Hi all sorry if this is been done and covered but I'm looking at getting something to paint onto underside of car, be a combination of rusty metal and then where welded in new pannels new metal I realise this would need me to use por15 metal ready, but then when searching this I found a host of different options so was wondering if could get opinions on those people have used?
Way I see there is :
Por15
Rust bullet
?
Amy more? And any tips, like smaller tins better as doesn't stay in container very well once opened?
Cheers

Por15 Vs Rust Bullet Vs ?
Started by
ad53ggz
, Sep 20 2012 05:26 AM
5 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 20 September 2012 - 05:26 AM
#2
Posted 20 September 2012 - 06:27 AM
I tried Rustoleum on the underside of mine, probably something went wrong with the application but it flaked off.
Now have POR-15 on, also did brother in laws...seems very good, been on 18 month or more
Now have POR-15 on, also did brother in laws...seems very good, been on 18 month or more
#3
Posted 20 September 2012 - 06:57 AM
Cheers, am I correct in that you can apply the marine clean then metal ready to both new clean metal and the rusty bit then paint por15 on top? What about on paint, take it all off?
#4
Posted 20 September 2012 - 07:39 AM
I used por15 and found it to be very watery and not all that great. It finds it hard to stick to smoother metal or sharp corners. I am now using rust bullet, it is a bit more expensive but it is damn good. I bought the clean and etch spray (but to be honest you don't need it if you wire brush the item properly or use sand blasting) standard formula and black shell combo. If you get the stuff on you its like having a tattoo so I warn you to wear gloves!!! And as for hammerite I don't rate it anymore especially by comparison. Hope this helps :)
Regards Blue
Regards Blue
#5
Posted 20 September 2012 - 10:07 AM
Never liked hammerite, always seemed to chip very easily
Por-15 does like a keyed surface to bind to, slightly rusty, or keyed with rough sandpaper first
Por-15 does like a keyed surface to bind to, slightly rusty, or keyed with rough sandpaper first
#6
Posted 20 September 2012 - 10:34 AM
You need to first of all define the two very different products mentioned.
Por15 prep and ready is a rust removing chemical solution. It does leave a semi protective coat on the surface, but it's just meant to remove the rust by chemically dissolving it, leaving a clean rust free surface ready for painting.
Rust Bullet is a rust encapsulator and the easier option, as you just paint it on, but unlike the por15 it produces a chemical reaction between the rust and the paint and turns it a different colour, but all this really does is seal the rust inside the paint stopping the air and moisture getting at it. The rust is still there it doesn't go away you just can't see it.
Por 15 works better if you work the rust first with a wire brush and then just use it to dissolve the hard to get at stuff, plus its great to just leave parts in overnight to clean them, and is the more hard work version, but in the long run the better one.
Personnel I always use por 15 prep and ready since coming across it on the frost website (and no I don't own shares in the company) because when done I know the rust is gone not just covered up by paint.
It will be a case of see which you think is best. Many people like the paints because it's easy, open the can paint it on, and job done, well job done for a short while anyway.
As for the claims of once you use rust bullet it will never rust again, is well crap. Rust is the metal breaking down, an unavoidable natural process and the only way to stop this is not by using some wonder paint, its by adding Oo! I don't know a bit of Nickel, chromium and few other things during manufacture and calling it stainless steel.
As for application yes use both por produsts on the whole panel and remove any paint already on there as chances are the rust has crept under it.
As for final painting I would avoid a brush on paint (even the por range) and use a spray on epoxy or etch primer, both of which stick really well to the bare surface. The problem with brushing paint on is trapping air bubbles in the paint, and your then back to square one with rust forming.
Por15 prep and ready is a rust removing chemical solution. It does leave a semi protective coat on the surface, but it's just meant to remove the rust by chemically dissolving it, leaving a clean rust free surface ready for painting.
Rust Bullet is a rust encapsulator and the easier option, as you just paint it on, but unlike the por15 it produces a chemical reaction between the rust and the paint and turns it a different colour, but all this really does is seal the rust inside the paint stopping the air and moisture getting at it. The rust is still there it doesn't go away you just can't see it.
Por 15 works better if you work the rust first with a wire brush and then just use it to dissolve the hard to get at stuff, plus its great to just leave parts in overnight to clean them, and is the more hard work version, but in the long run the better one.
Personnel I always use por 15 prep and ready since coming across it on the frost website (and no I don't own shares in the company) because when done I know the rust is gone not just covered up by paint.
It will be a case of see which you think is best. Many people like the paints because it's easy, open the can paint it on, and job done, well job done for a short while anyway.
As for the claims of once you use rust bullet it will never rust again, is well crap. Rust is the metal breaking down, an unavoidable natural process and the only way to stop this is not by using some wonder paint, its by adding Oo! I don't know a bit of Nickel, chromium and few other things during manufacture and calling it stainless steel.
As for application yes use both por produsts on the whole panel and remove any paint already on there as chances are the rust has crept under it.
As for final painting I would avoid a brush on paint (even the por range) and use a spray on epoxy or etch primer, both of which stick really well to the bare surface. The problem with brushing paint on is trapping air bubbles in the paint, and your then back to square one with rust forming.

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