23 replies to this topic

[dave-88_123]

when refering to cracking we meen where the two panels are smoothed so no seam is visible cannot be done by filler alone if restoring the seam to original then yes flexable seam sealer is needed it depends what look your going for

Edited by dave-88_123, 19 August 2012 - 08:50 PM.

[Tomm]

As far as the standard of work goes I would say well done.

As other people have said though filler sinks, cracks, falls out and is in general a horrible thing to use. That said when I was younger (many years go) i smoothed my boot with filler, I must have used about 15 kilos of the stuff and that is how I learnt my lesson

Filler should be used in tiny tiny amounts, I now use it as an absolute last resort and avoid it at all costs.

You may not have any problems with this for weeks, maybe even months and if it does go, you already have some skills to develop.

Well done for getting your hands in there, so many people are not keen to do these sorts of things!

[tomb1992]

As far as the standard of work goes I would say well done.

As other people have said though filler sinks, cracks, falls out and is in general a horrible thing to use. That said when I was younger (many years go) i smoothed my boot with filler, I must have used about 15 kilos of the stuff and that is how I learnt my lesson

Filler should be used in tiny tiny amounts, I now use it as an absolute last resort and avoid it at all costs.

You may not have any problems with this for weeks, maybe even months and if it does go, you already have some skills to develop.

Well done for getting your hands in there, so many people are not keen to do these sorts of things!

Thanks Aprechiate the complement haha yer i actually enjoyed doing it surprising how little you need when you get the hang of spreading it and mixing it. i didnt find working on my old Pug that interesting but i like been able to get my hands messy with my mini. i got ride of the main scabby part of the wing if not the seams. so just a chance to get it right thanks the the Comments.

[new_zealand _minis]

as said . no point putting bog over rust . or treated rust . its just going to come back .

to smoothe weld then bog , to seal as said hard drying flexi sealer .

and whos the person that said you have to remove the paint befor filler ? need to find a better scorce for your info

[corrado vr6]

It's best practice to remove paint before filler, as filler sticks better to bare metal imagine filling over paint then slamming yr door and watching that lump of filler fall out because the surface was to smooth for it to adhear properly, I'd imagine if you read the container it would say to remove paint

[tomb1992]

as said . no point putting bog over rust . or treated rust . its just going to come back .

to smoothe weld then bog , to seal as said hard drying flexi sealer .

and whos the person that said you have to remove the paint befor filler ? need to find a better scorce for your info

Right ok as ive said im only just starting, besides its my run around im not planning on making some 100% perfect show car.the cars strucutaly sound dont see the point in welding up a tiny seam, i sanded the wing area down so that i can see the damage and give somthing for the filier to stick to like in most repairs involving filler.

[dave-88_123]

filler should go on bare metal rather than paint when its possible everthing i work on at work has the paint sanded back and it was the same at a previous bodyshop i worked at its not that important if doing small repairs like carpark dings

[new_zealand _minis]

it will look good for a few days then you will see it will crack then you wont be happy with it . thats why theres no point doing it that way

if its 1k paint them im all for removing it .. if its 2k there not reason why you have to remove it bog will stick to it no problem . and you have a layer to stop moisture getting at the steel .. apart from getting rid od rust thats there

[1984mini25]

what you could do if you still want the smooth look and i've personaly done this to one mine, but the seams were welded for extra strength being a flip front.
Firstly I'd rough up, remove paint and rust with a sanding pad on a grinder. Next mix up p38 and p40 together in equal amounts and then add the harder. Thus giving you a fibre paste and filler combo that won't crack and is sandable. Then normal filler, primer and paint to finish.