Front blade is at 45deg and the rear blade (before it snapped) was pretty much flat, I am going to turn it to about 15deg when I fit the new one tonight.
Birdmans Monte Carlo Build
Started by
Birdman
, Dec 13 2011 10:55 AM
384 replies to this topic
#226
Monte Busa
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Posted 31 May 2012 - 03:04 AM
snapped? Was it a Zed's-supplied blade?
#227
cptkirk
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Camshaft & Stage Two Head
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Posted 31 May 2012 - 06:01 AM
Yes it was, in their defence they replaced it without quibble and I have a lot more weight in the rear of mine. That said if it isnt up to the job then why was it used in the first place?? I am on the look out for a more robust solution, just havent found one yet......
#228
Birdman
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Posted 31 May 2012 - 11:53 AM
I'm thinking if I add more aluminum to the underside of the car it will smooth out air flow. What do you guys think? Anyone else ever done this?
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#229
Monte Busa
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Posted 31 May 2012 - 05:29 PM
I know Chris's latest Monte racer has a full flat floor, with a large front splitter and a rear diffuser, and he say's it works nicely to add downforce. Mine's getting a similar but more aggressive treatment.
I'm thinking if I add more aluminum to the underside of the car it will smooth out air flow. What do you guys think? Anyone else ever done this?
Edited by Monte Busa, 31 May 2012 - 05:29 PM.
#230
Monte Busa
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Posted 31 May 2012 - 05:30 PM
They probably used non-spring steel or didn't heat treat properly after machining...hmmm...
Yes it was, in their defence they replaced it without quibble and I have a lot more weight in the rear of mine. That said if it isnt up to the job then why was it used in the first place?? I am on the look out for a more robust solution, just havent found one yet......
#231
Birdman
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Posted 06 July 2012 - 03:17 PM
It's been pretty dead here lately. I had a bare spot on my trophy shelf so I decided to make a new trophy. This is what 11 grand with no oil looks like. Seams my oiling system couldn't keep up with cornering "G"s, or maybe I was just pulling to many "G"s for the oil. This was the end result.
So I bought a complete Hayabusa from a repo dealer, pulled the engine, (Which was spotless) and parted the bike out for enough to recover my purchase price and pay for the new Carillo rods. I also got a new complete wet sump system from Down's engineering, A oil pan designed specifically for car road racing, windage tray, and a really neat oil bypass kit that eliminates the stock filter. The adapter screws onto the stock filter boss, then sends the oil to a remote 2 qt oil filter, then the oil cooler, then back to the hex plug in the end of the main oil galley. I also got a low pressure (20 psi) idiot light to alert me of any problems when cornering.
So I'm just waiting to get my engine back and I can get back on the track.
So I bought a complete Hayabusa from a repo dealer, pulled the engine, (Which was spotless) and parted the bike out for enough to recover my purchase price and pay for the new Carillo rods. I also got a new complete wet sump system from Down's engineering, A oil pan designed specifically for car road racing, windage tray, and a really neat oil bypass kit that eliminates the stock filter. The adapter screws onto the stock filter boss, then sends the oil to a remote 2 qt oil filter, then the oil cooler, then back to the hex plug in the end of the main oil galley. I also got a low pressure (20 psi) idiot light to alert me of any problems when cornering.
So I'm just waiting to get my engine back and I can get back on the track.
#232
Monte Busa
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Posted 06 July 2012 - 06:16 PM
It's been pretty dead here lately. I had a bare spot on my trophy shelf so I decided to make a new trophy. This is what 11 grand with no oil looks like. Seams my oiling system couldn't keep up with cornering "G"s, or maybe I was just pulling to many "G"s for the oil. This was the end result.
So I bought a complete Hayabusa from a repo dealer, pulled the engine, (Which was spotless) and parted the bike out for enough to recover my purchase price and pay for the new Carillo rods. I also got a new complete wet sump system from Down's engineering, A oil pan designed specifically for car road racing, windage tray, and a really neat oil bypass kit that eliminates the stock filter. The adapter screws onto the stock filter boss, then sends the oil to a remote 2 qt oil filter, then the oil cooler, then back to the hex plug in the end of the main oil galley. I also got a low pressure (20 psi) idiot light to alert me of any problems when cornering.
So I'm just waiting to get my engine back and I can get back on the track.
Wow Steve. ...just goes to illustrate how important oiling is on the 'busa motor and why Mike is so religious about eliminating weak spots. Man am I glad I did his dry sump system now along with the Carillo's. He's changed the wetsump oil routing a bit since I last saw it - it looks a bit more like my dry sump as far as main connections now. I'm suspicious that the rod failure might not have been completely a result of oiling issues - looks like metal overstress based on how it sheared off at the webbing in the big end cap. Just FYI though, 20PSI as an idiot light threshold will likely be too high with the engine at low RPMs (idling and off idle)....these bike engines have very low oil pressure when they're not under load. Did you add Mike's overdrive oil pump sprocket too?
By the way, I'm plumbing my dry sump this next week so I'll be sure to upload some pics when I'm done. I got the throttle, the cockpit adjustable sway bars, and the chain / final drive installed this week too, so I'm making progress.
Edited by Monte Busa, 06 July 2012 - 06:20 PM.
#233
Birdman
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Posted 06 July 2012 - 10:02 PM
Hey Aric, good to see you making progress also.
