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How To Change Gear Selector Oil Seal (With Photos)


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#31 Steve8274

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 09:50 PM

Will be using this guide in future.
(Just commenting so I can find it easier in future)

#32 fenghuang

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Posted 11 March 2015 - 06:58 PM

Three things to add having just done the job.

First, there are two roll pins in the collar on the linkage. Remove the one nearest the engine.
I made that mistake and it was a PITA.

Second, there won't always be a metal ring to remove as well as a plastic oil seal.
Having removed the oil seal, see how far you can get a thin screwdriver into the recess around the rod sticking out of the gearbox. If you can get it in around 3/4" then there is no metal ring to remove. (This was confirmed for me by Mini Spares who I got the repair kit from.

Third, I think the correct roll pin punch has a pin in the centre which locates into the roll pin. I used a parallel punch and until I'd pushed the pin a reasonable way through, it bounced out of place every time I hit it with a hammer. Another PITA. If info it again I'll definitely pay the few quid for the right tool.

#33 Luxton72

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Posted 12 March 2015 - 11:11 PM

To change the aluminum seal , I drilled a hole in Aluminum seal ring ( abit tight to get in there) then loosened with a pick by turning it and with a blow jet off a compressor blew through hole .the seal Pops out . No leaks after refit

#34 DFulton

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Posted 12 March 2015 - 11:44 PM


My casing is damaged here, any ways to fix it?
I think that fitting 2 seals would cure the poroblem ( the damage is only 3 mm deep orso, but I have the anti leak thing fitted atm.
If I would be sure that fitting 2 seals would work I 'd get the alluminium piece out..
Opinions? ;)

 
zksdnm.jpg

My casing was damaged too and there was a slight oil leak. I put in new seals and, at the suggestion of my Father in Law, smeared a small amount of silicone sealant round the outer edge of the rubber seal.
I'm sure it's not an orthodox solution (and there are probably lots of people rolling their eyes at this point) but I can say the leak hasn't come back and it's at least four years since I did it.

#35 lawrie124

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Posted 13 March 2015 - 06:05 AM

A trick I learnt is to put a thin cable tie through each of the two roll pins.

Might save a lot of grief one day!

#36 fenghuang

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Posted 13 March 2015 - 08:13 AM

How do the cable ties help? If the pins are in a good enough condition, they shouldn't work their way out. And I can't think of a way they'd help getting the pins out. #scratchinghead

#37 lawrie124

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Posted 13 March 2015 - 09:34 AM

How do the cable ties help? If the pins are in a good enough condition, they shouldn't work their way out. And I can't think of a way they'd help getting the pins out. #scratchinghead


Will make sure they stay in.

Agreed they should not work their way out, but it's a precaution.

#38 fenghuang

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Posted 13 March 2015 - 04:46 PM

Considering how much effort it took to get mine back in, and how thin a cable tie it would take to get it through the roll pin, I'd be surprised if one had enough strength to be effective. Perhaps sone of the lock wire racers have to use on fasteners would be more effective if you want belt and braces.




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