28 replies to this topic

[Lee_bash]

So, I don't know how bad my rust is properly, but assuming the worse since I've got oversills fitted, aproximately how much am I looking at to have the complete floorpan swapped out, or at least both bits either side of the tunnel? I'd love to do it myself, but I realise its quite a job for a beginner so would like a rough idea of the cost to have it done elsewhere.

[tiger99]

I thinkthat you really need to have a good look at the floor before fearing the worst. Oversills are harmful, but the damage they cause is unlikely to extend beyond the outer, sloping edge of the floor, so if that is the only problem, you will need two full-length outer floor edges only. Only if there is substantial corrosion in the flat part is a floor needed. Localised corrosion is best replaced by cutting out a suitable patch from a repair panel and seam welding it in.

A full floor does a neater job, involving less welding (no full-length seams), but really needs to be done on a jig, as almost all rigidity is lost while the floor is out. Edge panels can be done, carefully, one at a time without a jig.

You can get floor edge sections with the outer sill already attached, but I can't see how they can be of much use, as they must limit access to properly weld the vital heelboard/subframe mount stiffners. By the way, expect to need at least heelboard ends, and some work in the rear bin area.

[jagman.2003]

I'd agree with above, it's worth repairing smaller corrosion spots than changing the whole floor. But if it's that bad it all need to go, there's either two halves of the floor leaving or complete floor. I did the complete floor on mine with tunnel (see mk3 project). I heavily braced the shell & took lots of measurements first. It's a nice clean job then, with only orginal weld seams. But worth remembering the floor & inner sills do have a number of brackets etc. to attach again after.

Edited by jagman.2003, 06 June 2012 - 07:16 AM.

[Lee_bash]

Thanks for the input :)
I guessed a whole floor would be exxecsive- but wasnt sure how much work it would be compared to doing 2 new sills. I think, if it wasn't much more then I'd be tempted to go for that, purely because if done right itd last longer I'm guessing?
Anywho, think I need to start taking it to get quotes done for the work required... there is a hole on the inner sill I know of so they'll need doing.

[Shifty]

Stick some pictures up and let's have a look. It may not be as bad as you think.

If you fancy a ride out to Telford I'll take a look with you and we can see how bad it is.

[Lee_bash]

Ill get a few later. The sound proofing is still down in most areas, so its kind of hard to tell I guess, unless that would just give way?

Cheers for the offer mate- Telford could be abit far I think, seeing as I'm not insured to drive it just now i'd have to get someone else to drive it up, but thanks!

Edited by Lee_bash, 06 June 2012 - 08:53 AM.

[Lee_bash]

Thats the hole on the inner sill, the worse ive found on their so far. Id say its about an inch and half wide, about 4-6'' long, if that.

I chipped all the sound proofing around it away to leave the hole, and metal around it so I could see how big it was...

Edited by Lee_bash, 06 June 2012 - 08:53 AM.

[JustSteve]

I like to replace whole panels rather than repair, partly because I'm a bit OCD, but partly because it's quicker and neater!

If you had a bare shell, I would say to chop it all out... Because somebody else is doing the work, it probably won't work out much/any more expensive, if you add all the labour costs (including tidying the repaining floor).

... HOWEVER- because it's not a bare shell, it would be hard to get at certain areas and it would also be very hard to get suitable bracing in the shell to keep it from flexing.



What I would suggest, is that you buy the floor panels with outer sills attached from m-machine. They do the full widths as well as just the first few inches of the floor if that's all you need

[Lee_bash]

Thanks for that mate, that was my reasoning, the idea that it would come out cleaner afterwards. I didn't know it'd be easier though- how long would it take to do half a floor pan?

[JustSteve]

It's much easier in my opinion, to drill/grind some spot welds, than cut panels to fit perfectly... And you get less distorsion too!

When you say half floorpan, do you mean full length, but half width, with outer sills attached?- if so, I would say it'd take about 4 hours each side, but you can add a lot to that depending on how much you have to repair in the surrounding areas and include things like removing pipe-work and interior.. Then you need to add the painting and undersealing too.

[Lee_bash]

Hmm, I'd probably want to give at least a weekend then to count for any mess ups if I was doing it myself and to just make sure I'm doing things right. Is it something you'd say is do-able, as a beginner, if I take my time and practise welding before hand?

Edited by Lee_bash, 06 June 2012 - 12:38 PM.

[sonikk4]

Even half floor pans maybe excessive here. If you have got oversills fitted and if worst case scenario was to arise then you will most likely only need these inner sill sections from M Machine. They go up to the first flute in the floor and are proper full length inner sills.


11.31.04.37 29.50 Floor Inner Sill to First Groove, left hand, Mk1-5
11.31.04.38 29.50 Floor Inner Sill to First Groove, right hand, Mk1-5

(ignore the price as these are incorrect however it will give you a rough idea of how much they are.)

It still quite a bit of work but a lot easier than chopping out half a full length floor section.I will be using these panels on Project Paddy when i do his resto next year.

[Lee_bash]

ah, that may be the way forward then. How much of the heelboard usually goes?

[sonikk4]

Are you talking about the front kick board or the rear heel board?? The front tends to be ok but the lower flitch section does suffer but a fairly straight forward repair.

The rear heelboard really needs the rear subframe off to make a proper diagnosis of how bad things are. Once the outer sill is off you will be able to see the subframe mounting captive nut and the reinforcement bracket that is attached to the inner sill. These do suffer quite badly but you will need to do some work in this area when you do the inner sill.

Its not the end of the heelboard if these brackets are rotten. You dismantle it and fabricate a new one out of 1.2mm steel sheet and add a small gusset piece to center of it to give it the strength it needs.

Or you can buy them from Somerfordminis

14A9546 and 14A9547

[Rhys]

I had the entire floor done, I'm much happier as I know the whole car is completely rust free. Don't get me wrong, it wasn't easy or cheap and 99% of people would have scrapped the shell but I just couldn't bring myself to do it.