Previously known as 'mra-minis.co.uk'.
Posted 13 March 2016 - 01:47 PM
I need to replace the far left one when standing inf ront of the engine ( Cylinder 4) Is it easy? Or hard?
I realise this is a little old, however.....
Just for reference, all parts on or in a car are taken as viewed from the drivers seat, ie the 4th core plug you mention is on the RHS of the engine
Crazy About Mini's
Posted 13 March 2016 - 02:16 PM
But I have an LHD car ;)
I need to replace the far left one when standing inf ront of the engine ( Cylinder 4) Is it easy? Or hard?
I realise this is a little old, however.....
Just for reference, all parts on or in a car are taken as viewed from the drivers seat, ie the 4th core plug you mention is on the RHS of the engine
Previously known as 'mra-minis.co.uk'.
Posted 13 March 2016 - 02:34 PM
But I have an LHD car ;)
I need to replace the far left one when standing inf ront of the engine ( Cylinder 4) Is it easy? Or hard?
I realise this is a little old, however.....
Just for reference, all parts on or in a car are taken as viewed from the drivers seat, ie the 4th core plug you mention is on the RHS of the engine
i ve always seen the engine parts numbered from the water pump end anyway. Was the first job ive done on my mini, amazing how much rust comes out a 160k km engine!
lol, that is exactly why the hand of drive is not mentioned
I use a rust remover in one of my machines to just pour and flush to remove the rust, works well and I can just leave it till it's done.
Edited by MRA, 13 March 2016 - 02:37 PM.
Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011
Posted 14 March 2016 - 07:36 PM
Twisted Paint Polisher!!!
Posted 14 March 2016 - 07:42 PM
It is the same convention as a ship and an aircraft. Left (port) & right (starboard) are looking towards the front.
As the acronym ALF attests to, Aft Looking Fwd.
One Carb Or Two?
Posted 14 March 2016 - 09:42 PM
Any red port left? if you like drinking port that is..
Previously known as 'mra-minis.co.uk'.
Posted 20 March 2016 - 05:42 PM
Did somebody mention port....
Mini Mad
Posted 27 December 2021 - 01:07 AM
I know this is an old thread but I'd like to see this tool you speak of if still about.Yes they can be knocked in too far.
As above leave them level with the inner part of the chamfer...
I have a very specific tool for these that only allows them to get to the required depth.
The oil galleries need to be brushed through using a 3/8" diameter, long bottle or oil way brush.
Edited by weeally, 28 December 2021 - 11:05 PM.
Moved Into The Garage
Posted 13 January 2022 - 10:04 PM
I know this is an old thread but I'd like to see this tool you speak of if still about.
Look up 'Boiler Tuber Cleaning Brushes', eg-
https://www.solobrus...e-tube-brushes/
There are a few different types, some for hand, some for power operation. Just those by hand will be quite satisfactory. You may not get a brush long enough to go right through the block, but if you come in from each end, you'll get them.
Don't go too 'fat' on the brush and I would recommend steel brushes, rather than brass or Stainless. You'll find after a few uses they may start shedding wires, at least with steel, a magnet works here. Also, after the final clean, use a small torch and look through every oil way, not just to check they are clean, but also that no wires are left behind.
I would also strongly recommend the Oil Pressure Relief Valve Seat be pulled, if for no other reason, so you can inspect the 3rd Main Bearing Oil Feed properly.
Mini Mad
Posted 15 January 2022 - 09:34 AM
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