 October 2012 - 04:34 PM
#5
Posted 01 October 2012 - 04:48 PM

if you search the net for rustoleum you should find a lot of info
Edited by Bungle, 01 October 2012 - 04:48 PM.
#7
Posted 01 October 2012 - 05:05 PM
#8
Posted 01 October 2012 - 05:06 PM
#9
Posted 01 October 2012 - 05:30 PM
#10
Posted 01 October 2012 - 05:33 PM
This company will mix any colour you like. Just give them the BMLC code & Bob's your Uncle.
http://www.tools-pai...cation._7300MC1
You can spray it on or roller it. White spirit thinning for roller & Combi Thinner for spraying. East peasy. Look at Bungle's thread, he did a fantastic job which inspired me to risk £70 on paint rather than £700 on a spray job at 'mates rates'.
Edited by Ocado Man, 01 October 2012 - 05:35 PM.
#11
Posted 01 October 2012 - 05:37 PM
It'll be a bugger to repaint with celly/2k at a later date without bare metalling it, worth bearing in mind
Not necessarily, if you use your original paintwork as a base then having it resprayed would only require stripping back to that, assuming the respray was in celly / 2k. I wouldn't suspect waterbased would be reactive but couldn't say for sure.
The other option would be to use a bar coat first.
#12
Posted 01 October 2012 - 06:10 PM
Edited by pbeardmore, 01 October 2012 - 06:11 PM.
#13
Posted 01 October 2012 - 06:14 PM
#14
Posted 01 October 2012 - 06:19 PM
So what is wrong with using a brush ? (again, we are not considering looks) surely, a lovely thick layer if Hammerite will give some really good rust proofing, and if I get a scratch, I just paint over it? It takes a leap of imagination but beauty is only skin deep.
It does depend on quite how little you care about the finish. A roller is probably faster in terms of application per coat but you would need at least 3 or 4 coats to provide some level of durability.
With a 10% thin you also end up with a pretty smooth finish, comparable to many factory finishes.
The probaly you will encounter in putting on "a lovely thick coat" is it will take a bloody age to dry, even more so now the weather isn't as clement. From rollering mine a month ago I know that you'll get 2 coats on and dry before 1 thick will be anywhere near the same.
Plus you don't have to worry about runs and drips.
As said that's all academic if you only care about rust prevention.
#15
Posted 02 October 2012 - 10:04 AM
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