Rsp Mini Cooper - 2-Way Sq Build
#16
Posted 04 March 2012 - 07:04 PM
and thats with the banana plugs connected, very tidy
So today i did a test install on my bedroom floor using a jumpstart battery. all connected up, i first tested the sub. Was really quiet with all the settings down. So i turned the input sensitivity or gain up, which helped a little but not a huge amount. was a lot more clear the bass tho. I also tried the bass boost (or twin-t bass eq, as PG calls it) and that helped a little more. I still had to turn the sub volume up on the HU (this can be done using the dedicated sub pre-out) but had to turn that to full! crazy, and still at half volume, which is loud it was a bit better, but now i'm worried that maybe the box is too small. JL recommend a 17.7ltre box (sealed) and i did 17ltres because that what i could fit. also made the box a more round number to house (300x300x300mm).
So not sure there. but it could be because it powered off the jumpstart battery or the setting aren' correct. but luckily the guy I bought most of the speakers from its pretty knowledgable with all this, so when i get the RCA's from him I'll see if i can get him to get me a hand setting it up.
Next I plugged in the speakers. These being the 5.25" Oz Audio speakers. Now these are something else. The bass that these have on there own is amazing especially for a 5.25" speaker, the clarity and quality of sound from them is awesome, or alt least from what i'm used to. When I got them I was told that the tweeters on them where really the main draw for these and they really ar! the detail and clarity on them is amazing, I was listening to the new metronomy album which sounds to be a very well recorded one, its really one of those albums that you can pick each instrument and sound out, and you really could especially on the little synth sound the tweeters picked it all up with such accuracy.
I just can't wait to get it in and set up right. Excited as hell!
anyway heres a little picture of it all plugged in...
#17
Posted 04 March 2012 - 07:05 PM
Very impressive so far, keep the updates coming
cheers! Good to hear from people, especially as its my first build.
#18
Posted 05 March 2012 - 08:38 AM
#19
Posted 05 March 2012 - 09:20 AM
#20
Posted 05 March 2012 - 09:48 AM
Re the sub having low output, have you set your gains correctly ?
not sure. I have two gains dials, one for each channel. I'm using the rear channels bridged for the amp. The dial goes from 8 to .2. I had it at about 2/3rd's round and it was just about OK, but I also had the sub level on my HU at nearly max. So not sure what should be correct. I've been trying to find out what the max input voltage range is for the gains on my amp, to give me a better idea on what it should be at.
#21
Posted 05 March 2012 - 09:59 AM
So I prlly had it at more than 2 volts which is the max my HU can provide. so unsure what to do?
#22
Posted 05 March 2012 - 10:24 AM
Click it back to about 8 or 9/10 of volume for both sub out and main volume output and set it up from there.
The sub output might not have a separate output control (Internally if you know what i mean) so it might be ok to leave it at 100%
this is a good little guide.
http://www.the12volt...~TID~85479~PN~1
#23
Posted 05 March 2012 - 11:18 AM
Almost all but the best head units will output a clipped signal at max volume.
Click it back to about 8 or 9/10 of volume for both sub out and main volume output and set it up from there.
The sub output might not have a separate output control (Internally if you know what i mean) so it might be ok to leave it at 100%
this is a good little guide.
http://www.the12volt...~TID~85479~PN~1
Not sure what you mean.
When you say "Click it back to about 8 or 9/10 of volume for both sub out and main volume" are you talking about the main volume control on the HU or the gains on the amp?
And "The sub output might not have a separate output control (Internally if you know what i mean) so it might be ok to leave it at 100%" now are you talking about the sub level on HU or the amp again.
Sorry to be a bit dim, just want to make sure!
#24
Posted 05 March 2012 - 12:36 PM
i will however say that if it was me, id be selling that phenoix amp and getting a 2ch for the components and mono for the sub.
the subs rated up to 500w rms, yet bridged, youll only be providing it with 200w rms max - infact, your only just in the minimum rms rating at 200w.
#25
Posted 05 March 2012 - 01:06 PM
looks good, i have the 1st gen ipod headunit - love it!
i will however say that if it was me, id be selling that phenoix amp and getting a 2ch for the components and mono for the sub.
the subs rated up to 500w rms, yet bridged, youll only be providing it with 200w rms max - infact, your only just in the minimum rms rating at 200w.
Actually 200watts is fine 250watts is optimum, that sub can take 500watts maximum after that you bugger it up
see here: http://bit.ly/zl7r7y click on spec's tab and see the little illustration for recommended power.
I was thinking about selling the PG amp and getting a Genesis one as they seem to go for about the money I bought the PG for, on eBay and TA.
A genesis profile 3 or 4 (i think) was recommended to me as they take up much less room than the PG and they sound soooo much better!
But its all money and time, so we'll see what happens. I'll have to see what I can sell the PG for first
#26
Posted 05 March 2012 - 02:12 PM
Edited by TheOriginalMiniator, 05 March 2012 - 02:12 PM.
#27
Posted 05 March 2012 - 02:34 PM
But thanks anyway
#28
Posted 05 March 2012 - 03:03 PM
Mine 'only' has 275 and that powering a single 10" in a undersized box in the boot. And i can promise you its loud enough for normal listening at 90mph.
running any speaker under its rated power is not a problem and nor is running a speaker over its rated power, as long as its all set up right.
These minimum, optimum and maximum figures the manufacturer's supply are really for those that don't have a clue about correct set up and kit matching. They are really only their to cover their ass in case of a warranty claim.
I've run 400 watts subs with 80 watts rms, and 300 watts subs with 600 watts RMS... its all good.
Any way back to the topic.
The 10W3v3 'ideally' should have between 200 and 300 watts RMS. The differences in output between 200 and 300 watts will be a couple of DB, 4 or 5 at most.
More important is setting the amp/gain/headunit up correctly accounting for enclosure design. If the enclosure is undersized then the speaker with have 'tighter' suspension and will be able to take a little more power, hit harder (more controlled) but wont be as loud.
Where as with a bigger enclosure it will lack the control but will be louder with less power.
This is purely for Sealed enclosures though, as messing with ported boxes is a load more complicated and should not be guessed at.
Edited by Ruckus, 05 March 2012 - 03:04 PM.
#29
Posted 05 March 2012 - 03:06 PM
Not sure what you mean.
When you say "Click it back to about 8 or 9/10 of volume for both sub out and main volume" are you talking about the main volume control on the HU or the gains on the amp?
Headunit Volume controls
And "The sub output might not have a separate output control (Internally if you know what i mean) so it might be ok to leave it at 100%" now are you talking about the sub level on HU or the amp again.
Again Headunit.
#30
Posted 05 March 2012 - 03:24 PM
From what I heard when I first set it, it was nice punchy bass not vague, boomy (and crappy ) like my brothers cheapy vibe twin 12"s
So after a little fettling of settings it should sound nice! (I hope )
Edited by freshairmini, 05 March 2012 - 03:25 PM.
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