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Mini won’t start after work done


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#16 pikey7

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Posted 28 February 2006 - 05:53 PM

After you've tried starting for a while, are the plugs wet? If so, you have fuel.

#17 1984mini25

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Posted 28 February 2006 - 05:53 PM

it hates it that some scumbag equiped it with Lucas electrics!


And a :w00t: Ducellier distributor

#18 m1n1

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Posted 28 February 2006 - 06:05 PM

HI! here's what i do when i have problems.

take the distributor cap off, and have someone turn the engine over, while you look at the points. See if there is a spark here first. If there is, then the problem is probably leads or plugs. if not, look in the other direction, like condensor, low tension wire to coil, etc.

be thankful you don't have electronic ignition. I personally prefer points as they are cheap and so easy to fix.

#19 1984mini25

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Posted 28 February 2006 - 06:17 PM

I did have to re-use my old condenser as while re-moving for painting/cleaning
The insulation on the green wire coming out of it was broken
But I know for a fact the old one worked, but will replace with a new one

Low-tension wire to coil

This is the wire the connector fell off when I was taking it apart so might be me
Will have check if so cut off the connector and re-crimp on a new one

#20 1984mini25

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Posted 28 February 2006 - 06:39 PM

Thanks to all the replys :w00t:

Printed it all out, looks like I have a few things to try

First one being a new battery as mine has been run flat a couple of times now

THANKS

#21 Leonard

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Posted 28 February 2006 - 09:30 PM

its possible to get a duff set of points (halfords proved that to me), and i also bought a dizzy cap (from halfords) that didnt have the sprung pin in the top that pushes on the rotor arm. ive also had a few duff condensers brand new (you know where from). make double sure the points gap is right, as it can move when you tighten the screw

#22 cooper_shaz

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Posted 01 March 2006 - 12:30 PM

Mini won't start after work done

Its got fuel
Turns over, choughs occasionally but no pulse :D

Tried moving the dissi slightly but all that did was either backfire louder


Key Point here...!!


Pour a little petrol into the mouth of the carb and try and start it.


For Safety sake...... DO NOT DO THIS... I know people do it, hell i used to do it with my beetle when it stood for ages, but i learned the hard way and set the engine bay on fire..

If it is back firing dont pour fuel down the carb as you might end up with a nice little fireball spitting ignited fuel all over the front of the car... and it is not easy to put out....!

Get a can of spray easy start and spray it in to the air intake (with the filter removed).

Please be safe, it is not worth it if it all goes wrong...

#23 1984mini25

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Posted 01 March 2006 - 02:38 PM

Pour a little petrol into the mouth of the carb and try and start it.


I used to do this to start small 2stroke engines
Kind of stopped when I had no eyebrows left

Not even going to attempt it on the mini last thing I want is a fireball

#24 1984mini25

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Posted 04 March 2006 - 04:41 PM

Right I have gone over all the connections again and have got my battery on charge ready to re-try tomorrow
Took out the spark plugs and found to be wet, so its getting fuel

Re-placed some of the new components that might have been faulty with the known working ones that are only a few months old
these include the coil, rotor arm, dissi cap, Ht leads and the spark plugs were new as part of the work done

So hopefully what I have done will fix the missing spark prob so it should now fire up

Fingers, toes and everything else crossed that it starts
Thanks,
Karl

#25 robpeacey

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Posted 04 March 2006 - 05:57 PM

just a quick suggestion, are the points of contact for the rotor arm clean? is it a new cap?

the spring loaded contact for the rotor arm in the middle, is that spring loaded or there?

i have had a cap that decided that it didnt need this, needless to say it didnt work!

just an idea, all of the others have been covered.........

#26 1984mini25

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Posted 05 March 2006 - 10:40 PM

Stuck my freshly charged battery on

Tested the to see if the coil had power going into it when the ignition was on, yes but test light was very dim
Replaced connector on that wire and re-tried, which worked gave a much brighter light ;)

Had some one turn the engine over while I held the points apart, very weak spark

Replaced the dissi cap to see what kind of spark I was getting at the plugs, even weaker than at the points could only just see it :-

Would this suggest something is up with the condenser?

Edited by 1984mini25, 05 March 2006 - 11:15 PM.


#27 pikey7

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Posted 05 March 2006 - 10:50 PM

Replaced the dissi cap to see what kind of spark I was getting at the plugs, even weaker than before could only just see it ;)


I didn't think you had a spark at all before?

Anywho... Any spark at the points is good sign (compared to having no spark). It's only a "switch" for the high tension circuit. A rubbish spark though could be a dodgy source for the HT spark (i.e. a dodgy coil). Did you replace that at all? equally tough, if the LT power is down, then the HT power will be down.

You really need to get a multimeter across that coil though. A "dim bulb" (I assume a 12v one) could mean it's getting anywhere between 3 and 8v. That could be good OR bad.

Even with a weak spark, did it start, or sound as if it was getting closer to starting?

#28 1984mini25

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Posted 05 March 2006 - 11:14 PM

(i.e. a dodgy coil). Did you replace that at all?


Yes when it wouldn’t start first off I changed back to the coil it had before I re-placed it because of a misfire some time ago, only it wasn’t the coil in the end so I know it worked

The coil that is on now is the one it had when it was running the few months before I did the work to the engine

But it did used to misfire very slightly at idle sometimes, went for a drive and it would stop misfiring
Till it would do it again a few days even weeks later

And it would just cut out when slowing down for no reason, might only of done it once one day and stop for a few days and do it several times in one trip then be fine again

The only thing I can think of is the coil is not a genuine part but does say it’s designed to be used on a ballasted system
Which is what I have, but even so 3k is a bit of a short life for a coil isn’t it?

Even with a weak spark, did it start, or sound as if it was getting closer to starting?


Nope didn’t start was getting very close to starting up

Will be out buying a Multimeter tomorrow and probably ordering a genuine coil from minispares

Although can I put a Ht lead directly on to the coil with a spark plug touching the block to see what kind of spark I get?

#29 pikey7

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Posted 06 March 2006 - 12:53 AM

but even so 3k is a bit of a short life for a coil isn’t it?


yes, but with electrics, there's never any guarantees. Things just go.

Will be out buying a Multimeter tomorrow and probably ordering a genuine coil from minispares


Hold fire on the coil. the multimeter might have the answers. A couple of hours won't make any differene to MS anyhow!

Although can I put a Ht lead directly on to the coil with a spark plug touching the block to see what kind of spark I get?


I've never seen it done. It might be for a good reason, or it might be that i've missed a trick. It wouldn't really tell you anything anyway, only if the dizzy cap/rotor is good. (which if you're getting spark, even a weak one, show it's 99% sure to be OK.

Nope didn’t start was getting very close to starting up


That's a good sign. It's progress. It also sounds like it now may *just* be down to a weak spark

Just get that multimeter reading when you can and we'll find out more.




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