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Canadian Mini 30 First Ever Rebuild!


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#121 30 mm

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 04:50 PM

 

KB thanks.  A lot there I didn't think about.  Posts of the VTEC coming out to follow.

 

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#122 30 mm

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Posted 26 May 2013 - 08:21 PM

Well the VTEC is out.  I had no idea how hard this was and I am forecasting a nightmare to put it into the mini.  I understand physically it wont be that hard but to hook all the cables back up and actually make it start will most likely be the end of me.

 

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#123 Sleepy Stu

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Posted 26 May 2013 - 08:25 PM

Nah will be fine. Most of the that crap attached to it is gonna come off and will never be seen again!



#124 30 mm

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Posted 21 June 2013 - 11:34 AM

Help,

 

Im 95% done with taking the wires out of the integra.  Where I have trouble is the wiring loom once it goes through the firewall on the drivers side.  Is there a connection there.  I cant seem to find it.  Im working upside down in that space and just riping everything out.

 

Any help would be great.

 

Thanks

 

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#125 KieranB

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Posted 21 June 2013 - 12:41 PM

There should be two plugs on the drivers side connecting to the engine harness, one will be quite large with something like 16 pins, the other one has just two pins but they are thick wires for the starter solenoid (i think)

 

This is thinking in terms of my loom which is from a del sol but should be very similar

 

Kieran



#126 30 mm

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Posted 22 August 2013 - 02:23 PM

Im still working guys!

 

Donor car is gone and Saturday is a full day of welding ahead of us.

 

Question.  The boot or trunk bottom panel is warping or waves are created where I want to weld it to where the bumper attaches.  Any idea how I can avoid these waves in the metal.

 

Thanks

 

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#127 zinzan

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Posted 23 August 2013 - 01:12 AM

Hey great job.  I feel your pain...my "fix it up to get it on the road" plan with my '93 spi imported from the UK has now turned into a bare metal total rebuild.  Many, many lovely discoveries by the day!

 

Is the warping your mentioning from grinding?



#128 30 mm

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Posted 10 September 2013 - 12:56 AM

The warping may just be a bad way I cut the metal.  Once I get to weld the rear I have a plan of attack and Ill post those pics.

 

 

Hey guys,

Im still welding away at the mini.

Im going to start prepping the rear subframe to mount back onto the car. I have the subframe itself and the rear radius swinging arms.

For the drum breaks can I just buy this at any auto parts store as well as the shocks. Ill have coil overs at the front but not rear.

Need info here.
THanks

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#129 Ethel

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Posted 10 September 2013 - 01:34 AM

Not sure how you mean warping. Quite a few panels, such as the rear scuttle, are stressed. i.e.they are sprung into place & welded, undoing the welds lets them unspring.



#130 roughneckin

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 02:12 PM

Just looked through the thread man, good on you!!  Looks great.  Another reason for warping is too much heat added, from either welding or grinding.  Try to keep the heat down or let things cool as you go, I learnt that from my autobody bro a few weeks ago. 

 

I'm in Calgary and a quick question, where are you getting most of your panels and how long is it taking?  I got a quote yesterday of around 12 weeks possibly!! 



#131 30 mm

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Posted 28 September 2013 - 07:50 PM

Hey guys,

Ill soon be buying the minitec MBT2 series frame.  But they sell a radiator for a few hundred dollars.  I don't think they make the radiator so does anyone know where they are getting it from.

Looking at ebay there are radiator for less then 100$.  Does anyone know the dimensions of the radiator I should buy.

Thanks

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#132 Sleepy Stu

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 10:28 AM

I would wait for buying the radiator as you have no idea at the moment how much space you will have. Once you have fitted it all in the car you can then make a radiator out of a cereal packet and trial fit and amend until you know what size is needed !



#133 30 mm

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 02:42 PM

Sleepy stew!  Great idea and thanks for the heads up.

 

I figure Ill get to this by the march break we have here in North America. 

 

More welding this week and hopefully we finish it all!  Then Ill attack the rear subframe.

 

A question about the rear subframe.  The shocks, I don't want coil overs back there.  is there anything special I need to be looking at if I want 13x7s back there or will any rear adjustable shock do.  Do I even want adjustable.

 

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#134 Sleepy Stu

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 07:43 PM

Sleepy stew!  Great idea and thanks for the heads up.

 

I figure Ill get to this by the march break we have here in North America. 

 

More welding this week and hopefully we finish it all!  Then Ill attack the rear subframe.

 

A question about the rear subframe.  The shocks, I don't want coil overs back there.  is there anything special I need to be looking at if I want 13x7s back there or will any rear adjustable shock do.  Do I even want adjustable.

 

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I've got adjustable dampers all round so if you have them at the front you might want some for the back as well so you can set them independently by how you want your ride . More useful though is new donuts if yours have seen better days, a hi-lo kit and I would recommend adjustable tracking and camber brackets. KAD do some very nice ones but as your in the US that makes it a little more difficult?


Edited by Sleepy Stu, 30 September 2013 - 09:25 PM.


#135 30 mm

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 07:57 PM

Ill be using the coil overs with my MTB2 kit from Minitec.  So I assume adjustable dampers is what I want at the rear.

 

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