14 replies to this topic

[BigDave99]

Sorry guys I know there is loads of stuff on this but can't find a definitive answer. What oil would you suggest for a 2000 MPI?
Cheers
Dave

[RayBoogs]

The manual would say 10w40 which would be ok. But I personally think and so do most that 20w50 is the best, (I use halfords), because it offers the best compromise between a engine oil and a transmission oil which is what you need with the A-Series

[bcjames]

I use a 10w40 semi-synthetic in mine, changed often.

[BigDave99]

Thanks lads, have been using 10w40 part but might give the 20w50 a go.

[bogstandard]

Hi Dave,

It always makes me smile that with all the inside out knowledge of Minis out there nobody has even given me a definitive answer to this! I have in the past used several known and trusted Mini specific garages and been given different answers and told not to use xyz oil. I would need to check but I think the Rover manual actually says part synthetic 15w40!

If it's any help I have stuck with 10w40.

Paul

[samsfern]

I'm a great lover of 20/50 due to the gearbox sharing the same oil.

[jamesmpi]

Answer is.....there is no definitive answer. It doesn't matter what the manual states people will alway buy according to personal preference or on the advise from someone else.

Me personally is use 20w50. Why? Because that was what the garage who rebuilt my engine recommended to me (and no it wasn't rebuilt because of having the wrong oil in it ;) )

[nev_payne]

Using mineral 20w50, will be going to Unipart 15w40 oil change after next.... so.. next week then.

Have it on good authority to stay clear of synthetic as it lacks a particular compound - ZDDP (Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates), but can be added as an addition, much like how you would find fuel additives. To quote Wiki:

Crankcase oils with reduced ZDDP have been cited as causing damage to, or failure of, classic/collector car flat tappet camshafts and lifters which undergo very high boundary layer pressures and/or shear forces at their contact faces, and in other regions such as big-end/main bearings, and piston rings and pins. Roller camshafts are more commonly used to reduce camshaft lobe friction in modern engines.

Source

and example additive product by Redline.

[Sprocket]

Full synthetic 10w40 Motorcycle oil suitable for shared wet clutch transmission. The best of everything.

[nev_payne]

Well I certainly didn't expect that one Sprocket, any particular brand/ expected price?

[Sprocket]

Any sort of full synthetic will set you back at the very least £50, if it doesn't its not that good. I've used Motul 300V 4T before now, but i've been looking at the Millers ZFS, £60 for 5L but then again, my engine is not exactly standard

perhaps out of the budget for a general run around though!

20w50 is way to thick for the cold weather. The most damage is done when the engine oil is cold. a 10W50 would be more appropriate, but not that common. I've always use the 10w40 untill in recent years when the trendy 20w50 'mini specific' oils have been markted. went back to 10w40 before I melted that piston, and i'll be running in the replacements with 10w40 mineral, before changing to full synthetic.

the 50 oils might help the transmission but don't help the engine. What you loose in viscosity going to a 40 synthetic is outweighed bu the better shear strength of the synthetic.

to be honest most go with the general concensus, rather than read the numbers in a hand book.

Edited by Sprocket, 10 January 2012 - 12:06 AM.

[R1minimagic]

It's nonsense about fully synthetic not having ZDDP, who told you that?!

[R1minimagic]

See Nevs post above

[BigDave99]

Thanks for all the input guys, have gone for 20w50. Appreciate all your advice.

[Phil-R]

Running 20w50 for the first time, but as its got colder, outside, gear changes have gotten crunchier when engine has not warmed up.