907 replies to this topic

[rally1380]

Fancy rebuilding ours too Dave....you can paint it any colour you want ??!!  

 

In all fairness it is very straight forward once all the seized bolts are released and you've almost squashed your foot with the flywheel!!!

 

The big skill is setting it all up to run right and not rip itself apart in the first 1000 mile (if it gets that far!).  The bores on this block are starting to show the signs of having enough, and thanks to the previous owner insisting on 1380cc, the block is scrap when the next rebuild comes about  .  I know it can be sleeved, but I hate to think how much that will set me back....lucky i've got a spare 1293 that can be the startings of a 1310cc.

Edited by rally1380, 06 August 2014 - 04:38 PM.

[rally1380]

Things are progressing....

 

Did a bit of Cam timing and with my current (old) timing chain it was 2 degrees out....not bad for a chain thats taken a bit of stick!

 

Decided to order a new duplex chain as they are only £5ish and might give me back those 2 degrees - failing that i'll be placing another order with minispares.

 

Whilst measuring 'stuff' i'm checking the Idler gear endfloat - cleaned transfer case and opened my gearbox crate - can't quite understand why i've waited so long to have a look, but I think in the back of my mind I was convinced that if i opened it, I would probably ruin the box with grit and dust.

 

Enjoy the lovely rebuilt box with bling centre oil pickup pipe and in the background a 4 pin diff.....can't wait to send all the power through this Guessworks bad boy!!!!  I know it's not a straight cut LSD monster....but budget wouldn't allow, and you really don't need it anyway - heavy right foot makes up for it!!!!!

 

[rally1380]

Had a day of engine fettling - why is it that small simple things take the longest to sort out? 

 

Example 1 is camshaft endfloat.  Brand new cam, brand new cam shells, brand new oil pump, and fairly new timing gears and brand new chain - result is an endfloat of 12 thou!!  Haynes manual spec an endfloat of 3 - 7 thou so figures 12 was a bit on the 'relaxed' side.

 

Don't have a lathe to hand (wish I did) so a wet stone and a bucket of elbow grease later gave me a an endfloat of 5 thou - that'll do! 

 

 

I decided to have a look at my 'spare' engine so whipped the timing chain cover off that one to have a look and see what bits i could rob for the orange engine.  The timing chain on the old engine had sooo much slack in it i could almost remove it without taking the gears off.  Not sure how old this engine is, but the gears are similar to my current ones but far lighter!!!  Was tempted to swap them over and fit them to the satsuma engine, but decided to stick with the devil I know and a brand new chain.  removed a few shims from the crank that came in useful. Will rebuild this engine when I get time (never gonna happen!)

 

 

All sorted at timing chain end after remeasuring cam timing, so I swapped over to the other end to measure the primary gear endfloat and discovered this horror!!! 

 

 

Think i've found the cause of the clutch failure!!!!

[GraemeC]

Maybe my diagnosis on page 25 wasn't far off then! It might not have seized, but I bet it jammed itself up with no end float left.

[rally1380]

Maybe my diagnosis on page 25 wasn't far off then! It might not have seized, but I bet it jammed itself up with no end float left.

 

Definately!!! Looks like it's twisted itself and as you say - ran out of endfloat. 

 

Didn't notice this when I first stripped the engine - as I said it was moving freely when cool. It's only now that i've started checking the flywheel end that i noticed it.  I'm hoping it will be a simple enough fix as i'm running out of time with a rally on its way!!!

[GraemeC]

I take it straight cut?
Don't jump straight in with the floating bush as an easy fix, they are if the gear is one that will work with them but not all are as they can block the oil holes. Post up a pic of the gear without the bush in and let's have a look.

[rally1380]

I was under the impression that mine being a Pre A+ helical it would be ok?  No straight cuts here as i value my hearing and from what people say they're just not worth bothering with as the power drop you experience using helical can be overcome by taking a brave pill and keeping yer foot in!!!! Plus SC's are expensive and no stronger.

 

here's a photo of the gear without bush.

 

[GraemeC]

Hmm, it doesn't look like there is enough of a lip or shoulder to stop a floating bush from covering the oil holes, I'd be cautious.
I'd also be careful that the gear hasn't worn over size as you'll never keep a fixed bush in it if it has.

I don't find SC that noisy. They're probably on stronger by being a better material, by not by design. However they don't create side load like helical so are much kinder on the casings.

[rally1380]

Hmm, it doesn't look like there is enough of a lip or shoulder to stop a floating bush from covering the oil holes, I'd be cautious.
I'd also be careful that the gear hasn't worn over size as you'll never keep a fixed bush in it if it has.

I don't find SC that noisy. They're probably on stronger by being a better material, by not by design. However they don't create side load like helical so are much kinder on the casings.

 

Are Primary gears mated to the drop gears or are they interchangeable?

 

Only asking as i've got another A series which i'm stripping and got that primary gear to use too. Both bushes in that one are toast, but maybe the actual gear is in better condition.  Failing that, how can i determine if this current gear is not useable?

[GraemeC]

They should be interchangeable as long as they are both 'A' - Guessworks would tell you better.
I don't know what the bore size is, again GW might. I just know from experience I had a floating bush seize on the crank but the gear still span on the bush happily, then I fit a normal bush to that gear and is span and walked out, again seizing to the crank. Caused me all sorts of grief and head scratching.

[rally1380]

They should be interchangeable as long as they are both 'A' - Guessworks would tell you better.
I don't know what the bore size is, again GW might. I just know from experience I had a floating bush seize on the crank but the gear still span on the bush happily, then I fit a normal bush to that gear and is span and walked out, again seizing to the crank. Caused me all sorts of grief and head scratching.

 

Many thanks for the heads up....will get in touch with John and see what he says.

[RODZMINI71]

Very impressive, I'd hurry up tho good buddy !! Lots of shaking and a rolling needed before the Rally.

[rally1380]

Very impressive, I'd hurry up tho good buddy !! Lots of shaking and a rolling needed before the Rally.

 

Ha ha....cheers!!!!  I thought the 'leaving it til the last minute' style was very fashionable this year with north wales mini's!!!!!!

[rally1380]

Primary gear all sorted thanks to a visit to Jim at R.A.C.E motorsport oop int Chorley...thankyou to GraemeC for pointing me in that direction.  Discovered in the interim that I actually had a 30 tooth 'economy' primary fitted....swapped it out for a standard 29 toothed version to gain a little more acceleration.

 

Whilst at R.A.C.E i got my hands on some 1275 pressed steel rockers so i can throw away my sintered ones.  Just couldn't bring myself to shell out on 1.5 ratio forged ones....£150 seems alot to spend on a couple of horsepower!!!  Will drink plenty of redbull and drive like a loon instead!!!! Polished up the pads, swapped the shaft and welded the seams to add to the strength as recommended in Vizards' bible.

 

 

Whilst putting together my new lightened flywheel, orange diaphagm and clutch plate i discovered (whilst comparing it to my 1293 engine) that the flywheel that was in the car was also a lightened one - an oldschool job.  So i shelled out on a minispares lightened unit for no reason!!!!  Note to self - always check what you've got before stuffing it under the bench and placing an order!!!  I've got another one for a spare engine, so not all bad.  Also modified the clutch housing with a slot on the lowest of bolt holes so if a clutch decides to fail in the future it will make life a little easier!!!!

 

Enough of the waffle - here's where i've got to, and will be installing it tomorrow......

 

 

Supposed to be going to Oulton park's Goldcup on the weekend in the mini.....best get a move on eh!!!!!

[keefr22]

Black rocker cover would set it off nicely Dave.....!!