44 replies to this topic

[RawlinsGTR]

Cheers Shifty, glad you weren't immature in that reply.

minidaves; Erm, thanks. Sure, it probably has been. It just doesn't feel like it every time I go to remove something.

[RawlinsGTR]

Okay. So now I don't know which way to do it. I guess I'll just do it on a slow speed :)

[RawlinsGTR]

Anyone on here got the right sized washer for seating the hub back on properly that they want to post to me for a small sum of money?

I don't have the tools to make one myself, and so far can't find a 50mm outer 25mm inner washer in any shops.

Cheers.

[RawlinsGTR]

That's the split collar, not the washer needed to seat the driveshaft correctly.

[SolarB]

I'll be honest I bought some genuine ones(in a unipart box) and really wasn't impressed. The machining wasn't brilliant, I didn't use them in the end and bought some minispares pattern ones.

I had the same thing from Minispares, one good one and one b****y awful "genuine" one. It took a couple of exchanges to get a decent one. Minispares say the problem is solved but there are certainly a few bad ones around in Unipart boxes.

I've never tried the nut under the upper arm trick. Always just stood on the front tierod and popped the lower joint out (though I'll have a go at the nut trick next time).

[Shifty]

I believe you can use the spacer washer that sits behind the fan for that job?

[lrostoke]

try searching online for m24 and m26 washers, I found a few suppliers googling.

May need a couple to get the thickness.

or ebay

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item896202221d

may need to open an m24 out slightly

Edited by lrostoke, 12 February 2012 - 07:40 PM.

[bmcecosse]

The 'washer' is a load of nonsense - just assemble the thing carefully and turn it to seat the bearings as you nip it up............common sense really. Yes you MUST wedge the top arm up - a chisel is ideal. And yes - do fit new split cones..... And yes - scissor breaker is the only one to use....

[dow62]

Just done one side today as per miniaddicts vid on youtube, differance between out of the bag and lapped in unbelievable.Question is, whats the spring in bottom do ? if shimmed correctly this will be compressed by the seat against hub counterbore. Does the spring take up slight wear in bottom joint ?

Edited by dow62, 12 February 2012 - 10:11 PM.

[bmcecosse]

Yes - I believe the spring is there to take up any slight slack as the parts wear together - to stop it all rattling horribly!

[Cosford Cowboy]

When lapping in ONLY use the fine paste and don't be tempted to use a machine to help, in nearly all cases I have seen that a drill or similar was used the joints where either not round or had pick up on the surface where the little high spots had micro welded together then torn themselves off.

Twaddle, been doing it this way for probably longer than you've been driving........it's how Abingdon did the works minis.

Your'e so old you shouldn't even be driving, you certainly dribble out BS by the tonne... LOL

A safety note here, anyone lapping in ball joints with a piller drill is asking for trouble if it is not done correctly fingers will fall off. This job is much better done by hand, that way you get a better feel for the job and less likely to cause damage to the parts involved.

[Cosford Cowboy]

If the spring wasn't there it wouldn't work as a ball joint, the spring keeps it in tension.

Of course it would still work as a ball joint, the spring applies tension only it doesn't stop it from being a ball joint

[tiger99]

The spring prevents the bottom ball joint from rattling, as it is not always under any vertical load. Set the shimming without the spring, so when correctly torqued up you can move the pin to all extreme positions without using a tool, just fingers. Then take it apart, put the spring in, and retorque. To make sure that the nut goes back to exactly the same place, so it does not become dangerously stiff with the spring in, you really need to be careful with the torque wrench, or even better, scribe a line on the nut, locktab and hub, and make sure they all line up correctly again.

You can't feel the thing properly with the spring in place, and would be likely to set it up too loose, which would not be good, although it is much worse to be too tight, which will lead to a fatigue fracture, and you may be going fast when it happens.

[Cosford Cowboy]

You don't need a washer, never ever used one on any mini I've worked on............if it was needed don't you all think it'd be mentioned in the factory manuals.

I bet you don't use a torque wrench either ?

Its in the Haynes workshop manual and in the Rover service sheets.

[lrostoke]

Not exactly true it is in Haynes, even gives a diagram of the washer to make it.

13 Fit the plain washer over the driveshaft

end. Fit the driveshaft retaining nut and, using

the same procedure as for removal to prevent

the hub rotating, tighten the nut to the

specified torque to seat the shaft in the hub

bearings.


Although I've always been curious about it, I just don't get the point of it. If you've fitted new bearings then the outer races you would have pressed or hammered home anyway so shouldn't really move anymore.
Anything else once you remove the plain washer to fit the tapered washer will just loosen up again ?? so whats the point. Although it does say its to seat the shaft in the hub.
Either way I've got a washer that works so I use it cause it says so :) :)

Edited by lrostoke, 13 February 2012 - 10:33 AM.