Evening all, Im doing a respray of a mini and im at the filler primer stage and guide coating that back but i keep sanding through even after my experience of doing a respray before on another car where i sanded through i dont seem to have improved.
When i done a car last year i took a chance with some areas i had sanded through on when spraying the colour and i had paint reactions where i have sanded back to the etch primer!
Now obviously i dont want this to happen again so i was wondering can i filler/primer then guide coat that, then if i have sanded through is there a primer i can put on that just literally needs smoothing off with out the need to go so mad flatting panels and to help seal the areas where i may have sanded through the filler/primer
Any help/ advice will be most welecome as i feel like im hitting my head against a brick wall right now what with prime sand prime sand lol Thanks Greg

Calling All Painters (Sanding Through Primer)
Started by
corrado vr6
, May 23 2012 08:58 PM
6 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 23 May 2012 - 08:58 PM
#2
Posted 23 May 2012 - 09:18 PM
sounds like you are trying to catch your tail, if you get what i mean
if you are starting from a bare metal respray, etch primer first, good couple of coats to get a nice base, then you can do your rough fillering, filling the holes. then a primer, and flat this back with something like 120 or 180 grit sandpaper. and then polish off the fillering, making it good
then use a flow coat, we use a standox supplied one. We used it first on my mini, with great results. this can be wet 'n' dryed back, using a guide coat ( or powder) andthen its time for top coat:)
if you are starting from a bare metal respray, etch primer first, good couple of coats to get a nice base, then you can do your rough fillering, filling the holes. then a primer, and flat this back with something like 120 or 180 grit sandpaper. and then polish off the fillering, making it good
then use a flow coat, we use a standox supplied one. We used it first on my mini, with great results. this can be wet 'n' dryed back, using a guide coat ( or powder) andthen its time for top coat:)
#3
Posted 23 May 2012 - 09:27 PM
not to sound silly, are you degreasing before you spray?
#4
Posted 23 May 2012 - 10:03 PM
thanks for replies guys
dont worry im open to any suggestions but yes i have degreased and tack clothed so shouldnt be the fact the panels are dirty, someone i spoke to was saying that most things out of a can will react with the base coat being a metallic which is a 1:1 ratio with thinners no activator, it became very costly last time as i had no choice but to respray my mini shell last time due to 4 reactions on various panels where it seemed the thinners in the topcoat were getting under the primer and causing it to craze
dont worry im open to any suggestions but yes i have degreased and tack clothed so shouldnt be the fact the panels are dirty, someone i spoke to was saying that most things out of a can will react with the base coat being a metallic which is a 1:1 ratio with thinners no activator, it became very costly last time as i had no choice but to respray my mini shell last time due to 4 reactions on various panels where it seemed the thinners in the topcoat were getting under the primer and causing it to craze
#5
Posted 24 May 2012 - 07:37 AM
ok firstly what paint are you using to paint or previously painted with?
there are always going to be reactions depending on types of paint you are using.
if you want some advice you can give me a call, 07815495075
there are always going to be reactions depending on types of paint you are using.
if you want some advice you can give me a call, 07815495075
#6
Posted 24 May 2012 - 07:48 AM
how much primer have you sprayed on there? what are you using to flat it back with? i woudnt suggest something as rough as a 120 or 180 for primer... i use 320s and depending on the color a 500s on the top of that... (DA velcro discs)
if you spray on a guide coat (just get some black spray paint) not hammerite though, and dust it lightly onto the primer, when you sand it back any pinholes will be highlighted in black and you will also be able to see where you have been, this is a good way to get a good even and flat layer ready to blast with the paint...
i think maybe the problem you are having if you are going down to bare metal all the time is either too much sanding (maybe too course paper) or not enough primer in the first place?
if you spray on a guide coat (just get some black spray paint) not hammerite though, and dust it lightly onto the primer, when you sand it back any pinholes will be highlighted in black and you will also be able to see where you have been, this is a good way to get a good even and flat layer ready to blast with the paint...
i think maybe the problem you are having if you are going down to bare metal all the time is either too much sanding (maybe too course paper) or not enough primer in the first place?
#7
Posted 24 May 2012 - 06:29 PM
what primer are you using? use a beige or grey high build primer to help prevent sand thru, also STAY AWAY form HMG paints.
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