Edited by leigh21, 09 June 2012 - 02:14 PM.

Solenoid Wiring Help
Started by
leigh21
, Jun 08 2012 04:36 PM
22 replies to this topic
#16
Posted 09 June 2012 - 02:14 PM
Ok been out there today, Solved one problem being a auto previously i had connected the 2 inhibitor switch wires together near the gear stick so it would start, but behind the dash one of the bullet connectors had come out so re-connected it and all seemed well was turning over as it should for about 10 seconds then the starter motor seem to jam? then started smoking? Then after that the solenoid was just clicking. So i think a new starter is in order but why would it jam like that? Thanks.
#17
Posted 10 June 2012 - 08:19 AM
bump
#18
Posted 10 June 2012 - 08:29 AM
Out of curiosity, is the new engine verto or non verto? if it is verto then it should be a pre engaged starter. therefore in this scenario an inertia starter may jam on the flywheel of a verto and cause the issue you have. If this is the case, than just take the starter off the auto engine and everything should be as normal again
#19
Posted 10 June 2012 - 01:57 PM
It has the small clutch arm on so i think that means its verto? So judging by that it should be pre engaged after all? can someone clarify this? Cause its really stressing me out now lol all i want is to hear her running again

Edited by leigh21, 10 June 2012 - 02:22 PM.
#20
Posted 10 June 2012 - 02:22 PM
No, the short release arm is for the verto setup and typically uses the pre-engaged starter. The long release arm is the pre-verto and is used with the inertia starter.
#21
Posted 10 June 2012 - 02:27 PM
The engine came with a inertia starter already on it so i didnt question it at all, Im going to try the pre engaged starter and see what happens. Thanks
#22
Posted 10 June 2012 - 02:51 PM
Others can tell you more specifics about what to check. I believe what is fundamentally different is not the type of clutch but the type of ring gear on the flywheel. I am only familiar with the inertia starter setup so I cannot tell you what to look for on the ring gear that identifies which starter it needs.
EDIT: Regardless, of the proper starter type, it doesn't sound like you have resolved all the electrical issues. The problem with mismatched starter/flywheel types is not that the starters will not work, it is that mechanically they are mismatched and that can result in binding and/or rapid wear of the components. You should resolve the issues preventing the starter from operating before investing in a new or different starter motor.
EDIT: Regardless, of the proper starter type, it doesn't sound like you have resolved all the electrical issues. The problem with mismatched starter/flywheel types is not that the starters will not work, it is that mechanically they are mismatched and that can result in binding and/or rapid wear of the components. You should resolve the issues preventing the starter from operating before investing in a new or different starter motor.
Edited by dklawson, 10 June 2012 - 02:53 PM.
#23
Posted 10 June 2012 - 03:19 PM
The wiring is now all sorted it was the inhibitor wires had come out the bullet connector behind the heater in the car. So just the sticking starter motor now

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