85 replies to this topic

[Tomf]

Hi im just in the process of painting some pannles and i saw this thread a while ago, so i searhced it and it was just what i was after.

However i dont have a buffer thingy, so i was woundering if i could wet and dry the painted pannles with something like 1500-2000, then get some G3 and apply this by hand, then polish the pannle after the G3 hasbeen applyed by hand.

Would this work or not?

Or would it work if i just wet and dry then polish it up after.

[dave20046]

It was baked in the oven but the longer you leave it the better it is.

What do you mean by that Shaz? Also what type of soap do you use for the soapy water?
Thanks

[Nathann]

do you think it is possible to use a orbital sander with 1500 wet and dry on it?

[Bungle]

i wouldn't use a electric sander with wet sand paper

[MrMini]

Hi, im in the process of painting a car in CELLUOSE, does it still work with celluose paint? I was told not to use a rubbing compound unless i was going to laquer the car too. I have been warned that a rubbing compound will remove the paint. Is this true? Also, what would you suggest is the minimum time you can let paint cure? It has been sprayed with a compressor.

Thanks

[tom's mini mayfair]

Hi i'm new to the forum and i cant believe how many useful threads there are how did i ever survive without this forum before. I've got rust comeing through in a few places and before they become to big a want to sort it out ie, rubbing down, filling and painting (due to a budget it will have to be with a can) and i was wondering if the technique you've talked about could be used to blend the new paint to the old paint.

The car could do with a polish anyway so i mite do it to the whole car once the bodywork is sorted.

Do you reckon i'd be able to get a decent join in the paints?

[Bungle]

yes the above will help blend in new paint work

remember to let the paint go hard (a week or 2) before you try polishing

[miniman andy]

sounds like i have to do this too after my respray.

put all these names of paint. which would you recommend. as i have not got a clue. and can someone tel me what paint i would need.

im after biomophic paint (an MG colour) i have hear it is well over £80 a litre. i got the stuff in a spraycan for doing my bulkhead so a code of that is not to hard to get.

what is this waterbased stuff like as the paint shop near me said that is the way it is all going.

and what is the differance between 2pac, celly paint and acrillic?

really confused! really donno!

[gerbertoyd]

It is hard to tell from those pictures as in most of them I cant see any reflections.

The one of the rear quarter looks as if the paint is dry, I am guessing this was done using a spray can ?

It looks as if the paint is dry because you have not applied enough with each pass.

You could try G3 straight off but it will take time

To speed up the process you can use wet and dry paper P1200 or P1500
and soapy water, keep wetting the panel as you rub it, you will not need too much pressure, when it feel smooth to the touch then G3 it, again keep the panel wet at all times when using the buffer.

If you do not have a buffer then, use P1500 and get it as smooth as possible then G3 by hand..

hope this helps.

cheers

[gerbertoyd]

[quote name='cooper_shaz' date='Jun 8 2006, 12:18 PM' post='303111']
I am in need of assistance I have a purple mini in need of some loving,

If you could imagine a car with sunburn that is what my car is suffering from. It has a lot of seperate patches where the laquer is coming off, the paint beneath it is fine stained in areas but all the same it is still there,

I have the electric buffer and sand paper, I do enjoy picing at it but this isn't the solution. could you please advise me on how to restore a single layer with a shine

Paul

[MD-IN-UK]

This, in my line of work is called "color sanding/ buffing". It's what is typically done for a better then just out of the spray gun finish, or what some call "show car" look. Don't get me wrong, this process isn't normally required if the painter has any serious skill level (for shine alone), it is only required to remove imperfections, such as dirt nibs, sags, and even nasty runs.

If your spraying lacquer (cellulose as you call it), then polishing is a must, as this product never dries as shiny as any enamel, or urethane based clearcoat. Wateborne paints are not something to be polished. They must still be clear coated to be considered done. Then you can sand/polish the clear coat. Keep in mind that anytime you sand and polish, you are removing mil thickness that eventually takes away from the life expectantcy of the product. Hence, if your doing this to an older cured finish, it will require a great deal of effort to achieve good looks, as the paint gets thinner, it becomes more impossible as the next step would be rubbing right thru the finish.

