How To Change Gear Selector Oil Seal (With Photos)
#1
Posted 16 August 2012 - 08:23 PM
I fixed my gear selector oil seal after work today, never done it before but it ended up being fairly easy. I took some photos whilst I did it which I thought somebody might find useful. I used this kit from minispares. http://www.minispare...06.aspx|Back to
First step is to remove the pin that joins the shaft to the selector rod. Just the one nearest gearbox needs removing, although the other is half out in the photo so shows it well. I used this tool here which made it so much easier, well recommended.
http://www.minispare...16.aspx|Back to
I removed the joining part completely but it can be left on the selector rod. Here is a picture showing the old seal.
I then removed this old seal and inner metal ring, I used a thin kitchen knife for this. I rammed it down the side of them with a hammer and wiggled them both out. Worked for me but there is probably a better way.
I then fitted the replacements from the mini spares kit. Metal first and then the seal with the open bit facing inwards. I used a spark plug socket and slowly tapped them in using this over the shaft.
Here is the new grommet fitted in place, a good seal and tight fit.
The kit also comes with a rubber gaiter for the shaft to stop dirt getting the new seal. I smeared vasoline all other the seal and then placed this gaiter on top.
Then is just a case of joining the shaft with the selector rod. Lining up the hole in the shaft and inserting the pin, tapping it in with a hammer.
Here is the finished result and hopefully no more leak from here.
This is a fairly straight forward job that most people have done before but hopefully this guide comes in useful to someone who has never tackled this before.
#2
Posted 16 August 2012 - 08:47 PM
#3
Posted 16 August 2012 - 09:09 PM
#4
Posted 16 August 2012 - 09:09 PM
The mods might want to consider putting this in the FAQ section, as it is very useful.
#5
Posted 16 August 2012 - 09:12 PM
#6
Posted 16 August 2012 - 09:30 PM
#7
Posted 16 August 2012 - 09:40 PM
#8
Posted 16 August 2012 - 09:45 PM
Good idea, I am not sure it would work on the seal that I found in there as it had a metal piece built into the seal ( seemed strange compared to the new one and it took a while to get out) but that would be great for the new seal that is only rubber with a spring. I've heard of people drilling a small hole in the metal piece but this seems quite a hard way considering the space under there.
It's quite a satisfying feeling knowing that oil shouldn't seep out of there now. I left my car in a friend's garage for a couple of weeks and when i went to collect it there was oil on the floor.. When I got home and checked the drive I realised that it had been doing this for a while.
Fingers crossed no more spots on my drive and maybe my friend will let me store it there again!
#9
Posted 16 August 2012 - 10:26 PM
#10
Posted 20 August 2012 - 01:18 PM
#11
Posted 20 August 2012 - 08:38 PM
Personally I think if you were just replacing the rubber seal you could get away with leaving the oil in as the there isn't much room for it to leak out of and if it's leaking chances are the rubber seal is not doing much anyway.
If you are doing the metal ring also then I would drain the oil as when you remove that it could get quite messy.
#12
Posted 20 August 2012 - 08:40 PM
#13
Posted 20 August 2012 - 08:44 PM
#14
Posted 26 August 2012 - 08:54 PM
I know it makes little difference but after going to the effort and time in replacing head gasket, relapping valves, replacing valve stems etc in my mind it would be a shame not to change the oil too while I am at it but maybe that's just my feeling. I would have the image of all that dirty oil covering my de-coked cylinder head
Glad the guide seems useful
#15
Posted 26 August 2012 - 08:57 PM
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