29 replies to this topic

[mini13]

ive found std pads better than the green stuff ones, they just seem to fade really easy for me,

 

so mychoice is std pads, or mintex 1144's  the carbonn metalic ones are great, but overkill for the road, and noisy

[Earwax]

Hi xydte

 

As above..... double press...if on cold pads needs fixing, not just managing,,,, if on hot pads then get better pads

[croc7]

A friend found some NOS Ferodo pads for me, those would be my choice if available. Really liked the EBC Red pads as well but they are hard to find. Both perform well and are relatively low dust.

[Cooperman]

Whichever pads you have, you should not have to give any pumps on the pedal to get the brakes to work.
NOS Ferodo should be fine, so long as they are not DS11 which are a race pad with asbestos. They only really work when hot and need a comp brake fluid.
Best road pad is M1144 and best comp pad is C-M.
I have found EBC unsatisfactory, even the Red Stuff.

[Midas Mk1]

Whichever pads you have, you should not have to give any pumps on the pedal to get the brakes to work.
NOS Ferodo should be fine, so long as they are not DS11 which are a race pad with asbestos. They only really work when hot and need a comp brake fluid.
Best road pad is M1144 and best comp pad is C-M.
I have found EBC unsatisfactory, even the Red Stuff.

This. 100% agree. Avoid ebc

[cal844]

Whichever pads you have, you should not have to give any pumps on the pedal to get the brakes to work.
NOS Ferodo should be fine, so long as they are not DS11 which are a race pad with asbestos. They only really work when hot and need a comp brake fluid.
Best road pad is M1144 and best comp pad is C-M.
I have found EBC unsatisfactory, even the Red Stuff.

This. 100% agree. Avoid ebc

I agree also! Much better quality pads available

[GT Jimmy]

Whichever pads you have, you should not have to give any pumps on the pedal to get the brakes to work.
NOS Ferodo should be fine, so long as they are not DS11 which are a race pad with asbestos. They only really work when hot and need a comp brake fluid.
Best road pad is M1144 and best comp pad is C-M.
I have found EBC unsatisfactory, even the Red Stuff.

This. 100% agree. Avoid ebc

Why avoid ebc?

[Midas Mk1]

Whichever pads you have, you should not have to give any pumps on the pedal to get the brakes to work.
NOS Ferodo should be fine, so long as they are not DS11 which are a race pad with asbestos. They only really work when hot and need a comp brake fluid.
Best road pad is M1144 and best comp pad is C-M.
I have found EBC unsatisfactory, even the Red Stuff.

This. 100% agree. Avoid ebc

Why avoid ebc?

I’ve ran black stuffs, lethal imo after three hard stomps faded to nothing, green stuffs weren’t much better, standard mintex or m1144 night and day different

[GT Jimmy]

Whichever pads you have, you should not have to give any pumps on the pedal to get the brakes to work.
NOS Ferodo should be fine, so long as they are not DS11 which are a race pad with asbestos. They only really work when hot and need a comp brake fluid.
Best road pad is M1144 and best comp pad is C-M.
I have found EBC unsatisfactory, even the Red Stuff.

This. 100% agree. Avoid ebc

Why avoid ebc?

I’ve ran black stuffs, lethal imo after three hard stomps faded to nothing, green stuffs weren’t much better, standard mintex or m1144 night and day different

I've got greenstuff on the GT, mini spares sell em as being the best. Had massive fade coming off the M25 last year, scared the crap out of me, Tony was blissfully unaware in front of me lol. Might change em

[xydte]

Whichever pads you have, you should not have to give any pumps on the pedal to get the brakes to work.
NOS Ferodo should be fine, so long as they are not DS11 which are a race pad with asbestos. They only really work when hot and need a comp brake fluid.
Best road pad is M1144 and best comp pad is C-M.
I have found EBC unsatisfactory, even the Red Stuff.

So i should check again on the connections on the brake lines. The only thing i haven't change and maybe I will as soon as possible is the brake adjuster on rear subframe (single line brakes).
I will start again checking the connections. And i will try the m1144. Thanks a lot for the replies!!

Edited by xydte, 26 November 2022 - 10:42 PM.

[cal844]

Whichever pads you have, you should not have to give any pumps on the pedal to get the brakes to work.
NOS Ferodo should be fine, so long as they are not DS11 which are a race pad with asbestos. They only really work when hot and need a comp brake fluid.
Best road pad is M1144 and best comp pad is C-M.
I have found EBC unsatisfactory, even the Red Stuff.

So i should check again on the connections on the brake lines. The only thing i haven't change and maybe I will as soon as possible is the brake adjuster on rear subframe (single line brakes).
I will start again checking the connections. And i will try the m1144. Thanks a lot for the replies!!

Check the unions are tight and try a final bleed all round

[Andosoft]

No way you should be double pumping, sounds dangerous. Also make sure the rears are adjusted correctly, they shouldn’t free spin - should have a certain amount of drag.

[xydte]

No way you should be double pumping, sounds dangerous. Also make sure the rears are adjusted correctly, they shouldn’t free spin - should have a certain amount of drag.

the rears have the drag as you said. they are not free

[MiNiKiN]

Does anyone have experience with the Minispares ULTIMAX STREET 7.5 DISC (GBP103ULTIMAX) on OE discs?
Just asking before I fit them

 

[Cooperman]

If the brake pedal 'pumps up' and there are no obvious fluid leaks it is virtually certain that there is still air in the system. It can be difficult to get the last bubbles out.

 

With regard to EBC pads, I did a rally in Belgium which was all long tarmac stages. A good friend in another Cooper 'S' had been given some EBC Red Stuff to use as it was deemed to be 'race quality'. After about 5 stages he came and said that he had virtually no brakes as they were fading so badly. He had competition brake fluid, so it was not the result of boiling fluid (had that with DOT4 in the past).

I was running C-M pads and had a complete spare set, plus a set of new old-stock Ferodo DS11's. I gave him the new DS11's which he fitted and bedded in properly (that's important with any race pad). He had no further problems, but I retired when a wheel came off mid-stage after the paint on the inside face cracked under the brake heat (lesson:  always make sure the inside face of the wheel is clear of all paint!). On an 'S' with the required 7.5" discs, they glow red-hot on any long tarmac stage.

Edited by Cooperman, 28 November 2022 - 02:37 PM.