Sanding/buffing/polishing should be reserved for newer paint jobs that have had an extra coat of clear applied. If it's done correctly, once will be enough. Leaving the mil thickness where it should be. After that, apply a couple times a year (minimum) a nice wax or sealant. Trying to restore a very old finish in this manner can be good practice for some, but usually turns into a greater disappointment for others, as they end up finding themselves in need of a respray (no paint left on the car to work with).

I'm stateside, so I'm not familiar with the paint systems used in the UK. If anyone would be willing to start a thread to educate people like me, it would be much apprciated.

Looking forward to sharing my body and paint skills with anyone interested, John a.k.a. MD-IN-UK

[Skalabala]

all true MD! remember to never flat down a panel in a sirkel like motion. and be very carefull when aproaching cornours when using the polish machine.

[cristiano]

Hello friends.Nice to meet you all.I'm cristiano from spain.I tend to use a Hydra blade, but here a wiper blade was used to clean away the water so you can look closely at the paint for shiny bits. If you look closely at the pic below you can see a couple little bits, this is fine but the smoother your paint the better your shine.
________________________________
mighty milk
Dermalogica

[chunkytfg]

Although a usefull thread i cant beleive some of the suggestions made.

Firstly I feel the need to point out a couple of issues that have yet to be mentioned in 3 years!

Single and two stage paint. Right basically you have two painting processess. Single stage is basically a layer of paint and thats it. And two stage is where a clear laquer is applied over the top.

Now i'm relatively new to mini's from a detailers point of view but i'd imagine later mini's would be two stage and early ones are single. And easy test is to use a bit of G£(seen as you all seem to have bought it!) on a cloth and give a hidden area a rub. if the cloth stays clean then assume two stage but it you get paint transfer onto the cloth assume single stage.

In terms of the suggestions to just crack on with W+D 1500 on panels of an unknown quantity is mental to say the least and to then suggest removing the after effects by hand is equally so.

If you have a car with two stage paint i would NEVER even consider W+D as and option as the risk of strike through(sand thorugh the clear laquer to the paint. your only option then is a respray) is an almost certainty. even on a single stage i would be reluctant as you will remove an incredible amount of paint.

I understand that if you have painted the car yourself you will probably have orange peel(paint has a surface like an orange skin) so the temptation to try and flatten the paint is strong. If you do decide to flatten the paint then 1500 w+D is way to course, you'd be better with something like 3000 or 4000 using a proper sanding block to allow even pressure on the surface.

Once you have 'flattened' the paint and are left with a very sorry for itself looking car you need to start the process of polishing. First thing first is to ditch the G3 in the nearest recycling centre as it is a dry horrible compound best left for dodgy bodyshops who like leaving buffer trails, holograms and swirls over customers cars. bit like this



although technically the paintwork will look shiney the minute the sun hits it it will look terrible

Buy yourself a proper Da polisher such as a Kestrel DAS-6 or a meguirs G220 and a couple of bottles of decent polish from a reputable shop such as www.polishedbliss.co.uk one with a pretty aggresive cut and one with a fine cut. Then buy yourself a cheap bottnet from a scrappy and practice practice practice until you can achieve results that contain nothing but mirror perfect paint with not a single mark in it.

bit like this on the right



I understand that looking at the pics in the original post you are all impressed by the before and afters but to be honest all i see is a dirty car and then a clean car. Thats nothing that cant be fixed with a decent wash and clay followed by a quick once around with autoglym super resin polish to fill some of the minor swirls.

I hope this has been some help and i hope it isnt taken as a knock towards the original post

[cooper_shaz]

Although a usefull thread i cant beleive some of the suggestions made.

Firstly I feel the need to point out a couple of issues that have yet to be mentioned in 3 years!

I hope this has been some help and i hope it isnt taken as a knock towards the original post

Hey Mate,

Good advice there folks, no knocks taken. The above advice is just that "Advice" Most of the information on here is offered with a view that these paint jobs are being done on a shoe string budget, at home with a compressor or spray can and an in-experienced person behind the controls, as an example the polishing kit

G220 Intermediate Paint Machine Polishing Kit

£196.79


Thats more that most of the guys here have to spend on their paint jobs. But if you have the budget, then follow the above guide.

There are may many levels of finish, but general rule, the better the finish, the more it costs.