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How To Change Gear Selector Oil Seal (With Photos)


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#16 rotherham

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Posted 26 August 2012 - 10:20 PM

Good guide I'm gunna do this while the engines out

#17 miniallsort

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Posted 27 August 2012 - 12:09 PM

nice guide mate i fitted 2 seals on mine yesterday

#18 joecefnhedog

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Posted 17 February 2014 - 11:38 PM

so do you have to drain the oil out to refit a metal and rubber seal? as i only recently changed my oil >_<  thanks



#19 Gremlin

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Posted 17 February 2014 - 11:47 PM

so do you have to drain the oil out to refit a metal and rubber seal? as i only recently changed my oil >_<  thanks

Drain it into a clean tray?

#20 joecefnhedog

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Posted 18 February 2014 - 01:10 AM

ok, so it will leak if i disconnect the selector and remove the seals? sorry i'm new to this. thanks 



#21 cal844

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Posted 18 February 2014 - 10:28 AM

yes it will leak... have a clean recepticle of approx 5 litres handy



#22 A-Cell

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Posted 18 February 2014 - 11:20 AM

...also advisable to fit a new roll pin at the same time.

#23 finch661

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Posted 17 March 2014 - 08:21 AM

thanks for the guide, helped a lot at the weekend. I have removed the gear selector pins before, but this was the first time i bout the correct tool. cant stress enough on using the propper tool, mine came out in about 3 hits of the hammer!

to get the old seal out, i used a thick self tapping screw and screwed it inbetween the selector rod and the seal (instead of drilling a hole), it just popped out. To put the new seal in, i found that i couldnt get enough clearance to use a socket and hammer, so i used the roll pin tool and tapped it into place!



#24 Captain Mainwaring

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Posted 17 March 2014 - 08:46 AM

 

so do you have to drain the oil out to refit a metal and rubber seal? as i only recently changed my oil >_<  thanks

Drain it into a clean tray?

 

 

 

I know oil may be expensive but I wouldn't ever bother doing that.



#25 Thilemann

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Posted 17 March 2014 - 09:36 AM

Great guide. And damn. After reading this i just realized i forgot to put the long rubber thing on, after i changed the seal. I'm doing a rebuild, and had to put gear selector back on quickly, because i had to remove it from the lift. So had to take it out of gear. lol.



#26 Dan

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Posted 17 March 2014 - 10:28 AM

thanks for the guide, helped a lot at the weekend. I have removed the gear selector pins before, but this was the first time i bout the correct tool. cant stress enough on using the propper tool, mine came out in about 3 hits of the hammer!

to get the old seal out, i used a thick self tapping screw and screwed it inbetween the selector rod and the seal (instead of drilling a hole), it just popped out. To put the new seal in, i found that i couldnt get enough clearance to use a socket and hammer, so i used the roll pin tool and tapped it into place!

 

 

  I would not say thats a great way to pull the seal.  If the screw scratches or nicks the shaft it will never seal again.  You should put a screw straight into the seal itself or use a pick, running a screw against the shaft may lead to damage.  So the screw must be small enough to fit into the annular space between the shaft and housing without touching either surface.



#27 finch661

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Posted 17 March 2014 - 10:58 AM

 

thanks for the guide, helped a lot at the weekend. I have removed the gear selector pins before, but this was the first time i bout the correct tool. cant stress enough on using the propper tool, mine came out in about 3 hits of the hammer!

to get the old seal out, i used a thick self tapping screw and screwed it inbetween the selector rod and the seal (instead of drilling a hole), it just popped out. To put the new seal in, i found that i couldnt get enough clearance to use a socket and hammer, so i used the roll pin tool and tapped it into place!

 

 

  I would not say thats a great way to pull the seal.  If the screw scratches or nicks the shaft it will never seal again.  You should put a screw straight into the seal itself or use a pick, running a screw against the shaft may lead to damage.  So the screw must be small enough to fit into the annular space between the shaft and housing without touching either surface.

 

i would have though that the rubber seal would give in before the steel (the selector)? there was no damage to the selector when the seal was removed.



#28 Dusky

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Posted 17 March 2014 - 08:30 PM

My casing is damaged here, any ways to fix it?
I think that fitting 2 seals would cure the poroblem ( the damage is only 3 mm deep orso, but I have the anti leak thing fitted atm.
If I would be sure that fitting 2 seals would work I 'd get the alluminium piece out..
Opinions? ;)
 
zksdnm.jpg


#29 Dusky

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 05:35 PM

or is this casing sold.somwhere?

#30 moonet1

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 06:49 PM

Thanks! Great Topic which came in very useful this weekend when I changed the oil seal on my British open Classic. Check out the photos of what the previous owner did to the alloy bush behind the seal. No wonder it leaked!

 

 

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