920 replies to this topic

[Minidarren83]

Graham i did think you may have a had a few jars lol,  hugh thanks for the comment at the moment i cant wait for the weldeing to be done
 
Update time!!
once again i got an early day from work so got in the garage for a couple of hours first off was to drill a few holes in the subframe stiffeners and paint the backs with zinc primer and bolt them back in
 

 
then weld it in and clean it off
 

 

 

 
next up its almost time to fit the valance and i only bought one corner close out so set about making one, first of a cardboard template
 

 

 
then transfer to steel
 

 
then cut out and all cleaned of old paint
 

 
next all was left to do is bent it up and trim to fit and it fits better than the one i bought!
 

 
and this is how i left it today i just need to weld on a lip for the new panel to weld to the valance then i can fit the closouts as they are all marked up
 

 
hopefully get more done this week or at the weekend should see the floor painted soon.  Cheers darren

Edited by Minidarren83, 05 June 2013 - 06:06 PM.

[Skortchio]

A few holes, eh

 

Nice work fella. Although that last photo does screw with the eyes a bit!

[Minidarren83]

A few holes, eh
 
Nice work fella. Although that last photo does screw with the eyes a bit!

I see what you mean I have the car on the side and had to half shut the garage door and take a crazy angle pic to make the flash go off lol

[alex-95]

Look's good darren, The valance closures should have another peice on for another stregthener fo the subframe like the one's I made.

[grahama]

Nice Bob, very nice,  hic !!

 

One thing as I'm sure u will do,  don't weld them in without the sub in place or space for subby may get tight if in wrong place, (experience talking here lol).

 

You do seem to be missing the lip at the bottom of the wheel arch which extends round the stiffener,  you can see it in Alex's pic.

 

 

Graham

[Minidarren83]

Look's good darren, The valance closures should have another peice on for another stregthener fo the subframe like the one's I made.

Hi there Alex thanks for the input according to the somerfords exploded diagrams there is three layers in this area consisting of boot floor rear valance closure/subframe reinforcement and inside the boot a wheel arch to boot floor subframe bracket, I have just made the valance closures and subby reinforcement in two parts for ease of replacement in the future, hope this makes sense

[Minidarren83]

Nice Bob, very nice,  hic !!
 
One thing as I'm sure u will do,  don't weld them in without the sub in place or space for subby may get tight if in wrong place, (experience talking here lol).
 
You do seem to be missing the lip at the bottom of the wheel arch which extends round the stiffener,  you can see it in Alex's pic.
 
 
Graham

Hi there graham good to have you sober again lol

I saw on your thread the trouble you had with not enough space for the trunnion so with that in mind I've bolted the trunnions on when marking out where to weld them as for the bit in the arch mine where non existent and just thought it was part if the arch!! Oh well looks like ill be adding that on then lol

[grahama]

Think this is the best shot I have that shows the arch lip.   As you can see it should extend down past the boot floor,  don't know why or if it is really needed but that's how it was originally. 

 

 

 

I guess it no lip works for you then don't make extra work for yourself.

 

Graham

[Minidarren83]

thanks for the picture graham i think i am going add the lip on when i put the arches in as it needs trimming back in that area around the arches again because i have no boundary at the moment to put the lip on lol

 

Another couple of hours in the garage today and the first job was to weld on the lip for the valance closure and it came out prettyt well

 

 

and then final fitting marking and welded the pair on

 

 

i put a few little seams on the insiede and also plugged and short seams on the outside lip to the boot floor

 

 

 

Then the inside of the valance was stripped back to bare metal marked drilled and zinc primed

 

 

and then started the plugathon got both ends plugged up and half way down the boot lip and was called in for dinner but this is how it now stands

 

 

 

 

hope to get this finished off in the week and start prep for painting the underside, as always comments welcome darren

[Minidarren83]

so another mid week update!!

 

first off i have been buying a few things got some knuckle joints grease nipples and a little grease gun and a new set of rear wheel bearings for my earlier failings and the bargain of the century put a bid on ebay for a pair of front wheel bearing got them for £22 posted and when they turned up they were genuine timken ones so a saving of £80

 

 

then rebuilt the rear hub

 

 

then stripped down my front hubs and fiesta brakes as when i bought them i was told they had new bearings in but they were full of sand

 

 

and then fitted the new knuckles and nipples into the top arms and radius arm to make them ready to fit

 

 

with the little break from bodywork over i needed to do the last couple of welding jobs on the underside which was the handbrake bracket and a drain hole i missed out then masked up the car

 

 

and then a big step a coat of grivitex stonechip

 

 

gave a good finish out of the gun but i put it on thick in some places

 

 

 

 

went back out there a couple of hours later and am very disapointed it has started cracking in some areas maybe where it went on too thick so i will need to rub back those bits and shoot some more but only a little set back and next is the black top coat

 

cheers darren

[Skortchio]

Does it feel good to see some paint(ish) going on? You know, before it cracked

 

I found it so nice to do some mechanical stuff after all the faffing with cosmetics.

[Miniowner123]

you'll probably find the gravitex has reacted with seam sealer or some aerosol you may have used before hand

 

i had the same issue and it was down to tetrosyl seam sealer, and in some places aerosol red oxide primer, i had to remove it and start again, can highly recommend tiger seal, no reactions what so ever and it pretty much sticks to anything

Edited by Kylie Ann, 13 June 2013 - 08:29 PM.

[Minidarren83]

you'll probably find the gravitex has reacted with seam sealer or some aerosol you may have used before hand
 
i had the same issue and it was down to tetrosyl seam sealer, and in some places aerosol red oxide primer, i had to remove it and start again, can highly recommend tiger seal, no reactions what so ever and it pretty much sticks to anything

I have no reactions over the seam sealer or any suspect areas and the only spray primer I have use was upol stuff as I knew I was going over with the upol gravitex I would say most of the floor has come out great and I've read it can happen if you put it on too think ill try rubbing back the affected areas then dust gravitex then full coat see how that gets on

[Minidarren83]

Does it feel good to see some paint(ish) going on? You know, before it cracked
 
I found it so nice to do some mechanical stuff after all the faffing with cosmetics.

For just a couple of hours I thought yeah this is going great then it all went to eat **** lol oh well rub down I shall begin

[Skortchio]

I know how that feels dude! But it's all moving forwards much more than back!