17 replies to this topic

[cal844]

I've had bad experience with cheaper brands, I've fitted cheapest and mid range BUT both lasted about 2 months and failed (all my bearings are manually greased by hand) fitted genuine Timken bearings and the car has been fine 2 years (4000 miles) later.

[InnoCOOPER]

You'll torque them up to the figure in the book - which I always knew to be the same whether Ball Bearings or Tapered Rollers (60 ft / lb - sorry, I don't know off hand what the metric number is), then continue tightening the nut until you get the next hole and slot to align for the split pin. In case you weren't aware, as well as the 6 slots (3 in reality) there's also 2 holes through the stub for the pin, so that next bit of tightening shouldn't need a huge movement.

if you Torque up to 60 ft/Ib and it lines up with the hole I presume there is no need to go further to the next hole?  

[Spider]

 

You'll torque them up to the figure in the book - which I always knew to be the same whether Ball Bearings or Tapered Rollers (60 ft / lb - sorry, I don't know off hand what the metric number is), then continue tightening the nut until you get the next hole and slot to align for the split pin. In case you weren't aware, as well as the 6 slots (3 in reality) there's also 2 holes through the stub for the pin, so that next bit of tightening shouldn't need a huge movement.

if you Torque up to 60 ft/Ib and it lines up with the hole I presume there is no need to go further to the next hole?  

 

 

Yes. 60 ft / lb is the minimum, so if you can get there and it lines up, then sweat no more !