907 replies to this topic

[keefr22]

Sounds like an exciting night Dave! And 14th o/a after all that - excellent!!

 

Keith

[rally1380]

Tc 21 -tc22 is where I walked out too, I used to live in Cowan bridge so now that area well as I used to shoot on this land years ago with my air rifle. I walked down to laithbutts farm so you must have gotten stuck just befor me, I watched about 10 cars come through and then started to walk back out along the fields by the side of the road. The code board you missed was halfway up the hill after the second cattle grid, loads were missing it having to dive on and lock up then reverse back for it.

One went past it but had a car behind him also and they also missed it, the car behind reversed for it whereas the lead car stopped, then set off again, but pulled in, turned round and went down the section backwards to get the board, before spinning around again and going through the stage in the correct direction, is that allowable?

I know they are open roads so essentially you should be prepared to meet traffic but I'd of thought traveling the wrong way knowingly through the test would be kind of an unwritten rule?

After I'd watched through this section I walked back out to hipping hall at the end of the lane and set off home, following a saxo in the rally, poor lad got done by the speed camera at Devils bridge, only to find out your next section was at the top of my road at Lupton.

What was happening here dave? As they were all queued up in the bus stop on the side of the A65 and seemed to be setting off at timed intervals and properly going for it in this bit, was it a timed section to get a result in the experts? I nearly walked down the lane to continue watching as I have a fair idea of the lanes you will have used in this section, but it was gone 3 and I had fairly soggy feet too from walking through the fields in the drizzle.

It looked awesome though so looking forward to welding mine back up so the shell has some actual metal content and getting entered into one.

Will you be doing the Devils own event dave?

 

Not really any rules regarding driving against rally traffic but it isn't exactly the norm.  Sometimes at tricky junctions or if crews have gone the wrong way you will encounter cars coming towards you - not an issue in the dark, but sketchy if the sun is coming up!!!

 

The control on the A65 you are asking about was just a standard section start time control.....in fact it was TC25 and the start of the final timed section before MC2 and then petrol.  All standard sections start like this and certainly wasn't a 'special' section to get a result as you described it.  This section wasn't even a dropper and i think we cleaned it and was the section we made it to the end with only 30 seconds to spare.  The dropper sections are ones with rough long whites that see crews unable to maintain a fast enough average speed.

 

I am doing the Devils Own in October - should be in the orange Dolly Sprint i competed in a few years back.  the plan was to drive the event in the mini, but no work on it so won't be ready.

 

Hope the rally has given you inspiration to get the mini built up and have a go? 

Edited by rally1380, 26 July 2016 - 07:27 AM.

[rally1380]

The highs and lows.......

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finally had some time in the garage.....(YEY!)...... to get the mini stripped of everything so I can get the shell looked at. On a 'high', here is a little time lapse clip of me removing the engine....please note, this should have started when the bonnet and everything was on....but numpty here failed to let the software do its thing, so it dumped about an hours worth of images....hence why a few bits are already on the floor!!!!!  idiot!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was a bit of a squeeze getting the engine out but a tickle with the trusty angle grinder and a tweak with the crowbar soon had the engine and subframe out.  Normally i'd lift the engine out from the top and drop the frame down but I thought I might run into clearance issues with the bent bodywork.

 

Here are a few of the damaged bits from the front...........

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Removing the rear cage is always fun and not one swear word was heard (he lied)!!!!!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Every nut, bolt, screw, bracket and cable was removed from the shell and a very reasonable £39 pounds later I had a van for the day so a trip up to Minisport was finally on the cards.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is where the 'low' bit comes in guys and girls........

 

Once unloaded at Minisport, Rob and Baz had a good look around the shell noting down which panels are bent, which are rusty and which look like they are hiding a whole heap of nastiness.  Turns out very little on the car is really worth saving and the bill in panels along is quite a lot (i'm being polite!).  I want the job doing right, so pattern panels are out and heritage is the only way to go, but at 4k's worth of panels it seems a little bit beyond this little cars budget.

 

In reality, if we are being serious about doing a 'proper job' (and that is what I want) the only original panels that would remain would be the roof, the rear seat and the rear panel!!!  Even the rear 3/4's aren't looking too clever!!!!  Boot floor is a bit rotten and the floor has definitely seen better days and has been patched.

 

You all know I didn't want to do this, but it looks like a reshell is a stronger and cheaper proposition.  I'm not on about buying a dodgy ebay 'unfinished project', i'm talking a proper heritage shell and getting a proper roll cage fitted.

 

Ultimately I want as strong a mini to go rallying and I don't think if I repaired my shell that would be the tool for the job.  If I was unfortunate to have a proper off I want the maximum amount of good steel around me and not a load of rust held together with new panels.  If I want the car to last, and have a toy my son can use when he is old enough to do a bit of motorsport then a new shell, properly looked after is probably the only way to go.

 

As much as I hate admitting I was wrong, I think this time I was            

Edited by rally1380, 09 August 2016 - 03:13 PM.

