I.c.e. Upgrade For Bottom
#1
Posted 01 March 2012 - 08:50 PM
The front of the car will stay the same speaker wise
The sub and 6x9 are going
In there place i am installing this lot
I am hoping to fit the subs in the rear side bins, in a couple of 20 litre boxes
When screwed up i should end up with a pair looking a bit like this
All because i want to work around my roll cage and keep the rear seat
I still need a few bits for the sub boxes and i will update when i get some more done.
#2
Posted 01 March 2012 - 09:11 PM
#3
Posted 01 March 2012 - 10:26 PM
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#4
Posted 01 March 2012 - 10:26 PM
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#5
Posted 02 March 2012 - 08:05 PM
Thanks for that, got to get moving on it as the shows are starting soonlooking good, can't advise on anything, but want to see it progress
#6
Posted 02 March 2012 - 08:09 PM
I love the tweeters in the door. Great idea, is it just a panel welded or bolted to the door?
(null)
thanks, the tweets are held in place with a 2 part silicone type glue, been there for about 2 years so sticks pretty wellAlso what speakers/HU/amps/subs are you using?
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I will post up the tech stuff about what was in/now going in the car over the weekend as it is all in the garage
#7
Posted 03 March 2012 - 01:56 PM
JVC PDR61 headunit
Infinity kappa 3 way components up front
Pair of Audiobahn AS690 6X9 under rear seat
Audiobahn AW1051T 10" sub mounted on rear parcel shelf with the flame basket showing
Powered through a JL Audio 600/4 amp
The parts of the system that are coming out are
the head unit
6x9 and the sub
going to sell on e-bay probably
They are being replaced with
Pioneer DEH-P88RS headunit
A pair of DLS RW10 subs in 18/20 litre enclosures( in rear bins)
And a second JL Audio 600/4 amp just to run the subs.
I think the hardest part will be building my sub boxes as i am trying to work around a roll cage, at least it will give me something to think about. Let me know what you think and i will update hopefully tomorrow after some more work on the sub boxes.
#8
Posted 04 March 2012 - 02:57 PM
Check my build in the ICE build section for some pics on how I did my box. I used 12mm mdf strips about 30mm wide & built up the curve at the back. You will also have to have the front of the box where the sub mounts sticking out a bit & take into account the volume of the sub sticking into the box to get 20L from it, at a guess I think mine worked out between 16-18L which is a little bit small for my sub & my mounting depth is only 110mm (yours is 150mm). DLS recommend using 18mm MDF but that would make the internal volume too small for fitting in a bin.
Are you going to use fiberglass at all on your box?
edit: 1 more thing, use a speaker grill or some sort of cover/protection for your sub. If your doing sound competitions you'll get more points for it. Contact Ruckus too about the judging rules & criteria as he's one of the judges that do SMD & L2B & is always happy to help out.
Edited by Brams96, 04 March 2012 - 03:01 PM.
#9
Posted 04 March 2012 - 04:16 PM
Nice gear you've chosen. From experience you will find building the boxes a PITA.
Check my build in the ICE build section for some pics on how I did my box. I used 12mm mdf strips about 30mm wide & built up the curve at the back. You will also have to have the front of the box where the sub mounts sticking out a bit & take into account the volume of the sub sticking into the box to get 20L from it, at a guess I think mine worked out between 16-18L which is a little bit small for my sub & my mounting depth is only 110mm (yours is 150mm). DLS recommend using 18mm MDF but that would make the internal volume too small for fitting in a bin.
Are you going to use fiberglass at all on your box?
edit: 1 more thing, use a speaker grill or some sort of cover/protection for your sub. If your doing sound competitions you'll get more points for it. Contact Ruckus too about the judging rules & criteria as he's one of the judges that do SMD & L2B & is always happy to help out.
To be honest i fully expect you are right about the pods, then again the car isn't called BOTTOM for nothing but thats another story. I have looked are your bin builds obout 20 times, the roll cage does restrict the width a little but i can come in over the rear seat, as my car has front bucket seats and 3 point harnesses, so no rear passengers to worry about. I will be fibre glassing the open area of the box but as it is in the garage with no heating, i am waiting for the first one to set up. Should be fun though as i have never used fibre glass before.
#10
Posted 04 March 2012 - 09:54 PM
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#11
Posted 04 March 2012 - 11:58 PM
Surely it's going to be a lot easier to create a fibreglass box by just building up a mould in the bins? Mdf would be a pita because it would take ages to get the shape right.
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I have a feeling BlueTurbo wants to avoid loads of GRP work due to a lack of experience with it, which is fair enough.
Also he's is keeping me out of the spot light, but this IS a Ruckus guided reload ;)
The kit (especially the HU) is all top class. I can't wait to get my hand on it for setup should add up to something really special.
Edited by Ruckus, 05 March 2012 - 12:01 AM.
#12
Posted 05 March 2012 - 02:50 PM
#13
Posted 05 March 2012 - 06:34 PM
Joe is spot on about the glassing, mainly as i have only tried it once before and ended up with more on my gloves than what i was working on, also my garage has no heating in. Due to this the cloth and 2 part resin/hardener that i am using on my sub boxes, which at around 20 degrees goes off in around 2 hours, was still curing tonight a 6.00 when i got home from work.Surely it's going to be a lot easier to create a fibreglass box by just building up a mould in the bins? Mdf would be a pita because it would take ages to get the shape right.
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#14
Posted 05 March 2012 - 06:35 PM
With a bit of luck it should get it's first big test at L2BNice one Joe, I look forward to seeing some pics & hearing it at some shows.
#15
Posted 06 March 2012 - 09:50 AM
With a bit of luck it should get it's first big test at L2B
if we do it this year... we are not happy with them.
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