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Halogen Headlights?


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#1 Macast

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Posted 30 June 2012 - 10:50 PM

I currently have the standard factory headlights for my Mini City E and was thinking of upgrading to halogen headlights.

Is this easy to do? If you have bought any or done an upgrade, where did you buy from and how much did they cost?

Would I be able to fit them myself or is it too complicated and requires an auto electrician?

Feel free to post pictures and any information.

Thanks.

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#2 markosparko1994

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Posted 30 June 2012 - 10:56 PM

you won't need an electrician, many will just plug them in and thats that but I believe it can be advisable to fit a relay for some types of bulb (very simple)

you will need to remove the bulbs by unscrewing the screw at base of outer headlamp ring, then undoing 2 o 3 more screws on the inner ring, its fairly self explanitory. Then just pull off the terminals at the rear of the lamps and push them back onto the new lamps, fit the inner rings and reverse sequence for refitting.

edit: use the relay to protect the switch and wires if new halogen bulb draws more current than previous, if fitting relay remember to use correct grade of wire. This sounds very tricky but is very easy

Edited by markosparko1994, 30 June 2012 - 10:58 PM.


#3 Skortchio

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 08:36 AM

Did this recently, fitted some Cibie H180's in place of the sealed beam.
As Marko says, bigger lights = bigger current so you need bigger wiring.

Using the original headlight wiring to activate the relays (1 for dipped, 1 for main) then new wires from solonoid to relay then to headlights, there's mixed feelings on whether to fuse or not, I did as changing a fuse is easier than burnt out wiring.

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If you're thinking of upgrading, I have read that simply running a dedicated feed to the stock headlights can give good improvement.
Depends how far you want to go with it, my new lights are wicked bright! :D

#4 lrostoke

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 08:43 AM

somebody as posted on here a few times its illegal to fuse the lights, at least fused in such a way that both lights go off.

I can see the logic behind it, country lane at night tight bends, fuse blows ....no light .....look out for that tree

I know on our truck the lights are fused but seperate left and right, so you never loose both lights

#5 bmcecosse

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 08:44 AM

The standard 55Watt halogen lamps take LESS current than sealed beams - so no relay etc required. It's a very simple straight swap. Do please get the beams set when finished.......

#6 cambiker71

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 10:04 AM

The standard 55Watt halogen lamps take LESS current than sealed beams - so no relay etc required. It's a very simple straight swap. Do please get the beams set when finished.......


The 55/60w halogens do use more current than the sealed beam 40/45w ones nearly 25% more and it causes problems with the switch and switchgear over time, in some cases heat can build up in the connectors causing them to melt. I've seen this many times so beware.

#7 Skortchio

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 12:24 PM

Surely anything which causes the fuse to blow would cause other problems, blown headlight / melted wires should it not be installed? That being the point of a fuse, a reliable break point in the circuit.

Would still have the other beam dipped / main, should one go, also if the current was high enough to blow a fuse, would that not happen on turning the light on initially?



#8 mini-luke

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 12:43 PM

Surely anything which causes the fuse to blow would cause other problems, blown headlight / melted wires should it not be installed? That being the point of a fuse, a reliable break point in the circuit.

Would still have the other beam dipped / main, should one go, also if the current was high enough to blow a fuse, would that not happen on turning the light on initially?


The issue is that fuses can suddenly blow due to vibration, not always when there's a short. By the looks of things you've used separate fuses, which is just fine and how it is on a modern car.

#9 lrostoke

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 03:40 PM

The've fitted seperate fuses for dipped and main beam, not each side.
I think the issue is with a sudden loss of light would your reactions immediately make you switch beams ??

#10 minidaves

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 03:44 PM

most problems with headlamp wiring is the fusebox where they take the power to the headlamp switch, and the little connections behind the grill. the wires in place for the headlamps is fine for halogen headlamps a littleover engineering from rover in the firstplace. biggest problem as said corroded connections creating high resistance.

#11 bmcecosse

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 04:03 PM

Since when were sealed beams 40/45 watt?? They have been 60/60 watt for as long as I remember - and indeed 75 watt versions could be obtained. Therefore 55 watt halogens DO use less current..........

#12 Macast

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 04:36 PM

I wanted to try this myself, but not sure I know enough about auto electrics to do so. I'm 18, and had my Mini for one year. If it's not a straight swap, I may have to get someone else to do it... I don't want to get to a point where I get stuck or fit them and they don't work, in which case I'll be without headlights :wacko:

If anyone has any detailed instructions, that would be helpful, a step by step guide so to speak. I'm thinking of buying from minispares or minisport...

Minispares: http://www.minispare...|Back to search

Minisport: http://www.minisport.../info_QUAD.html

#13 Macast

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 05:23 PM

Also, once they are fitted, how do I know they are to the correct height for legal use? Must I take it to an MOT centre to get it checked?

#14 dave-88_123

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 08:09 PM

ive used wipac ones from minispares good quality which is important there is somtimes a bit of wiring for the sidelight normaly joining in a new bulb holder other than that pluged straight in using standart h4 bulbs and a garage can set them for you for not much cash

Edited by dave-88_123, 01 July 2012 - 08:10 PM.


#15 Cooperman

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 08:14 PM

The wiring is very straightforward as there are the same number of connections and the wiring diagram is the same for each.
I had some very good lights a few years ago made by 'Autopal'. I don't know if they are still available, but for road use they were excellent. I even used them for rallying with 100 w bulbs. I now use either Cibie or Hella, which are simply the best, but Autopal runs a close second. Check them on Ebay.




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