35 replies to this topic

[minidaves]

take it off put it in a vice, never had 1 that wont come undone. tight yes not budged never

[tiger99]

I agree. I have a good solid vice, sadly without a garage to put it in at the moment (garage coming eventually, and then hopefully another Mini), and it works wonders when it is solidly mounted to a substantial bench.

I used a large ring spanner, and if necessary whacked the end with a 4 lb. hammer.

"Record" vices are the common, and probably, best industrial brand, although most of the stuff readily available these days is fragile Chinese junk. I don't know how much a genuine Record would cost new, if you can still get them, but they take lots of abuse without complaining.

[Big_Adam]

I'm still suggesting hitting it with a large ring spanner, always worked for me.

[UBSTANKN]

Just a general addition to what others have said above, shock and unlock from halfords can be a god send. I was a bit sceptical before I used it but it has got stuff off that refuses other ways and you can use it where you wouldn't use heat such as by fuel pipes etc

Hmm. Not sure they sell that here in the colonies. I bought a product that was highly recommended online called PB Blaster. It made a world of difference getting the hub nut off but no amount of the stuff would get the ball joint loose.

Where you located?? I got a battery gun that should (normally) be strong enough to un do that, failing that put the balljoint end in the vice jaws, a nice big leaver bar throu the bearing hole makin sure you don't damage anything, didn't matter to much in my case as I pulled all the bearings out, and try it that way

About 3,000 miles from you, give or take a couple hundred :-D I'm in New Jersey in the US. You're more than welcome to come here for a spirited weekend of Mini repairs. I'll even treat you to a Yankees game for your effort.

I agree. I have a good solid vice, sadly without a garage to put it in at the moment (garage coming eventually, and then hopefully another Mini), and it works wonders when it is solidly mounted to a substantial bench.

I used a large ring spanner, and if necessary whacked the end with a 4 lb. hammer.

"Record" vices are the common, and probably, best industrial brand, although most of the stuff readily available these days is fragile Chinese junk. I don't know how much a genuine Record would cost new, if you can still get them, but they take lots of abuse without complaining.

I'm still suggesting hitting it with a large ring spanner, always worked for me.

I haven't been able to find anyone here that sells a big enough ring spanner, although I believe in the US they are referred to as box wrenches. Either way, I've never come across one big enough in the stores. I did notice that was the preferred tool of Haynes and it would be immensely helpful because then I could relocate the ball joint back into the suspension arm and stop the whole hub assembly from moving.

I think I am going to need to resort to using a table vise or taking the assembly to a mechanic and see if they can use the impact wrench on it. Unfortunately I'm not sure I have anywhere to mount a good table vice.

Thanks for all the great advice so far. I will have to keep everyone updated on my progress. I'm not sure when I'll have enough time to get back outside to work on it.

-Mike

[dklawson]

Mike, find the nearest agricultural supply store and see what they have for box ends. However, if you have an impact wrench and compressor, it will work wonders on taking that nut off. Still... you will find it infinitely easier to handle the rest of the ball joint repair/replacement with the hub in a vice.

That "Shock and Unlock" mentioned above is probably freeze spray. I think Permatex/Loctite make a similar product.

P.B. Blaster has a better reputation than it deserves. Liquid Wrench really does work better (car club tests have shown this). Another possibility that is better still is the homemade penetrant made from a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Me... I use Liquid Wrench or Kroil

EDIT: Mike, I Googled it. The freeze spray I was thinking up is made by CRC and sold under the name "Freeze Off". It is sold at o'Reilly and AutoZone stores... probably others also.

Edited by dklawson, 07 August 2012 - 01:56 AM.

[Big_Adam]

http://www.ebay.com/...ion=1&_osacat=0

Be cheaper from a local tool shop, always is for me.

[retired]

For breaking them free, if you haven't got access to an impact gun, this is what you want

http://www.minimania...lywheel-Spanner

Before I could afford an impact gun, this is what I used for years - does ball joints and flywheel - and is what we call a "flogging" spanner, designed to be thumped really hard with the biggest lump hammer you have. I find it better than a ring spanner because it's 6 sided and square on the corners so doesn't slip off.

[dklawson]

and is what we call a "flogging" spanner, designed to be thumped really hard with the biggest lump hammer you have.

And over here (where the OP is from) it is called a striking wrench. They are definitely a good tool to have.

[UBSTANKN]

Mike, find the nearest agricultural supply store and see what they have for box ends. However, if you have an impact wrench and compressor, it will work wonders on taking that nut off. Still... you will find it infinitely easier to handle the rest of the ball joint repair/replacement with the hub in a vice.

That "Shock and Unlock" mentioned above is probably freeze spray. I think Permatex/Loctite make a similar product.

