9 replies to this topic

[Domlin]

Hi there guys...

Having some electrical problems with my Thirty... My rear lights, instrument lights, radio, mood lighting (not standard obviously ), indicators/hazards, were all playing up... I could never reproduce these problems and usually jiggling the fuse box fixed the problems and they wouldn't come back for a few days... or never come back at all in some cases...

So in an attempt to fix these problems I replaced every spade connector that connects to the fuse box, and I also cleaned the fuse box up with electrical contact cleaner... I replaced everything in the exact same way and for a while everything was perfect, but recently things have been playing up again.

I have an idea that its actually the fuse box itself so I am looking to replace it. To save myself from spending £10-15 on a mini 4 way fuse box, I would like to modernise it and buy a cheapy 8 way Blade Fuse box (£3-ish).

I'm trying to figure out how the fuse box in my mini works, because I have 2 spades on one side and one coming off the other in some cases, but there is no pattern and the haynes isnt helping. My idea is as long as everything is still connected to everything that it originally was, things should still work?

What are your thoughts on this

Cheers,
Dom

[AVV IT]

The classic mini fuse box is notorious for corrosion and causing all sorts of quirky electrical problems like those you describe, when it does get corroded. Remove the two screws that hold it in place then carefully pull it away from the bulk head with all the wires still attached, then have a look at the back of the unit. If it's covered in a white/green powdery scale then it needs replacing, cleaning it up doesn't really help (trust me I've tried).

If you have a later model with foam soundproofing fitted to the bulkhead, then cut this away around the fuse box too. It tends to absorb any rain water that gets into the engine bay and speeds up the corrosion even more. If you do replace it with a non standard blade fuse box though, then be aware that blade fuses are rated differently to glass fuses, so they are not just a straight swap.

Edited by AVV IT, 31 December 2011 - 02:09 PM.

[Domlin]

Hi there :)

Thanks very much for that, really helpful :) There was me thinking that as the fuse box is such a simple device that it couldn't fail, but I stand corrected :) I think I will invest in a new one, do you know the best place to get one? Ive looked on ebay/minispares/minisport...

Thanks

[sledgehammer]

I replaced mine with a 8 way blade box

some of the older fuse boxes had a rivet holding the fuse clamp thingy , which once loose is a pain

take plenty of photo's , and trim back the insulation and make sure the colours are visible in the photo

if you find the resistive wire above the fuse box , why not replace with a proper wire and run it down to a nice new 12v coil

also a bit of Vaseline in the back of the fuse box may extend its life

[AVV IT]

Like most classic mini electrical components, I believe that the so called "genuine" items were actually "Lucas" items. Therefore so long as you get hold of a genuine Lucas item, then I suppose it doesn't really matter where you get it from. (personally I'd always buy from minispares though, as you tend to know what your getting from them. )

I had huge problems with rotting fuse boxes when I first owned my mini, it went through three fuse boxes before I realised that the foam soundproofing was causing the problem. Rover were still around back then and I got my first replacement fuse box for £70!! I didn't realise at the time that it was just a £15 Lucas fuse box, in £55 Rover branded cardboard box!!!

[zef]

I had huge problems with rotting fuse boxes when I first owned my mini, it went through three fuse boxes before I realised that the foam soundproofing was causing the problem.

Which is why I ALWAYS pull the horrible stuff off. Who ever came up with the idea of using foam wants shooting. I mean, they might as well have just put a tank of water in for the electrics to sit in. Not to mention the water it retains rotting your bulkhead.

OK I'm going to calm down now....Foam for bathrooms and pot washing NOT for bulkheads.

Edited by zef, 31 December 2011 - 05:43 PM.

[craigr91]

Someone did post at one point converting from glass to blade fuses... Ill have a look when I get home am on my phone atm. Or maybe someone will be along with a link :)

[AVV IT]

Someone did post at one point converting from glass to blade fuses... Ill have a look when I get home am on my phone atm. Or maybe someone will be along with a link :)

It's been covered here a number of times, with various different ideas on which is the best rated blade fuse to use in replacement of the glass type. The best advice seems to be to stick with glass.

[matt615]

The best advice seems to be to stick with glass.

Yes, if your fuse box is dodgy I always think it's better to fit a new original type one rather than changing to blade fuses.

When people have problems with their fuse boxes, they seem to think it's because glass fuses are rubbish and so they want to upgrade to blade fuses. In reality, their fuse box is causing problems because it is 20 or so years old and rusting inside, and all that is needed is a like for like replacement. A blade fuse box would cause similar problems if it had been fitted in a car for 20 years.

[Mini66]

Where is the fuse box in a. Classic mini?
Also any tips on how to get to the horn on the steering wheel?