26 replies to this topic

[Minidarren83]

Hi there as above really I want to roller paint my mini mainly for the experience as I have the means to spray but am worried about how durable it will be so would I be able to to flat polish the whole colour coat down so that it has a perfect surface finish and then shoot with 1k or celly clears? And would this give a decent finish that would not need constant polishing like celly does?

I was thinking of using an enamel based paint like rustoleum for the base up to five+ coats and then some upol RFU 1k clear would I get any reaction from this?

Cheers Darren

[jakejakejake1]

There is a roller painting thread around here somewhere with 10+ pages, and I believe when finished some of the guys will be clear coating their cars, so it may be worth reading through that thread.

[new_zealand _minis]

why not just 2k spray it . get enough paint on there to do what you want . will last for ages

[joewf10]

my dad roller painted his vw camper, took some time rubbing down and doing it again because you need it not to thick or thin, because you might end up with an 'orange peel effect'

with some time spent though its worth it :)

[iMurray]

my dad roller painted his vw camper, took some time rubbing down and doing it again because you need it not to thick or thin, because you might end up with an 'orange peel effect'

with some time spent though its worth it :)

Nobody likes a car with cellulite... ;)

[joewf10]

my dad roller painted his vw camper, took some time rubbing down and doing it again because you need it not to thick or thin, because you might end up with an 'orange peel effect'

with some time spent though its worth it :)

Nobody likes a car with cellulite... ;)

hahahah

[Minidarren83]

why not just 2k spray it . get enough paint on there to do what you want . will last for ages

It was my first choice to go with 2k but on a right budget and due to the roller method wasting no paint when thinned I can get the whole car done inside and out with 2.5ltr and for a third of the price of 2k including 5ltr of upol clear and all matter idle needed I could paint my car for around £110 ok it may take a whole to get the paint on but it's got to be worth the saving

[Minidarren83]

There is a roller painting thread around here somewhere with 10+ pages, and I believe when finished some of the guys will be clear coating their cars, so it may be worth reading through that thread.

I've been watching closely but they are using dulux trade paint not really my kind of thing just need to know if I would get a reaction out of 1k lacquer on top of enamel type paints don't fancy buying all the gear to try it out and find it won't work together

[miniQ]

Spraying 2K paint costs alot of £

Just for minimum PPE (Personal protective equipment) costs £100+
Correct PPE costs £180 (that's if you have a suitable compressor to run an airfed mask and paint gun)

+ you can't just go and spray it in any old garage in the middle of your neiborhood...

cheaper and less hazards if its iso-cynate free but still costs alot




Do it right or don't do it at all.

You can do a great cheap job with roll-on paint. Just requires alot of time and patience when preparing and sanding between coats which isn't required when spraying.

I was laughing watching that video but he did a nice job

Edited by miniQ, 28 August 2012 - 04:08 PM.

[Skortchio]

2k and celly with both react violently with enamel or solvent based paints.

I'm currently looking into compatible clear coats for peace of mind but in terms of daily drive durability you really won't need more than rusto if roller painting. It's a proven approach with great lasting, plus if you do pick up a ding then the repair is a doddle compared to trying to blend sprayed paint.

All the info on rolling is in the other thread, but you don't need to flat back between coats. Just a fast rub over with 400grit to remove any dust / flies that have got stuck while the paint dries.
Prep is the same as any paint job, do it right and the end result will be great. Skimp on it and no matter what you coat it in, it'll look tosh

It does require a lot of time for a decent job though, you can only realistically apply 1 coat a day to allow drying time. Some have squeezed in 2 a day but your timing is tight and there's room for horrow stories if the paint is a little tacky still.

Assuming 5-8 coats, that's 5-8 days plus your prep time. Laying the paint on hardly takes any time at all though.

[Minidarren83]

I've seen a upol 1k ready to use clear coat that says it works with most paint systems I wonder if a quick email to the manufacturer would be able to tell if it will go over rustoleum

[Skortchio]

Seems a good option, might be worth finding the active chems in rusto and including that in the mail.

[Minidarren83]

There is a paint place near me that will mix enamel based paint to any ral colour maybe worth I trip to them to see if they can suggest a clear coat for it. It's the easiest solution and I knew it I was just being lazy not to go down there lol and hoping someone on here would have the answer

[Skortchio]

Yeah that sounds a much better approach, I'm looking for a clear coat that's compatible with the dulux as I'll no doubt knock the crap out of the doors and boot with my chair so some extra protection wouldn't hurt.

Let us know what you find out.

[new_zealand _minis]

i dont see a point in using paint systems that are so freekin old .

1k, enamel , etc

2 pac systems are hardy as hell ans will last way longer than any 1k systems . all these steps of rolling sanding etc . just seem to eat up time ..

if you rush 1k systems it will just sink back look rubbish

why pay not mcuh for it all then have it all turn crap in a few years time . spend bit more now and have a good paint job for 10years +

you dont need to be a good painter to spray 2k on thick enough to sand it back a buff it . .

done , no clear finished

the only thing really needed with 2 pac is this http://www.ebay.co.u...=item5ae6d83247

Edited by new_zealand _minis, 29 August 2012 - 08:01 AM.