P.B. Blaster has a better reputation than it deserves. Liquid Wrench really does work better (car club tests have shown this). Another possibility that is better still is the homemade penetrant made from a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Me... I use Liquid Wrench or Kroil

EDIT: Mike, I Googled it. The freeze spray I was thinking up is made by CRC and sold under the name "Freeze Off". It is sold at o'Reilly and AutoZone stores... probably others also.

It appears that my local AutoZone carries the Freeze Off stuff. I've never heard of a product like this. I find it ironic that it uses a "freezing effect to crack rusted surfaces". The typical solution is to apply heat to free rusted surfaces.

For breaking them free, if you haven't got access to an impact gun, this is what you want

http://www.minimania...lywheel-Spanner

Before I could afford an impact gun, this is what I used for years - does ball joints and flywheel - and is what we call a "flogging" spanner, designed to be thumped really hard with the biggest lump hammer you have. I find it better than a ring spanner because it's 6 sided and square on the corners so doesn't slip off.

This is what it looks like Haynes uses but I haven't seen one in any of the tool stores around here. That being said, there aren't really too many tool stores around here.

I looked around for a 1-1/2" wrench, but they are not cheap. I think I'm better off saving some money at this point and either bringing the swivel hub to a local mechanic and seeing if they can loosen the ball joint or try and do it myself.

-Mike

[Tomm]

I used to have a huge deal of problems with these ball joints and used to avoid them at all costs.

Get a load of decent penetrating oil over the nut. Leave it for a hour or so and let it really sink in. Also if you can te a blow torch on there that may help.

If the nut keeps spinning try and get some mole grips on the bottom of the joit shaft. Don't put it on the thread otherwise you won't be able to get the nut off at all! This probably isn't the best way to do it but it has always worked for me!

Once the nut is off give the section that the ball joint goes through a good smack with a hammer and this will separate the joint.

If the nut is seized and just won't come out use the same oiling and heating method. Get a nice solid impact gun type socket on there with a sturdy breaker bar and then stick a scaffold pole on the end of that.

If you don't have all of the above then a strong ring end spanner on there and a ******* from a large hammer should get it off!

If all of that fails drill the nut out!

Good luck!

[Yoda]

read the threadTomm, its the swivel he is trying to shift, not the ball joint.

I cant say any more than has been said already here, i have used most methods described except actually cutting through the cone nut. Not advisable and not usually needed. it will come off eventually. Only extra i can add, is try doing it it up more first, then undo. if you get any movement, it will be enough to crack any rust and make removal easier. If you really don't want to remove the hub, then as previously suggested, fit a ring spanner ( wrench ) and refit the taper into the arm. turn steering to full lock in the direction you will be turning the wrench and smack wrench with a hammer size large or extra large. it will come undone.

If not, do you have any bluffs or cliffs near you? push the car over the edge and when it gets to the bottom, most rust will be loosened. wont be much car left but you should be able to get the nut undone.

[UBSTANKN]

read the threadTomm, its the swivel he is trying to shift, not the ball joint.

I cant say any more than has been said already here, i have used most methods described except actually cutting through the cone nut. Not advisable and not usually needed. it will come off eventually. Only extra i can add, is try doing it it up more first, then undo. if you get any movement, it will be enough to crack any rust and make removal easier. If you really don't want to remove the hub, then as previously suggested, fit a ring spanner ( wrench ) and refit the taper into the arm. turn steering to full lock in the direction you will be turning the wrench and smack wrench with a hammer size large or extra large. it will come undone.

If not, do you have any bluffs or cliffs near you? push the car over the edge and when it gets to the bottom, most rust will be loosened. wont be much car left but you should be able to get the nut undone.

I did try turning it in both directions in the hope that tightening it might help break the rust, but no luck.

Hmm the cliff idea might be worth a shot, but probably only after I've given up complete hope. Believe me, I've considered shoving it off a cliff a couple times

-Mike

[Tomm]

read the threadTomm, its the swivel he is trying to shift, not the ball joint.

Ah right I see, I must have got confused with the term "Ball Joint" in the thread title...

[tiger99]

It is correctly known as a ball joint.

I think it is angle grinder time. Grind into one flat of the nut (you will need the hub off the car and in a vice) and upwards partly on to the hemisphere, until you thin the metal, but don't go into the threads. When the thinned metal glows red as you are grinding, you know you are nearly through. At that stage, put the spanner on and give it a good whack. The thinned metal will have stretched and it will be loose.

Edited by tiger99, 08 August 2012 - 12:35 PM.

[sprag]

I'd go for a ring spanner option with a bar or large hammer on the end too.
Looks like your trailer ball wrenches in the US have the same 1 1/2 af size, have a look at this ebay.com item no 270180591711 at $12.88