Yes I know about low idle pressure, I'm going to put the light on a toggle switch. Yes I got Mikes bigger drive sprocket also.
If you look at the other rod bearings you can see where they were not getting oil either.
Now, get that thing together real fast. Sometime the end of Sept I'm going on a road trip. We're heading down to Thunderhill raceway for a track day, then down to Sears Point for a track day, then down to Laguna Seca for a track day. 3 tracks in 6 days. You ought to join us.
Yes I know about low idle pressure, I'm going to put the light on a toggle switch. Yes I got Mikes bigger drive sprocket also.
If you look at the other rod bearings you can see where they were not getting oil either.
Now, get that thing together real fast. Sometime the end of Sept I'm going on a road trip. We're heading down to Thunderhill raceway for a track day, then down to Sears Point for a track day, then down to Laguna Seca for a track day. 3 tracks in 6 days. You ought to join us.
#234
Monte Busa
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Posted 09 July 2012 - 09:57 PM
...man, that would be a fun trip - if only you weren't 2400 away from me! If I really plan well, a trip next year might be in the cards though. Right now I'm realy pushing to get done by the end of September for and end-of-year track day weekend at Grattan Raceway with my Lotus Club buddies...
#235
Birdman
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Posted 14 July 2012 - 01:03 PM
Well I'm still waiting for my new engine to be finished. The Suzuki shop has beed backed up rear bad being summer and all and they when my turn finally came they discovered they didn't have the gaskets. So I'm still waiting.
#236
Monte Busa
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Posted 16 July 2012 - 01:16 PM
At least you have a Suzuki shop nearby!
Well I'm still waiting for my new engine to be finished. The Suzuki shop has beed backed up rear bad being summer and all and they when my turn finally came they discovered they didn't have the gaskets. So I'm still waiting.
#237
Birdman
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Posted 16 July 2012 - 02:04 PM
At least you have a Suzuki shop nearby!
Well I'm still waiting for my new engine to be finished. The Suzuki shop has beed backed up rear bad being summer and all and they when my turn finally came they discovered they didn't have the gaskets. So I'm still waiting.
Not really near by, 40 miles one way. But better than nothing.
#238
Johanmini
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Posted 17 July 2012 - 01:34 PM
This piston isn't damaged due to oil starvation I would say, looks like the stock internals just weren't strong enough and snapped...are you fitting upgraded parts this time? What a bummer that it's broken like that!
I have an oil light wich warns me under 40 psi/over 4k rpm, under 4k rpm I have an additional 7psi OIL warning. I am always driving with my oilpressure in sight, if there is some sort of warning light (for instance due to slow shifting/ pressing clutch pedal without reving or shifting) I can instantly check how high/low the pressure is after the shift.
If you don't set the rpm level, you will experience lots of lights coming up without any real reason for it, by pressing the clutch when decelerating for a traffic light for instance. I would also set the psi higher as 20, in the lower revs the engine won't die due to low oilpressure, when pushing the car it will. For instance on 6k rpm or higher 21psi is insanely low and the engine won't live trhrough it, but you won't receive an idiot light...When you do it like I have you can more accurately set the light at critical points for fast warninglights when you need them the most!
Good luck with the new engine, hopefully you will be able to drive it to the limit again asap
edit: I just read you are fitting the Carillio's, not bad of an idea I would see, maybe fit turbo pistons with it? The adjusted wet sump should be the best way to go...so I am told by my tuner. With dry sump they experienced equally lots of damages as with standard wet sump...they mostly fit these adjusted wet sumps and are really glad with it
I have an oil light wich warns me under 40 psi/over 4k rpm, under 4k rpm I have an additional 7psi OIL warning. I am always driving with my oilpressure in sight, if there is some sort of warning light (for instance due to slow shifting/ pressing clutch pedal without reving or shifting) I can instantly check how high/low the pressure is after the shift.
If you don't set the rpm level, you will experience lots of lights coming up without any real reason for it, by pressing the clutch when decelerating for a traffic light for instance. I would also set the psi higher as 20, in the lower revs the engine won't die due to low oilpressure, when pushing the car it will. For instance on 6k rpm or higher 21psi is insanely low and the engine won't live trhrough it, but you won't receive an idiot light...When you do it like I have you can more accurately set the light at critical points for fast warninglights when you need them the most!
Good luck with the new engine, hopefully you will be able to drive it to the limit again asap
edit: I just read you are fitting the Carillio's, not bad of an idea I would see, maybe fit turbo pistons with it? The adjusted wet sump should be the best way to go...so I am told by my tuner. With dry sump they experienced equally lots of damages as with standard wet sump...they mostly fit these adjusted wet sumps and are really glad with it
Edited by Johanmini, 17 July 2012 - 01:39 PM.
#239
Birdman
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Posted 17 July 2012 - 01:49 PM
All 4 rod journals on the crank were burned so is was for sure oil starvation. I also have a new low oil pressure light that will come on at 20 PSI. I hooked it through a toggle switch so I can turn it off for street driving or idling.
#240
Johanmini
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Stage One Kit Fitted
Posted 17 July 2012 - 01:52 PM
All 4 rod journals on the crank were burned so is was for sure oil starvation. I also have a new low oil pressure light that will come on at 20 PSI. I hooked it through a toggle switch so I can turn it off for street driving or idling.
were you driving without any oilpressure sensor at all previously? Or did you just not see the pressure getting lower? / Level too low? (just curious so I know what to be careful for)
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