Flywheel Removal Tips
Started by
AntsClubby
, Mar 25 2012 12:41 PM
9 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 25 March 2012 - 12:41 PM
Hi,
Im rebuilding my 1275cc A+, ive come to the part needing to remove the flywheel.
Do i actually need the special BL tool or are there other options?
Cheers
Ant
Im rebuilding my 1275cc A+, ive come to the part needing to remove the flywheel.
Do i actually need the special BL tool or are there other options?
Cheers
Ant
#2
Posted 25 March 2012 - 01:05 PM
Yes you need a flywheel puller specific to the job, but easily obtainable.
#3
Posted 25 March 2012 - 01:29 PM
Any idea where to get one from? Will it come with all the bolts etc?
Cheers
Cheers
#4
Posted 25 March 2012 - 03:37 PM
here ...
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item519a11574d
I have always found , if the flywheel is tight , leave it overnight ,
and gently tap the flywheel as well ,
make sure engine is at TDC (1 & 4)
best of luck
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item519a11574d
I have always found , if the flywheel is tight , leave it overnight ,
and gently tap the flywheel as well ,
make sure engine is at TDC (1 & 4)
best of luck
Edited by sledgehammer, 25 March 2012 - 03:40 PM.
#5
Posted 25 March 2012 - 08:31 PM
Sorry for hijack, but can one of the experts on this forum please advise...
Couple of threads running about flywheel removal with differing advice on position for the flywheel when using the puller. Some are saying put pistons 1&4 at TDC, other sugestion is for the slot in the end of the flywheel to be horizontal.
If the point is to stop the C-washer possibly slipping and jamming the flywheel during removal which one is correct?
Couple of threads running about flywheel removal with differing advice on position for the flywheel when using the puller. Some are saying put pistons 1&4 at TDC, other sugestion is for the slot in the end of the flywheel to be horizontal.
If the point is to stop the C-washer possibly slipping and jamming the flywheel during removal which one is correct?
#6
Posted 25 March 2012 - 09:00 PM
I'm no expert ... but ...
when at TDC the C washer sits on top of the carrier washer (not sure that is the real name)
when at BDC the C washer sits underneath - so it can drop down and jam the flywheel (it probably won't - but it can)
also on non verto clutch there is an 'A' stamped on the back plate , and diaphragm spring all to go to top with crank at TDC
when at TDC the C washer sits on top of the carrier washer (not sure that is the real name)
when at BDC the C washer sits underneath - so it can drop down and jam the flywheel (it probably won't - but it can)
also on non verto clutch there is an 'A' stamped on the back plate , and diaphragm spring all to go to top with crank at TDC
#7
Posted 25 March 2012 - 09:08 PM
Halfords do a laser puller that works.
#8
Posted 26 March 2012 - 01:49 AM
I used a multi-purpose steering wheel puller and my fancy one of kind flywheel lock and it cam out in a matter of minutes. Per the Rover manual, the slot must be horizontal.
Edited by xrocketengineer, 26 March 2012 - 01:55 AM.
#9
Posted 26 March 2012 - 11:45 AM
It may be a silly question but if ive already removed the camshaft can i just turn the flywheel to get 1 and 4 TDC?
Whats the likelyhood that if i just try and remove it in the position its in it will still come off?
Will i really screw things up if i dont pull off at TDC?
Sorry again if my questions are basic ive never worked on an engine before.
Ive bought a Laser 0301 puller from Halfords, only cost £20 just need to do the job now
Cheers
Whats the likelyhood that if i just try and remove it in the position its in it will still come off?
Will i really screw things up if i dont pull off at TDC?
Sorry again if my questions are basic ive never worked on an engine before.
Ive bought a Laser 0301 puller from Halfords, only cost £20 just need to do the job now
Cheers
#10
Posted 26 March 2012 - 11:53 AM
To clarify the piston position when pulling the flywheel, there is a 'C' washer which retains the primary gear. This is supposed to be fitted vertically from the top when 1 & 4 are at TDC. If this is the case, then when pulling the flywheel with 1 & 4 at TDC there is no risk of the C-washer falling out and jamming the whole thing up. However, in the unlikely even of the C-ewasher being fitted from the bottom upwards, it could fall out with 1 & 4 at TDC. So, if you didn't build the engine yourself it's best to have the pistins at 1/2 stroke, i.e. with the flywheel slot horizontal, then you know it's ok.
It's best to buy a proper flywheel puller and, ideally a flywheel locking tool then the job is safe and straightforward.
Flywheels can be notoriously hard to remove and patience is the key virtue.
Get the right tools, have a go and if you have problems come back on here for more advice.
It's best to buy a proper flywheel puller and, ideally a flywheel locking tool then the job is safe and straightforward.
Flywheels can be notoriously hard to remove and patience is the key virtue.
Get the right tools, have a go and if you have problems come back on here for more advice.
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