329 replies to this topic

[rally515]

Think theres a section to select a smaller size before you click on the part to get the img code.

Also in one of your videos lokks like theres "play" in the cv joint area in between the driveshaft & disc ?

[KieranB]

Think theres a section to select a smaller size before you click on the part to get the img code.

Also in one of your videos lokks like theres "play" in the cv joint area in between the driveshaft & disc ?

Figured it out cheers rally515, i didnt want to have to go through every picture to reduce its size but looks like im gonna have to.

As for the "play" there isn't any, might just be the video, plus all the driveshaft parts are brand new plus the flanges are close to brand new. its more the issue of it only turning so far then stopping, i can turn it but i need both hands to do so. I'm gonna wait till i sort the clutch out before really panicing.

Kieran

[rally515]

Might be the brakes/disc that catching at a single point ? is it rough only in one area ?

[KieranB]

Dont think so no, it feels internal. but as you can see in the video its both directions and it does it on both wheels.

[Kam]

Might be the brakes/disc that catching at a single point ? is it rough only in one area ?

Easiest way to tell - take them out one by one

Pop out the brake pads and spin the hub, to see if its the caliper then pop that off next and spin the hub, if the caliper is catching (if new to the build) it might need some delicate work with a dremel

If you do take the caliper/pads off then start it up, even in neutral there should be some drive going through, the hubs should spin. Switch it off, pop into 1st gear then start up, if its not spinning then there's an issue...

Here's my b16 during its first fire up period, mine was idling around 1500rpm at the time but don't worry about that, car is in neutral so check the hubs...

90 degree silicone bend, still got room to move it if needs be for the m/c





Reservoir in place

Its gonna be tight mate with the m/c in there so brace yourself if you got fat fingers, that inlet hose will not be as easy to slide on. Also make sure that flexible part of the hose is secure in the samco, you don't want that popping off

This is another shot of the driveshafts, are you sure they are right Kam?

Yep spot on mate, thats the angle they sit

I did try and put the front end on to give me an idea of where to put the radiator but that was a fail with just myself trying to put it on with no mole grips

Yep been there...

When I did my front panel mock up I had broomsticks, mole grips, duct tape...and panels being suspended from the roof beams! When your on your own you gotta learn to adapt - and quick!

Just quickly, not sure if I mentioned it or you did but check your lock-to-lock to make sure the braided brake hose clears any CV boots and what nots, if you need to 'spin' it then loosen off that large nut and try again

An update is an update so don't worry. I'd rather you update this to show its still happening than nothing, good work, keep at it

[KieranB]

Cheers for the advice Kam

Had another little play today, nothing worth taking pictures for. I took the calipers off to see if it was them that was causing the issue plus I found out they were the wrong way round Tried turning the hub and still no joy. Was getting quite anxious and worried so I tried my last idea. Bolted the calipers back on, put my wheels on and lowered the car down. Put it in neutral and handbrake off and....it rolled forward the length of the garage and back. Plus I put it in reverse and tried rolling it and it wouldn't budge so it must be something to do with the driveshafts and cv's being at that angle when jacked up. Wierd? Very.

I also did something for the first time today.....bled my brakes. I had never done it before but with the aid of a £5.99 "one man" bleed kit from Halfords i got the entire system done. So now the car rolls and stops I just need to provide POWER!!

Gonna muck about with the front end either tomorrow or monday and try get a money shot of it on

Kieran

Edited by KieranB, 10 February 2013 - 04:26 PM.

[Kam]

Good work on the brakes, it WILL need another one or two bleeds so don't assume its all fine to hit the brakes from 190mph! So until you bleed it again take it EASY ok

The car being up or down will have no bearing on the actual drive coming through, thats what your CV is for, its just replicating what your wheel does when it goes up and down

With it up in the air did you start it up in neutral/first to see if any drive is coming through? If it don't come through then it won't when its back down on earth

[Willy_sa]

Hey,

Can it be that with the suspention unloaded like it is on jack stands, the cv's just go past there working angle and then jams up. If the car is on the ground it should in theory be better?

[Kam]

I've had mine on axles with and without wheels (check out my first vid above) and the hubs spin with it idling, there should be drive coming through even in neutral

Edited by Kam, 13 February 2013 - 08:45 PM.

[KieranB]

A couple of weeks ago I re-sorned the mini........and today I drove it

Been a long time since i've done an update but i've been working on the car every weekend pretty much. Not doing a great deal as i was awaiting parts (mainly the M/C) and lack of funds was limiting me

So last time I had the issue with the wheels not spinning, well to be honest it wasn't getting to me because it rolled fine when it was on the ground. I know it was a problem so spent most of my time researching with no results. So turned my attention to the front end









This was done with my old radiator, i've recently bought this



The front end has been modified slightly to allow the new radiator to sit ok but i'm struggling to get it spot on. I think i need to take the plunge and cut/modify the subframe like Kam and GingerMonkey have done so i can sit the radiator slightly further back. Plus i'm getting the radiator slightly modified to allow the bonnet to shut. All of this is in the research stage with intentions of modifying the subframe next weekend

Also got the back end of the car put back together, boot, bumper etc. Looking a bit more like a car again



I've got some poly-carbonate windows inbound from ACW Motorsport, i sold my old windows for some strange reason, really regret getting rid of everything when i started this project, i'm spending a fortune

Next job was gauges, i wanted oil pressure, temperature and water temperature plus tacho, speedo and fuel. plan is to make a custom dash with my old one, will see how that goes. But for now in order to get oil gauges i need a sandwich.....oil filter one that is not ham and cheese



