8 replies to this topic

[steviejam73]

Hi,

My mini has been off the road for too long now. About a month ago I decided to start getting it ready for MOT again so checked the oil and water level, hooked up a battery and after a few mins she's running. Not bad for nearly a year sitting. A month later I have to move the car so try and start it. Its starting and running 100% but the ignition switch appears to be faulty.

The ignition will turn on and when turned to the starter position the starter operates. However when releasing the key and returning to (ignition on) position, the switch seems to be open and causing it to cut out. If I opperate the starter motor then gentle return the key to the (ignition on) position it will not cut out and run however with very little movement of the key in the barrel it can cut the ignition.

It sounds like the ignition barrel is faulty/worn but how would it go from being 100% to poor in a month sitting.

I have sprayed inside the barrel with WD40 and disconnected the car battery so I can fiddle with the key in the barrel to try and clean things up but its still unreliable/ unusable.

Could it be the key that is worn? Maybe the relay under the bonnet (I doubt it though)?

I don't fancy buying a new inition switch (£50)

Any idea's?

[steviejam73]

Just thinking, one thing is the battery has been in and out a few times in the past month and the earth strap is a bit frayed and could do with replacing. Could a poor earth cause this?

[dklawson]

If you are able to cause and correct the situation by careful manipulation of the key the problem is not likely to be associated with an earth strap.

The part of the lock that you can access with WD-40 is just the lock itself. Behind the lock will be an electrical switch with contacts. If your car was in a damp location sitting for a while without running there is the possibility that the switch contacts have corroded. I have not had to replace the ignition switch on a later Mini so others will have to advise you on what steps to take. However, I would start by removing the steering column cowls to take a look at the switch and its wiring. Before taking anything apart, sketch where the wires were connected and/or photograph the back of the switch for reference.

[steviejam73]

I have the cowl off. The thing is the ignition switch and steering lock is all one piece and its bolted to the steering column with security bolts that need drilled off. I can see what ur saying about the limitations of the WD-40 but I'm told ignition switches are a nightmare to disassemble if it's even possible on this particular type. Lots of springs and pins from the barrel.

[dklawson]

Sorry. That's why I said others would have to advise you on how to service the switch itself. The only British cars I have worked on with ignition/steering column locks have had ignition switches that are removable as a cartridge held to the lock assembly by a single small, self tapping screw. That doesn't mean that a similar construction is on your Mini but I would hope that it would be.

See the link below for an ignition lock/switch.
http://www.minimania...7/InvDetail.cfm
Click on the picture to enlarge the image. Note the small Phillips head screw jut before the wires. That should be the only thing holding the switch to the lock. Perhaps there is another one somewhere around the perimeter. Oddly, I did not find a listing for the switch itself without the lock but surely someone must sell one.

[steviejam73]

Hi thanks,

Yes there are two of these screws, one at the top and one at the bottom. Do you think removing these will allow the switch to slide out as a single cartridge and not explode in my hand with some sort of spring mechanism?

[SolarB]

I had a problem with the ignition switch on an earlier car. The switch assembly is removed from the lock by removing the screws but you have to bend the metal tabs back to dismantle and repair the switch itself. When taking the switch apart things do indeed fly out at high speed so I'd take it apart under a cloth if I were you.
Inside the switch you will find 4 round flat copper contacts arranged in a circle. Each contact has a wire on the outside of the switch assembly. There is also a flat copper contact plate nearly the diameter of the whole switch which has bulges on one side. This contact plate sits above the contacts and as the key turns the copper contact plate rotates, making and breaking connections between different contacts. Permanent 12V comes into the switch on a wire and as the key is turned this 12V is connected to the other wires in turn (giving the I,II and III positions).
Inevitably over time the copper contacts wear and the rotating plate fails to make proper contact with the circular contacts. I found a good sanding of the contacts removed the tracks worn into the copper over the years and restored the switch to as good as new (well, nearly).

[dklawson]

Please see the switch in the link below:
http://www.holden.co...hes&pCode=30371

I do not know if that is the "right" one for your Mini but it certainly would not hurt to call Holden and inquire. If it fits your lock assembly this would be an option in case you don't want to disassemble the switch you have... or if parts go flying when you do.

[steviejam73]

Thanks for the info, removed the two screws and the switch just drops out the bottom. Really simple. I have been able to identify that the (2) plate is a little tempermental. I've got it steeping in some light oil now and have played with it to try and clean it up. It seems better and with the meter hooked up takes deliberate manipulation to break the circuit which it should never encounter where its located in the car. Appreciate your input guys.