
Drum To Disc Brake Conversion - How To?
Started by
dasupersprint
, Mar 06 2012 06:51 PM
9 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 06 March 2012 - 06:51 PM
Hi, Here's a simple question.
I wanted to convert to disc brakes. Bought the conversion kit from Minispares. In exchange of a big hole in my bank account, I received a whole bunch of parts and bits. I have no idea what to do with them.
I thought I would receive some sort of instructions with it but no, I have to figure it out myself.
Anyone documented a similar conversion?
Thanks
I wanted to convert to disc brakes. Bought the conversion kit from Minispares. In exchange of a big hole in my bank account, I received a whole bunch of parts and bits. I have no idea what to do with them.
I thought I would receive some sort of instructions with it but no, I have to figure it out myself.
Anyone documented a similar conversion?
Thanks
#2
Posted 06 March 2012 - 07:01 PM
the best thing to do is look in the haynes manual, its practically the same procedure for 10" and 12" brakes, it isnt difficult to do.
#3
Posted 06 March 2012 - 07:34 PM
Depends how many 'bits' you got.......does it include hub carriers ?
#5
Posted 07 March 2012 - 05:44 PM
That link errors!
#6
Posted 08 March 2012 - 08:45 AM
i am thinking the same thing for my car.. MiniSpord to a KAD Conversion kit for just under £600 i imagine its change the hub bolt caliper bracket and fit the caliper and attach the handbrake cable i cant see why it would be difficult, or why you would need to do anything else.. but im a mechanic and strip hubs all the time mainly landrover or HGV but the landrovers are so simple.
#7
Posted 10 March 2012 - 04:10 PM
I am working on a set of instructions for this exact question since I found myself in the same situation and the Haynes manual left something to be desired.
Time Required: 16-20 hours
Special Tools: CV Boot Retainer pliers, Bearing race installation tool, Press (not required, but helpful), Flare nut tools
Parts NOT included in the kit:
Replacement front rubber brake lines - the drum lines (old ones) are too long and tend to rub. The correct lines (and copper washers) are not expensive, mine were $20 and we tend to pay a large “English Car Part Import Fee” or as you might call it Insane Markup here in the states.
Inner CV boot retainer. You can look at the one included with the outer CV boot that came in your kit to see what I am talking about. My car was already using Zip ties effectively so I did the same.
Part 1: Remove Old Parts
Remove the front wheels
Remove the old drum, hub and backing plate. To make removal easier I cut the front brake lines as I would not be using them again and they were old anyhow so I would not sell them as parts. Leave the car side connected for now.
Remove the Half-shaft from the car, taking care to remove the inner boot in tact as a new one is not supplied.
Clean and Inspect the half-shaft for bearing wear or damage particularly on the splines.
Note: The steering arm has a bracket, 2 bearings and 2 bolts which will need to be retained. The copper washer will be replaced. Do not lose these parts.
Part 2: Assemble on Bench
Starting with the new hub - insert the bearing races in the center. Start with one side, then insert the included spacer between the races. Pack the bearing and install the boot. Be careful not to damage the boot or insert it too far/hard.
Grease the ball joints and install them. The one with the spring does not get spacers, the one without gets ALL the spacers. You will remove them to align the car as the joint ages. Do not tighten these down as you need to be able to manipulate the boot bolt to install on the car. Make sure the silver ring gets installed between the hub and the ball joint and install the brass grease nipples.
Install the rotor on the spline hub. Use a impact screwdriver to set the screws
Install Rotor and spline on hub.
Install Outer CV joint on half shaft
Install Shaft on Hub. Install spacer on outside and thread on nut. Do not install the cotter pin at this point. It will be done on the car.
Tie down the boot using the supplied bands
Install on the car.
Install the brake pads into the caliper - I did not install the caliper on the hub until I had it on the car.
Part 3: Install on Car
Part 4: Bleed Brakes and Visual Inspection
Part 5: Initial Drive
Part 6: Torque to Spec and Inspect
Part 7: Drive and Enjoy
I will add more as I have time.
Time Required: 16-20 hours
Special Tools: CV Boot Retainer pliers, Bearing race installation tool, Press (not required, but helpful), Flare nut tools
Parts NOT included in the kit:
Replacement front rubber brake lines - the drum lines (old ones) are too long and tend to rub. The correct lines (and copper washers) are not expensive, mine were $20 and we tend to pay a large “English Car Part Import Fee” or as you might call it Insane Markup here in the states.
Inner CV boot retainer. You can look at the one included with the outer CV boot that came in your kit to see what I am talking about. My car was already using Zip ties effectively so I did the same.
Part 1: Remove Old Parts
Remove the front wheels
Remove the old drum, hub and backing plate. To make removal easier I cut the front brake lines as I would not be using them again and they were old anyhow so I would not sell them as parts. Leave the car side connected for now.
Remove the Half-shaft from the car, taking care to remove the inner boot in tact as a new one is not supplied.
Clean and Inspect the half-shaft for bearing wear or damage particularly on the splines.
Note: The steering arm has a bracket, 2 bearings and 2 bolts which will need to be retained. The copper washer will be replaced. Do not lose these parts.
Part 2: Assemble on Bench
Starting with the new hub - insert the bearing races in the center. Start with one side, then insert the included spacer between the races. Pack the bearing and install the boot. Be careful not to damage the boot or insert it too far/hard.
Grease the ball joints and install them. The one with the spring does not get spacers, the one without gets ALL the spacers. You will remove them to align the car as the joint ages. Do not tighten these down as you need to be able to manipulate the boot bolt to install on the car. Make sure the silver ring gets installed between the hub and the ball joint and install the brass grease nipples.
Install the rotor on the spline hub. Use a impact screwdriver to set the screws
Install Rotor and spline on hub.
Install Outer CV joint on half shaft
Install Shaft on Hub. Install spacer on outside and thread on nut. Do not install the cotter pin at this point. It will be done on the car.
Tie down the boot using the supplied bands
Install on the car.
Install the brake pads into the caliper - I did not install the caliper on the hub until I had it on the car.
Part 3: Install on Car
Part 4: Bleed Brakes and Visual Inspection
Part 5: Initial Drive
Part 6: Torque to Spec and Inspect
Part 7: Drive and Enjoy
I will add more as I have time.
#8
Posted 16 March 2012 - 12:51 PM
Well thanks a lot for that majornerd, that is a lot of details that I didn't have! I'll take pictures when I do this so I can document a bit the process. But this will be in months, or even next year.
#9
Posted 16 March 2012 - 01:53 PM
I spy a Canadian Mini!
, they also do one on balljoints, between them that should just about have you sorted. I'm not sure about drifting bearings & seals with a pin punch though
, they also do one on balljoints, between them that should just about have you sorted. I'm not sure about drifting bearings & seals with a pin punch though

#10
Posted 16 March 2012 - 03:39 PM
Where in CA are you? I'm in SK.
I did the conversion on mine
I'm curious what your kit cost after postage and stuff from minispares.
I got mine through Craig in BC ( Hunter Classic )
I did the conversion on mine
I'm curious what your kit cost after postage and stuff from minispares.
I got mine through Craig in BC ( Hunter Classic )
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users