14 replies to this topic

[mike.]

After getting my mini on the road and driving it around once again, I never remember the cabin and floor getting so hot. Its been windows open driving no matter what weather and i'm still hot!

This is mainly due to the fact that I removed the heater tap to fit a billet DSN classics version, so hot water is always flowing through my heater, which heats up the cabin quite a lot despite not having the fan on. But i'm gona order an little inline tap under the dash to sort that out

But also there is a quite a lot of heat coming up through the floor of the car from the exhaust. tunnel/bulkhead and surrounding areas. I think because my manifold is stainless steel, which is quite thin walled, it gives off more heat.

My carpets aren't fitted yet as i've just fixed the window leaks, so now is the time to put some heat reflecting stuff down under the carpet.

I'm hoping theres something non adhesive which can be moved in/out easily with the carpet, that I can just lay down over the floor to stop this heat warming the cabin up.

Anybody done anything similar? I've been looking around at various £40 per square metre products but thats a bit too serious for such a minor problem. I've just come across this stuff though and was thinking £12 for a couple of packs of this to put down as a double layer might do the trick.

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item35b9cdde1d

But does it work, anybody used this for any heat reflecting purposes?

[donjarr]

Hi m8

That stuff only works when reflecting heat back into the room say, if placed next to a hot surface it just gets hot too. You would need to line the tunnel externally with it for it to work properly.

:)

Edited by donjarr, 25 July 2012 - 09:48 PM.

[mike.]

hmm I was hoping it'd reflect the heat coming through the floor to stop it warming up the cabin so much.

The floor isn't getting as hot as a radiator would, but it is warm to the touch all over.

[998dave]

Get some reflective material, but put it under the floow - essentially line the tunnel with it, and rivet it in.

Dave

[mike.]

I had thought of that, but don't really want to start drilling holes in the floor/up the bulkhead.

If no heatshield stuff will be effective fitted to the inside of the car then i'll probably just leave it, as i'm sure the majority of the heat is coming from the heater

[Mabird]

we had this problem with the Cobra, it was unbearable after about 30 miles. We got a product called Dynamat and lined the floor with this under the carpeting, reduced the problem a lot. Not sure if this product is available at home, I'm sure it will be but possibly under another trade name

[Brams96]

mike1 - This is from post 109 (pg8) of my project 'Fern' page. I found it greatly reduced the temp of the floor & carpet around the gear lever area. Feel free to copy the idea & if you want some measurements let me know. As for the heater hose & manifold why not get some Exhaust Heat Wrap & cover it as it reduces engine bay temps & reduces reflected heat from them.


On the L2B '10 I felt quite a bit of heat coming through the gearstick gaiter which must have been coming through from the exhaust, so I thought I would address this problem with a heatsheild. Using a cardboard template first then some 1mm sheet aluminium I fashioned this:



It fits directly on to the bottom of the gearstick housing using the 6 existing screws and requires no modification of anything. The idea is as well as blocking the heat reaiating from the exhaust next to it, it will also direct heat from the down pipes when moving forward away.

Here it is fitted:





If anyone wants the dimensions for this I can post them up so you can make your own.

Edited by Brams96, 26 July 2012 - 05:55 PM.

[mike.]

Pretty neat idea that

Ideally though i'm looking for something I can put in the car so it can be taken out in winter easily etc

Mabrid, we have dynamat and other similar products here, I hadn't really though of that as its mainly for sound reduction

[Brams96]

You only need to undo 6 screws and the heatshield comes off, simple to return back to normal or swap for winter/summer.

[mike.]

I know but its the floor/lower bulkhead mainly I can feel the warmth coming from.

Just been looking at dynamat, I knew it was pretty pricey but I can buy one bit which sound ideal size to go over the tunnel and up the bulkhead - 18"-32" for £17:

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3a691b66bc

But when you read it, 2mm thick and foil backed - Basically sounds the same as that radiator stuff but 5 times the price, and its gota be the foil thats doing the bulk of the heat reflection

[stretch tech]

mike1 - This is from post 109 (pg8) of my project 'Fern' page. I found it greatly reduced the temp of the floor & carpet around the gear lever area. Feel free to copy the idea & if you want some measurements let me know. As for the heater hose & manifold why not get some Exhaust Heat Wrap & cover it as it reduces engine bay temps & reduces reflected heat from them.


On the L2B '10 I felt quite a bit of heat coming through the gearstick gaiter which must have been coming through from the exhaust, so I thought I would address this problem with a heatsheild. Using a cardboard template first then some 1mm sheet aluminium I fashioned this:



It fits directly on to the bottom of the gearstick housing using the 6 existing screws and requires no modification of anything. The idea is as well as blocking the heat reaiating from the exhaust next to it, it will also direct heat from the down pipes when moving forward away.

Here it is fitted:





If anyone wants the dimensions for this I can post them up so you can make your own.

sorry to hijack but if you noticed heat coming through the gear stick gator i'm starting to worry about how hot mines going to be...my exhaust runs pretty much up side by side to the gear changer and i had to pin the reverse light cable back as it was nearly touching



sorry for the blurry pic and poor angle but you should be able to see how close the exhaust runs to the gear change...

[mike.]

Either way you wana rotate those exhaust clamps before you rip your exhaust off on a speedbump/car park ramp etc

[stretch tech]

Either way you wana rotate those exhaust clamps before you rip your exhaust off on a speedbump/car park ramp etc

yeah, forgot to say that since then we have cut the excess bolt down

[Mabird]

I know but its the floor/lower bulkhead mainly I can feel the warmth coming from.

Just been looking at dynamat, I knew it was pretty pricey but I can buy one bit which sound ideal size to go over the tunnel and up the bulkhead - 18"-32" for £17:

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3a691b66bc

But when you read it, 2mm thick and foil backed - Basically sounds the same as that radiator stuff but 5 times the price, and its gota be the foil thats doing the bulk of the heat reflection

That is cheaper than you can get it here. It does do the job

[998dave]

Very tidy job - I'm impressed! Think I may copy your idea when I build the Hornet up, as I've got some insulating sandwich heatshield material stockpiled somewhere...