15 replies to this topic

[yousmeg]

Hi,

Im not quite sure what to call it, so here is a pic to show what i mean:



Its not all that clear in this pic, but on mine it has a hexagonal fitment on the base, so i assume it screws into the water pump.

Anyway, mine is rather corroded so id rather replace it now while the engine is out. I cant find anywhere that sells these, so does anyone know where i can get one?

Thanks
James

[MGBailey007]

If i was you when you but it back together buy a silicone hose for it instead of the standard one they split all the time, i have also seen people use copper pipe instead of a hose, but as for the part you are talking about i didn't know you could take thet little metal tube out i just thought it was one solid piece

Matt

[dklawson]

I have never seen a water pump where the bypass nipple was a separate part like you describe. You could "probably" remove the old one (if it is really a separate part) and replace it with a threaded, barbed hose nipple from the DIY center. Alternatively, you could fit a new pump while you have the old one off.

As above, use a high quality piece of hose between the pump and head so you don't have to deal with a bypass hose failure in the near future. I used a piece of heavy-duty 1/2" heater hose. The silicone hose suggested above would probably be even better.

[iDemonix]

Fit a new pump. My local auto factors had one in for £25, and you can get a silicon bypass hose cut to length for 3-4 quid from minispares, or just get some silicon pipe the right diameter + cut to length. Just make sure you buy a pump with the bypass.

[Cooperman]

Blank the damn thing off and have done with it. If you have the pump with the cast-in stub, you can tap the internal dia. of the stub to 3/8" UNC and fit a short bolt with some sealer. The head can be fitted with a blanking plug or fill the hole with Araldite and a stub bolt, or braze a short bolt into the stub on the head.

[yousmeg]

Oh - I assume sometime in the past the pipe has rotted away so they drilled it out, tapped a hole and found a new pipe with a thread on the end. I will take a pic next time im in the garage to show you all.

Blank the damn thing off and have done with it. If you have the pump with the cast-in stub, you can tap the internal dia. of the stub to 3/8" UNC and fit a short bolt with some sealer. The head can be fitted with a blanking plug or fill the hole with Araldite and a stub bolt, or braze a short bolt into the stub on the head.

Are they not needed Cooperman? I find it hard to believe BL would spend money where they didn't need to? haha



If i dont decide to blank it off as cooperman says, i will be fitting a silicone hose.

Thanks for the replies people

[Dan]

Your engine must have a coolant bypass but it doesn't have to be arranged using the bypass hose, later Minis used other methods as standard and many people have modified the system on their own car. There is nothing wrong with bypass hoses though, if fitted properly.

[Cooperman]

Since they are a source of unreliability I never fit one on any rally car. But then I don't have a thermostat, I have a blanking sleeve. When I have deleted the by-pass hose on road cars I just drill a few 4 mm dia holes in the thermostat flange and that works fine. That blooming hose is a real PITA and better removed completely.

[AVV IT]

In my experience standard bypass hose is just a short length of 1/2" heater hose and works just fine, although replacing it with a silicon or Kevlar version is never a bad idea for extra reliability. It's the "fluted" type of replacement bypass hose that has the bad reputation and gives the bypass hose concept such a bad name. The fluted type is compressible and can therefore be fitted without removing the head or the waterpump (if you are a contortionist with double jointed thumbs and an awful lot of patience that is ) It's really only supposed to be used as a temporary roadside repair though, which is why they often fail a matter of months after fitting, if you try and use one as a permanent measure. http://www.minispare...id=36718&title=

Edited by AVV IT, 12 March 2012 - 04:23 PM.

[yousmeg]

Thanks for your replies people, after going through the box of new bits i have to go on the car i found a bypass hose, so i will be fitting it (hopefully i wont regret it too soon!)

Anyway, here are some pics of my fitting i said about. The hexagon was a perfect fit on a 19mm socket so i imagine this is a repair job as i said before










Anyone seen anything like this before?

[yousmeg]

bump

[tiger99]

How old is your engine? I am sure that my 1962 van had a screwed in fitting, but the 1976 and 1984 models were cast.

[yousmeg]

Im 90% sure its the original 1978 1098.

it is definately a 1098 though

[Ethel]

Maybe it was someone's bright idea to try & make replacing the hose easier?

[dklawson]

I have seen pictures of several such pumps but I would be very, very surprised if they were used in 1978. The screw in nipples were used on the cast iron pumps used decades ago. I am pretty certain that when the switch was made to die cast pump housings the nipple was integrated into the casting.