45 replies to this topic

[minidave1991-89]

Wow cant believe this threads still going! I've had a look at the bolt and it has 3 dashes like the Mercedes 3 pointed star. I dont really need any parts from minispares at the moment so would halfords or somewhere be the best place to go for a nut?
One other question what does UNF stand for?

Edited by minidave1991-89, 09 February 2012 - 10:06 AM.

[The Matt]

unified fine

[Cosford Cowboy]

Wouldn't the ends of the rod rip through before the bolt sheared? I don't know if that is the correct bolt, but it does suggest one of the lugs will be doing more than the other. I wonder if failures of the subframe end are at least partly down to fatigue from being levered by the arm? A case against more solid arms and bushes???

I have seen tie bars that have been tested to destruction, the flat "clevis" parts fail well before any other part. this is tensile loading to its max. but thewre are also bending stresses under acceleration to be considered, that is the main reason for other areas being stronger than the standard tensile maths would suggest.

[tiger99]

Ethel,

Is the one piece Metro wishbone about the right size to fit a Mini? It would of course need new subframe mounts, and I don't see why these could not be adjustable.

[Ethel]

Can't say I've ever paid that much attention, it obviously fits a Metty which is the nearest you're likely to find

don't look that promising:

http://www.ebay.co.u...2#ht_634wt_1002

[tiger99]

Thanks for posting the picture. It does not look promising because the rear pivot would not be anywhere near the normal Mini position.

[minidave1991-89]

Went to parkers parts and found some nuts but they couldnt tell me what grade the steel was, it was a UNF nut so should that be ok?

[Cosford Cowboy]

Ethel,

Is the one piece Metro wishbone about the right size to fit a Mini? It would of course need new subframe mounts, and I don't see why these could not be adjustable.

There is a few guys around Northampton with 1.8VVTF K series engines fitted and they use MGF or Metro bottom wishbones.

[Cosford Cowboy]

Went to parkers parts and found some nuts but they couldnt tell me what grade the steel was, it was a UNF nut so should that be ok?

I doubt it, the simple fact that they cannot tell you the grade tells me they are simple "chocolate" nuts and should not really be used on a car anywhere, the reasons are simple.

The wrong material if it is inferior will not stretch and hold a tensile load, ie stay tight. you would also get a similar effect with fixings that are too hard, these would be the cheap "chinese" rubbish that have been overhardened to try to compensate for shi* materials used.

[minidave1991-89]

Went to parkers parts and found some nuts but they couldnt tell me what grade the steel was, it was a UNF nut so should that be ok?

I doubt it, the simple fact that they cannot tell you the grade tells me they are simple "chocolate" nuts and should not really be used on a car anywhere, the reasons are simple.

The wrong material if it is inferior will not stretch and hold a tensile load, ie stay tight. you would also get a similar effect with fixings that are too hard, these would be the cheap "chinese" rubbish that have been overhardened to try to compensate for shi* materials used.

So do you suggest i get a nut from say minispares or another mini specialist then?

[dklawson]

I suggest you install the nuts you bought and torque them to the value specified in the manual.

We have beat this topic to death and branched out into parallel areas. The bottom line is, the particular nut you are dealing with is NOT in tensile loading and if it can be torqued to the factory specified value... you will be fine.

[Cosford Cowboy]

I suggest you install the nuts you bought and torque them to the value specified in the manual.

We have beat this topic to death and branched out into parallel areas. The bottom line is, the particular nut you are dealing with is NOT in tensile loading and if it can be torqued to the factory specified value... you will be fine.

All nuts or anything with a thread is in tensile load, this is how the thread maintains its grip on the mating threaded part.

Torque settings are all about applying a tensile load to the fixing to hold it together, if the OP fits a substandard fixing and torques it up and that fixing fails who is responsible ?

1) The person doing the job (under advice) ?
2) The person handing out that advice ?
3) The person who sold the parts in the first place ?

If the torque setting causes the nut (inferior material) to be in the "plastic region" then it will fail with time.

Torque settings are there to maintain the fixing in the "elastic region" of the material a bit like a bungy cord, if you pull it too tight it will fail eventually, if you simply apply a reasonable amount of stretch to the bungy cord it will last you for 20 years or more.

The bolt is no different, the length of time to failure may be, but who knows how long that will be ?

[Cooperman]

Best suggestion would be to go online to Namrick Limited and buy a selection of UNF nuts, washers and bolts. Then you'll know you have the correct grade.

[minidave1991-89]

I suggest you install the nuts you bought and torque them to the value specified in the manual.

We have beat this topic to death and branched out into parallel areas. The bottom line is, the particular nut you are dealing with is NOT in tensile loading and if it can be torqued to the factory specified value... you will be fine.

I havent bought any nuts, this is why i'm asking as i dont want to waste money on unsuitable nuts in this area!

Best suggestion would be to go online to Namrick Limited and buy a selection of UNF nuts, washers and bolts. Then you'll know you have the correct grade.

Cheers cooperman will definately have a look on there.

[Wil_h]

I suggest you install the nuts you bought and torque them to the value specified in the manual.

We have beat this topic to death and branched out into parallel areas. The bottom line is, the particular nut you are dealing with is NOT in tensile loading and if it can be torqued to the factory specified value... you will be fine.

All nuts or anything with a thread is in tensile load, this is how the thread maintains its grip on the mating threaded part.

Torque settings are all about applying a tensile load to the fixing to hold it together, if the OP fits a substandard fixing and torques it up and that fixing fails who is responsible ?

1) The person doing the job (under advice) ?
2) The person handing out that advice ?
3) The person who sold the parts in the first place ?

If the torque setting causes the nut (inferior material) to be in the "plastic region" then it will fail with time.

Torque settings are there to maintain the fixing in the "elastic region" of the material a bit like a bungy cord, if you pull it too tight it will fail eventually, if you simply apply a reasonable amount of stretch to the bungy cord it will last you for 20 years or more.

The bolt is no different, the length of time to failure may be, but who knows how long that will be ?

Have you actually read this thread. Everything you have said has been discussed already. I'm not sure why you're trying to blame someone, what's the point you are making? More scaremongering (lots of it in this thread).

If the nuts you have do not fail when torqued up (in this specific application) then it will not be a problem, arrrrrgggggggg!

This thread has come to an end. There are reasonable arguments for both sides. Please lock it and people can make their own mind up using their own judgement.

Edited by Wil_h, 11 February 2012 - 06:27 PM.