Check. Got it bolted in...its a bit tight in there now thanks to the b16 oil cooling system



Next some gauges



Check, the water temp turned up after this pic but you get the idea. Got some tacho gauges etc from car audio security, GingerMonkey used them on his mini so thought i'd give them a try. DIdnt get a pic of them fresh out the box but heres a short video of the light show they give you



They are very cool

Ok so next was to get the master cylinder which turned up yesturday, it only took 2 months but thats life. got it shortened and my clevis screwed on



Then bolted it in, plumbed it into the reservoir and bled the clutch. Was a bit of faf at the start because it was too low so the piston wasnt gathering fluid but all sorted now



So after checking i did have a clutch, bearing in mind i'm still running the original clutch in this, it was time for the first drive. I was very very very nervous, would it work? Is first gear totally useless? Can i even drive it?



The accelerator is very sticky thus the jumping about, i took it around a little estate around the corner where i could go through all gears. It runs sweet as a nut, the road is just long enough for me to give the loud pedal a tickle in second gear and my god!!! It fairly shifts and thats with a blowing exhaust

So i think that is us for now, the next plans are to get the welding jobs done next weekend and hopefully get the front end fitted. Tomorrow im gonna install a clutch limiting bolt and tidying up a few things. I'm getting new doors on my next pay check then a full custom exhaust by a mates brother after that. I've got a custom electrics loom being made as we speak and like i said earlier i've got windows in bound

Oh and since driving it, the wheels now spin with it in the air, i think the cvs just needed some movement.

Kieran

Edited by KieranB, 10 March 2013 - 09:18 PM.

[johny:)]

Well done Kieran the first drive is always a good one my fist gear is usless i think i am going to call it a burnout gear looks like its cuming together nicely those gauges look very nice as well

[KieranB]

cheers bud,

I wasn't so sure about 1st, i think it was quite useful for getting into my garage because it is very steep thus why the back suspension is so high on the video.

Couple of photos i forgot to add





Kieran

[Kam]

Fantastic work Kieran and getting a first sneaky drive out of it aswell, impressed mate

Cutting into the frame is the absolute last resort mate, I know I did it but then again I'm a bit silly, there's usually always a way out of everything. I know you got the new ally rad but just so you know (obviously) your old donor rad will work fine even in a cramped bay, I used that rad with my b16a2 clubman front and the temps where more than fine during hot summer runs here and abroad. If you still got some of that silver paint left you could go to town on the rad?

Just saying for an extended front or clubman you shouldn't really be resorting to that for rad fitment as the donor fits and works fine

Obviously your call though, just don't haste it

[KieranB]

Cheers Kam,

I had another play today and after much investigation i've come to the conclusion i'm not attacking the frame, i didnt want to in the first place seeing as thats the way its been made blah blah blah

Haha got plenty silver paint left, keep touching up the engine now and then. But the old rad wasnt from a b16, it was in fact from the D16 engine and the hoses were a little smaller, i didnt realise this at the time of pulling it out of the scrapyard so this new rad will do, plus it was absolutely ruined with most of the fins crushed. I've taken more measurements and cuts out of the front end, got it lined up with the A-panels ready for some metal plates to be welded on to get the front bolted to. But the bonnet just catches the filler cap so spoke to the guy who did the bulkhead box and he has accepted the challenge.

Also got the clutch bolt on today so theres little chance of overthrowing the clutch

Another question for anyone who has done an engine conversion.......what are the rules for changing the V5? I had a look and there seems to be some sort of points system in place? Any advice on what people have done before would be much appreciated

Kieran

Edited by KieranB, 11 March 2013 - 10:11 PM.

[Kam]

Can of worms mate, normal course of action is to send off the amended V5 with the main sections filled in (engine number, engine capacity and type of fuel used) sometimes DVLA just issue your new V5 and sometimes they ask for further paperwork to accompany the change, there is no way of knowing what they will choose to do so if you get your new amended V5 through then great, if not then they will send back your old non amended V5 and you could get a letter like this



Don't panic though its just a letter, also you will probably get both separately (V5 and that letter) as they don't send them in the same envelope

If your able to get a local garage to look over the car for you and they can just confirm on there headed paper that it is engine number xxxx, engine capacity xxxx and type of fuel used xxxx then send it back to them they should be ok with that, basically they just want proof of those details from someone

With my first lump I just sent off the V5 and got that letter so I did bullet point number 4, written confirmation from the manufacture, basically my local Honda were impressed with the build as I kept popping in with requests for unusual parts (as you do in a conversion!) as when I told them what I was doing with the mini they loved it, so as they had my donor car details there (to get the correct parts) they knew what it had so they jotted down the main bits needed - engine number, engine capacity and type of fuel used

For the second lump, when I bought the engine I asked the garage to also make sure the receipt showed the above three main bits, sent it off with my V5 and got it back all amended

Please don't make up some bogus paperwork, DVLA do random checks so you know what will happen if they find out - bye bye car

DVLA don't want the grief, so send it off with any confirmation of the above three main bits, if you're still unsure then you could call them, number I have is from a couple of years ago but hopefully should still be right, 01792 783191 and ask for Lisa Bowen

Yeah the d series rads have I think 28mm hoses as opposed to the b series 32mm's, also the d series are I believe a little thinner, so if you did want to use a factory rad then yeah you need the b one

But if your guy can reweld the top section of the ally rad then cool