[keefr22]

I think a Heritage shell is a very wise decision Dave. While our shell isn't that bad, I bet if it were fully stripped there'd be a lot more bits we wouldn't be happy with - & if those lottery numbers ever came up we'd definitely treat it to a new Heritage shell! But that's never going to happen....

 

Are you staying with a Clubby shell?

 

Looking forward to watching the build!

 

ATB

 

Keith

[mini-geek]

I'd be shopping around there is more than MiniSport in the world..

[rally1380]

Hi Keith.

Definitely staying with a clubman shell whatever happens. Only gripe would be they don't make them to take twin bolt front subframes....shame as I've got a spare!!! But I can save that for my other project.

Suppose another detail that would be missing is the period drip rails along the roof gutters but they are just a moisture and rust trap so can live without them.

Still a bit bummed out about the whole thing as I certainly didn't want to go down this route. I've got to think ahead though and build the car of my dreams and not be too precious about nostalgia. Had it been restored properly when it was done 15 or so years back I would probably have more metal to play with....doing what I'm 90% sure that I will end up doing means I can ensure I stay competing and solid for many many more years and safer if I ever had another accident.

[James_eaton_thewholething]

Will be totally worth the re shell though. To be honest I'm wishing I had done a re shell. Cannot wait to see it back to glory

[rally1380]

I'd be shopping around there is more than MiniSport in the world..

I'm well aware of that, but to be honest the panels they pointed out that needed replacing I agree with and I want the job doing right so it will last. It's pointless doing half a job now and leaving rusting panels in place, only for me to need to cut them out in the future.

The complete floor needs doing, as does the boot floor as that was bodged when it was supposedly restored a while back.....it wasn't!

Next up is the front bulkhead, windscreen surround, inner and outer wings plus a and front panel. The rear 3/4's have rot in them too.

So whether I go to minisport or not, you can appreciate there is a fair amount of rot to contend with if I'm going to do this properly and so financially it is probably a no go.

But I am open to suggestions?

[James_eaton_thewholething]

By the time it's been repaired with everything and the time it will take a new shell is the best idea

[slidehammer]

I think re-shell, given the hammering it is going to get in competition. if you were really bother / could bear to do it to a new shell you can convert to twin bolt mounting M-Machine do end cross member repair sections and the drip rails are available to retro fit. Also whilst the new shell is bear you could add strengthening to aid in its competition life.

[GraemeC]

I run a twin bolt subframe in a later shell, admittedly only a road car though. My feeling was that the strengthening around the single bolt provides enough support to stop twin bolts deforming the cross member.
For competition use I would possibly drill larger than needed and then weld tubes in for the bolts to pass through - which is essentially what the earlier cross member had.

The earlier frames also lead to less toe board cracking as they are secured in two different planes - I've often though about making solid rear mounts for later frames to replicate the bolt the through the floor and not just through the toe board.

As for drip rails - easily retrofitted and readily available.

[rally1380]

No real progress apart from a deposit put down on the new shell.............yes yes, I know I could buy a car to use a donor but I don't want to go down that route as a) it is dodgy! and b) there is zero guarantee that it won't be rotten as a pear anyway and might need a good few grand of panels thrown at it to get it up to scratch.  By starting with a fresh zero rust shell I can extend the life of the shell so my son can enjoy the car in the future and if....or should that read 'when'.......I go stage rallying, if I have a big accident I have a good shell around me........case closed.

 

 

Had a little nosey around the Clwyd Vale website to see who is entered in the Vale of Clwyd Classic this year and low and behold I spotted a little car starring back at me on the home page..........

 

 

 

 

Obviously very nice to see but made me a little sad looking at it, but rest assured Barry will ride again.......to be continued

[keefr22]

I think you're very wise with that decision Dave! Going to go for a  multi point weld in cage this time?

 

Good luck with Barry's rebuild!

 

Keith

 

PS, I know it's off topic, but any news on the green machine?

Edited by keefr22, 31 August 2016 - 03:04 PM.

[rally1380]

I think you're very wise with that decision Dave! Going to go for a  multi point weld in cage this time?

 

Good luck with Barry's rebuild!

 

Keith

 

PS, I know it's off topic, but any news on the green machine?

 

Yes to weld in cage.  Not sure which one or who is fitting it yet....I really want a harness bar as level as you can get with the shoulders in the rear section and some I've seen rely on a much lower anchor point (hope that makes sense) and I don't want an extra bolt on harness bar.  There is a bloke local to me who is a superb motorsport welder so may call and see him.  Other option so far is the Safety devices cage but having seen a car at Minisport with one fitted i'm not a huge fan of how low the door bars sit....bit sketchy in a side impact maybe? 

 

Interestingly I've just been discussing T45 cages with Rob at Minisport and also a few crash pictures I've seen over the past week.  Seems T45 cages can be very brittle and snap!!!!!  Anyone got any views?

 

Green machine.........here is the something special   ready for the rebuild .........

 

 

[thetrev.com]

If you want a cage or advise speak to Endaf Owens at Owens Motorsport his work is top notch https://www.facebook...cation/?fref=ts