11 replies to this topic

[animale]

I followed the 'how to' adjust valve clearances to adjust mine today.
Great 'how to' by the way but I encountered a problem.
I used the 'turning the wheel' to turn the engine over but could only get it to stop when valves 1, 3 and 5 were compressed fully. Separately obviously, but could not get to adjust the respective other valves.

So I feel like I've only done half a job and they're still a little noisy although a lot better.
Any advice peeps.

[jonny d]

Did you take the plugs out it will be easier to turn the wheel you should be able to adjust all the valves using the rule of nine method no1 valve compressed adjust number 8 no 2 valve comp adj no 7 etc

[animale]

Ahhhh take plugs out...didn't do that....will try that on Monday. Thanks

[jonny d]

your welcome animale

[RandyBMC]

Could you point me to the how-to? I looked in the engine section, but didn't see it. Thanks!

[RandyBMC]

Over....

[lrostoke]

its pretty simple

Use some method of turning the engine...either of these work

remove plugs. put in gear, push car..watch valve springs when you see a spring compressed adjust the valve which adds up to 9

eg If spring 6 is compressed, adjust valve 3 , if spring 5 is compressed , adjust valve 4

If you don't have enough flat ground to push car...jack up a front wheel and turn the wheel by hand (car in gear, plugs removed)

Valve clearances

Inlet and exhaust (engine cold):

All engine types except 12A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 mm

12A engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.33 to 0.38 mm

Edited by lrostoke, 05 November 2012 - 11:25 AM.

[Ethel]

The paired valve doesn't need to be at full lift. You're checking the gap when the valve is closed, which it will be for over 300 degrees of crank rotation, with even a full race cam.

[dklawson]

The paired valve doesn't need to be at full lift. You're checking the gap when the valve is closed, which it will be for over 300 degrees of crank rotation, with even a full race cam.

Agreed. When I started adjusting valves I never had heard of the "rule of 9" and things like that. What I did (and do) instead was to pull the spark plugs and remove the distributor cap. I roll the car in gear (or pull the engine over by hand using the fan belt) until the rotor in the dizzy points directly at where one of the terminals on the distributor cap would be. I then adjust the valves for that cylinder. When the rotor is pointing towards a particular dizzy cap terminal/post, that is very close to where that cylinder fires so both valves will be closed.

[RandyBMC]

Thanks, that is really helpful.

I am looking at a set of roller rockers, so if I install those, they obviously won't be adjusted. Therefore, the rule of 9 wouldn't really work. I guess the best way is the distributor technique?

So I have that straight - it will be point the rotor at post 1, then adjust for 1? I should be able to adjust both intake and exhaust for cylinder one at that point, using .012" and .015", since the adjustment is set at valve closed.

Correct me if I'm wrong, and any other tips are always appreciated.

Thanks,
Randy

[dklawson]

One other tip since you mentioned roller rockers. Slide the feeler gauges in from the side, not straight in. You can insert a thicker feeler blade in if you insert it from the front and this gives you a "false" adjustment. Remember to slide the blade in from the side so the roller is not turning when you insert the blade.

[Tamworthbay]

The paired valve doesn't need to be at full lift. You're checking the gap when the valve is closed, which it will be for over 300 degrees of crank rotation, with even a full race cam.

Agreed. When I started adjusting valves I never had heard of the "rule of 9" and things like that. What I did (and do) instead was to pull the spark plugs and remove the distributor cap. I roll the car in gear (or pull the engine over by hand using the fan belt) until the rotor in the dizzy points directly at where one of the terminals on the distributor cap would be. I then adjust the valves for that cylinder. When the rotor is pointing towards a particular dizzy cap terminal/post, that is very close to where that cylinder fires so both valves will be closed.

I have always done it this way, I find it much quicker than the '9' way as well.