The Rat
#2416
Posted 09 March 2011 - 09:32 PM
and fail with your piston rings with have this problem with a moggie minor rings are naffered
#2417
Posted 10 March 2011 - 01:07 PM
looking good
and fail with your piston rings with have this problem with a moggie minor rings are naffered
eh?
#2418
Posted 10 March 2011 - 01:59 PM
Is that book any different, to tuning the a-series engine by vizard?
#2419
Posted 10 March 2011 - 02:15 PM
more interchangable parts, ie using other cars pistons to increase cc
Photo0505.jpg 72.95K 31 downloads
this shows triumph 1300 73.64mm pistons can be used to gain 1385cc,
my first mini had these fitted.
#2420
Posted 10 March 2011 - 02:22 PM
#2421
Posted 10 March 2011 - 02:30 PM
Im all for the easier to absorb bit... I really struggle with some (err most) of the stuff in the yellow bible, Im going to try and get a copy of this book. I hope Ratty gets a good spread in the mag. And I hope your arm gets better soon.
got mine for a fiver off ebay £1.99 + p&p, get the latest edition you can more up to date.
Edited by camp freddy, 10 March 2011 - 02:31 PM.
#2422
Posted 10 March 2011 - 04:29 PM
chatting to the previous owner of the first engine i fitted he told
me the gearbox had an 850 diff fitted....
Edited by camp freddy, 10 March 2011 - 07:30 PM.
#2423
Posted 21 March 2011 - 01:41 PM
different, adjusted the off side ok, went to adjust the N/S and noticed
the hub was loose, Took off the wheel centre and found that the hub nut
had nearly cut through the split pin AGAIN !!!!!!!. due to the nut working loose
this has resulted in the taper washer and hub nut becoming badly worn.
These I feel should be supplied in the Wheel bearing kits.
I have now ordered a new washer , nut and split pin at a cost of £12.60 incl p&p !!!!!
BE WARNED if you change a front wheel bearing replace the taper washer at least...
#2424
Posted 22 March 2011 - 12:28 PM
Gary
#2425
Posted 23 March 2011 - 10:38 PM
Its worth just checking that the rear face of the drive flange is starting to wear as this will make the hub nut come loose giving you the symptoms you have.
Gary
Not sure what you are refering to , but I will strip it and have a look.
As I have my wrist free now I spent an hour cleaning the floor plates
and bulkhead etc in Ratty, looks a lot better now. the bulkhead was covered
in a layer of oil from when the engine decided to dump a load of oil....
#2426
Posted 26 March 2011 - 12:52 PM
Its worth just checking that the rear face of the drive flange is starting to wear as this will make the hub nut come loose giving you the symptoms you have.
Gary
Not sure what you are refering to , but I will strip it and have a look.
As I have my wrist free now I spent an hour cleaning the floor plates
and bulkhead etc in Ratty, looks a lot better now. the bulkhead was covered
in a layer of oil from when the engine decided to dump a load of oil....
checked the hub over loks ok, so put it all together, only problem ordered the
wrong nut.... needed the metric one...
On the plus side just received my gasket parcel from Minispares,,,, Time to start
re-building Ratty's old engine....
#2427
Posted 28 March 2011 - 09:28 PM
#2428
Posted 31 March 2011 - 09:29 PM
What happened to all the bits of metal from your worn washer and nut?? may be wise to replace the bearing while you have it in bits.
Not long replaced it, the bearings are ok. check the nut today and it is still tight....
#2429
Posted 31 March 2011 - 09:46 PM
I reduced the front neg camber last weekend ,this caused the 'Toe in' to increase
dramatically, But I didn't realised how much it has changed , hence the shark toothing.
So this evening I decided to adjust the toe..... After a lot of thought i decided on
what I was going to use..... Two bit of wooden battening, two luggage straps and
a tape measure...
First I strapped a piece of batten to each wheel ,half way up allowing to project
in front of the car, I then measure a distance from the front of the tyre out
along the batten ( I measured 300mm but 500mm would be better), Then I measured
across the front of the car (against the tyre) and noted the distance, then I measured
across at the 300mm mark a noted that distance. this was about 15mm different.
Needs to be about 1.5mm narrower at the front, so I adjusted the track rod ends
bit by bit , each time I adjusted I rolled the car so the tyre would re-set....
To him for a spin ,,, Wow what a difference , loads better..
#2430
Posted 01 April 2011 - 08:46 PM
carbon build up, can't beleive how much there is for less than two years use
before
after
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